jdub;1186126 said:
I was under the impression the peak/fall off occurred a bit earlier with the PT67 vs the 35R?
suprahero;1186242 said:
I wouldn't think the peak or fall off would be quicker with the pt67, but I could be wrong.
suprahero;1175486 said:
I thought the 35r was causing it since I"d replaced everything else, so I bought a pt67 from a local guy here. It does the exact same thing, only sooner now.
^^^ This is where I got the impression.
Any idea on the diameter of the turbine wheels?
If it's the cam timing (overlap), accuracy and details are very important. It will be a balancing act to adjust to a point where back pressure doesn't cause reversion and your dynamic compression doesn't go up to the point where you blow the motor.
What you posted in your build thread on cam timing:
suprahero;976492 said:
The cam are set as follows. Exhaust +8 degrees and the intake is -4degrees.
The car has NEVER ran lean under boost. It has ran lean under normal driving before but this was after the fact. I ran it home lean on purpose to keep as much smoke as possible from exiting my exhaust so the people behind me could see. I was told it would be fine as long as it wasn't lean under boost. The person that told me this can chime in if he wants too.......or not.
Red, the motor had roughly five hundred miles on it when it started smoking, but it was very little smoking at first. It wasn't until we got past Louisiana that it started smoking horribly.
What would the AFR's need to get to, to detonate the engine like it did?
Looking at your cam specs, you eliminated all overlap (actually went 2 deg negative overlap) with the above settings, assuming these adjustments were made from an installed "zero" (degreed) reference...your dynamic compression shot way up as a result. I would not go back to these settings.
Jay - You are going to need to get an accurate degree on your cams.
It is imperative you know that the lobe centers are (exh & int cam) when the motor is at TDC before you do any test runs. Once you get the reference points, that is the cam's installed "zero"...every adjustment must be made from that reference. It is very possible your overlap is even larger with the adjustable cam gears pointing straight up. For review:
http://www.enginelogics.com/camdegree.html
This should help: Your BC 272 intake cam has an installed centerline of 110.00 degrees ATDC. The exhaust cam has an installed centerline of 118.00 degrees BTDC. This is calculated from the specs you provided...reality may be +/- as much as 1 deg in your 1JZ head.
What kind of crank damper are you using? It would be a good idea to check your damper once you figure out where TDC is. The damper index should be pointing at "zero" on the scale above the crank. This will be useful to set initial ignition timing after you do all this...just add/subtract degrees based on where the damper index is pointing with the #1 cylinder at TDC.
Once you have the installed zero, you need to reduce the overlap...advance the exhaust cam and/or retard the intake cam. Personally, I would start with E+2/I-2 from the reference, then retard the intake cam 1st (in 1-2 degree increments) after you see what the 1st run does. After a -2 deg change on the intake cam, go to the exhaust cam and do the same thing (in + 1-2 degree increments). Use caution going smaller than 2-4 degs of overlap.
I highly suggest you write all the results down for future reference