MY REVIEW OF KSRACING INTAKE MANIFOLDS FOR 7MGTE
I have this FFIM installed now. It does take modification to fit this monster of an intake. The plenum sits low in the engine bay because the runners are not curved and perpendicular to the head. Here is what I needed to do to get it to fit.
- It hits the brake booster. I assume this is because the builder is not farmilar with left hand drive setups. I was pretty upset at first but this isn't that bad of a fix. I just cut off the back corner of the plenum and had an aluminum plate welded to the cut out. It actually turned out very nice looking and shouldn't effect flow. The welds were ground down and polished. The welder had to remove the anodization but it polished up nicely afterwards.
- It hits the alternator in the stock location even though I was told it clears the alternator. It hits the alternator WITH a relocation bracket. That was upsetting at first too but I figured that out also. With the relocation bracket (thanks Brent) that Sethron sells I can pull the alternator directly against the block but this still isn't enough room. What I needed to do is cut the tabs off of the aluminum timing plate cover. Those two tabs hold the plastic timing gear cover in place but there are enough bolts in other places for it to not be an issue. The plastic tabs must be cut off of the timing gear plate also. I used the smallest possible alternator belt. I have the part number and will post later. The auto parts store sells them in 1/4" increments. Now the alternator fits but the stock tensioner bracket is no were close to fitting. I modified the stock bracket so its much shorter. Just cut it up and drilled a new mounting hole. With the new tensioner and a short belt the alterantor sits 1/4" off the block with the belt tight. And yes, I kept the A/C!
REVISED: A/C BELT WAS OUT OF ALIGNMENT. A/C COMPRESSOR WAS REMOVED AND ALTERNATOR WAS LOWERED WITH BRACKET.
-The flange has a hole for the coolant to flow to the TB and ICV. It is not a nipple. If you need it, welded a nipple on or do like I did and weld it shut.
- The Q45 throttle body will touch the body of the engine bay just forward of the drivers side strut tower. This is a big problem especially if you have rubber engine mounts. Mine are solid and it was too close for comfort for me. I used a big hammer to push in the body to get 1/2" clearance for the TB.
-This intake manifold does not include a throttle cable mounting bracket. I got one from Sethron for $25 shipped and had it welded on. I used a $3.50 throttle body cable from a 1995 Camry at the junk yard and its plenty long enough.
-You need to relocate the fuse box, ICV, ignitor, resistor and battery. The ICV, ignitor and resister barely fit, but fit under the plenum. Alot of wires had to be cut and extended because the main run of the wiring harness sits much lower under the runners.
-The flange is much thicker than the stock flange. I needed new M8-1.25x30mm bolts to mount it to the head.
-Of course you will need new piping from the intercooler to the throttle body. I ran 3" from the top of the driver side of my 24"x12"x3" intercooler, under the headlight and to the TB. I installed my blow off valve flange, GM intake temperature sensor, and ICV source port on the piping. I used a 3" 90degree, 3"45 degree and 3" to 3.5" couplers. Running these under the STOCK headlights might not work, my headlights don't go down as much so I have more clearance.
So now it fits and i have 1/8" to 1/2" clearance between the brake booster, alternator, strut tower, TB, and brake booster. Very tight fit, but it fits. This might be a lot of trouble to go through for some people but it was a challenge for me and I was determined.
This is what I ordered: left hand drive, no alternator relocation, ICV flange on bottom, Q45 TB flange, 3 small vacuum ports, 2 large vacuum ports, polished for $475 shipped.
Will post pictures soon.
Dennis
I have this FFIM installed now. It does take modification to fit this monster of an intake. The plenum sits low in the engine bay because the runners are not curved and perpendicular to the head. Here is what I needed to do to get it to fit.
- It hits the brake booster. I assume this is because the builder is not farmilar with left hand drive setups. I was pretty upset at first but this isn't that bad of a fix. I just cut off the back corner of the plenum and had an aluminum plate welded to the cut out. It actually turned out very nice looking and shouldn't effect flow. The welds were ground down and polished. The welder had to remove the anodization but it polished up nicely afterwards.
- It hits the alternator in the stock location even though I was told it clears the alternator. It hits the alternator WITH a relocation bracket. That was upsetting at first too but I figured that out also. With the relocation bracket (thanks Brent) that Sethron sells I can pull the alternator directly against the block but this still isn't enough room. What I needed to do is cut the tabs off of the aluminum timing plate cover. Those two tabs hold the plastic timing gear cover in place but there are enough bolts in other places for it to not be an issue. The plastic tabs must be cut off of the timing gear plate also. I used the smallest possible alternator belt. I have the part number and will post later. The auto parts store sells them in 1/4" increments. Now the alternator fits but the stock tensioner bracket is no were close to fitting. I modified the stock bracket so its much shorter. Just cut it up and drilled a new mounting hole. With the new tensioner and a short belt the alterantor sits 1/4" off the block with the belt tight. And yes, I kept the A/C!
REVISED: A/C BELT WAS OUT OF ALIGNMENT. A/C COMPRESSOR WAS REMOVED AND ALTERNATOR WAS LOWERED WITH BRACKET.
-The flange has a hole for the coolant to flow to the TB and ICV. It is not a nipple. If you need it, welded a nipple on or do like I did and weld it shut.
- The Q45 throttle body will touch the body of the engine bay just forward of the drivers side strut tower. This is a big problem especially if you have rubber engine mounts. Mine are solid and it was too close for comfort for me. I used a big hammer to push in the body to get 1/2" clearance for the TB.
-This intake manifold does not include a throttle cable mounting bracket. I got one from Sethron for $25 shipped and had it welded on. I used a $3.50 throttle body cable from a 1995 Camry at the junk yard and its plenty long enough.
-You need to relocate the fuse box, ICV, ignitor, resistor and battery. The ICV, ignitor and resister barely fit, but fit under the plenum. Alot of wires had to be cut and extended because the main run of the wiring harness sits much lower under the runners.
-The flange is much thicker than the stock flange. I needed new M8-1.25x30mm bolts to mount it to the head.
-Of course you will need new piping from the intercooler to the throttle body. I ran 3" from the top of the driver side of my 24"x12"x3" intercooler, under the headlight and to the TB. I installed my blow off valve flange, GM intake temperature sensor, and ICV source port on the piping. I used a 3" 90degree, 3"45 degree and 3" to 3.5" couplers. Running these under the STOCK headlights might not work, my headlights don't go down as much so I have more clearance.
So now it fits and i have 1/8" to 1/2" clearance between the brake booster, alternator, strut tower, TB, and brake booster. Very tight fit, but it fits. This might be a lot of trouble to go through for some people but it was a challenge for me and I was determined.
This is what I ordered: left hand drive, no alternator relocation, ICV flange on bottom, Q45 TB flange, 3 small vacuum ports, 2 large vacuum ports, polished for $475 shipped.
Will post pictures soon.
Dennis
Last edited:
just waiting to hear back about shipping. also if you noticed he has a us spaec listed now too
