Leaking from turbo oil line HELP PLEASE 7mgte

aloshan

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
Hi Guys

So I need some urgent help. Ive installed my new turbo , took me quite some time to remove the old one and fit the new one back in , but now when I start the car oil pours from the actual fitting from the block to the turbo oil line.

I used this kit :

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270947047694?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648

p1833409_1.jpg


The flange itself is triangular shaped with two holes that slots on to the block. Ive tightened the turbo oil line fitting and those two nuts on either side but its still leaking. It doesn't drip it literally gushes out. Even if I didn't tighten the oil line properly it should leak not pour oil.

-Why could this be?

-Is it possible I could of cross threaded causing a leak?

-Is this a common problem with the 7m

Its really difficult to get to since the turbo is now installed(and im certainly not removing the turbo again as it took me hours to put back on),so its taken me hours to tighten.

Help please , just did a whole slew of mods so my car has been off the road for the past month and this is the only thing holding it back.


Thanks in advance
 
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J

joel903

New Member
Apr 6, 2005
314
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Conover,NC
If I'm not mistaken I think there's some copper crush washers that goes on with the fitting. Did you remember to install those?
 
Suprapowaz!(2)

Suprapowaz!(2)

New Member
Apr 10, 2006
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San Antonio, Tx.
Yes, you need copper washers.

EDIT: Correction, copper washer are only used on the turbo feed line that uses a banjo bolt to bolt onto the turbo itself. They supply a gasket for the flange that bolts to the block. If you used that gasket they supplied, and it's tightened enough I can't understand why it's pouring oil from that area. Did it feel like you crossthreaded it when you were tightening it?

Take the oil line off and inspect it for any damage.
 
Last edited:
aloshan

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
Suprapowaz!(2);1833418 said:
Yes, you need copper washers.

EDIT: Correction, copper washer are only used on the turbo feed line that uses a banjo bolt to bolt onto the turbo itself. They supply a gasket for the flange that bolts to the block. If you used that gasket they supplied, and it's tightened enough I can't understand why it's pouring oil from that area. Did it feel like you crossthreaded it when you were tightening it?

Take the oil line off and inspect it for any damage.
Click to expand...

yup its going to be a bitch of a job with the turbo in the way but I guess i have to remove the oil line to inspect it.

No it didnt feel like I cross threaded it but to leak that much oil maybe I did.

Any tips on removing oil line to make it easier(took me almost 2 hours previously) ?
 
aloshan

aloshan

night ryda
Dec 7, 2010
349
0
0
Sydney, Australia, Australia
leaking , well pouring rather ,not from the banjo bolt but from the block itself to the left of the banjo bolt(i believe you called it oil drain).

Ive circled where its leaking from

p1833428_1.jpg


Didn't use copper washers at all!!! (did the removal and installation in a space of about a week so I forgot)Could this contribute to the leaking?
 
M

Maple191

Member
Mar 21, 2012
317
0
16
Toronto
The picture you showed does not use copper washers. The Copper washers that the other guys are talking about are for the Banjol bolt on the oil feed line, next to the oil drain in the picture. The part you circled is the drain, it just uses the paper gasket, its possible you didnt remove all the old gasket. When I did mine last year it was BAKED to the block. Take it off and try to scrape it with a razerblade/head gasket removal tool. If you just installed a soft line kit, this will be easy if you have a hoist. IIRC you may have to remove the engine mount out of the way.
 
KicknAsphlt

KicknAsphlt

Occasional Peruser
Nov 20, 2005
585
2
18
Denver, Colorado, United States
www.jkbweb.net
If it's the flange on the oil drain fitting on the block, either you didn't use a gasket at all, or it could be a warped flange. You'll have to take it off and inspect it. I would get a can of 'The Right Stuff' and make your own gasket with that; put a decent bead around the flange mating surface (make sure you put the bead around the drain port) then put the fitting back on the block. Tighten the bolts until you can see the RTV start to squish, then stop....leave overnight, then cinch down the next day.
 
J

Jay C

New Member
Sep 30, 2010
283
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0
Omaha, NE
Not sure if your gasket had it or not but the stock Toyota gasket has a raised circle in the gasket to help seal it. Also like the others have said make sure you remove all of the old gasket. This was the biggest PITA of the whole turbo swap i did. I removed the two studs (but you dont have to) and went to town on it with some razor's. If you go this route make sure you have a fresh blade and hold it at an angle to the block.
 
M

Maple191

Member
Mar 21, 2012
317
0
16
Toronto
HKS_TRD;1833517 said:
I can't believe no one has diagnosed this problem correctly. The reason its leaking is because it isn't sealing.
Click to expand...
Look back at my first post it says that the Old Gasket is most likely still there.
 
M

Maple191

Member
Mar 21, 2012
317
0
16
Toronto
KicknAsphlt;1833524 said:
That's why I didn't tell him to crank it down and to tighten just until it starts to press and let it cure first.
Click to expand...
Please try this im seriously waiting the end results.
 
H

HKS_TRD

Active Member
Jul 21, 2007
998
0
36
Australia
Maple191;1833571 said:
Sarcasm, or you just relized you missed reading other posts.
Click to expand...
I think you completely missed the point of my post. Its obvious to everyone else. Lets not have another Quality Aloshan thread cause an argument, he has already posted the exact same question in two other forums to achieve that.
 
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