hey guys i am getting code 52 again very often, i did the rewire a few months ago and it great for a month then i started getting the code every now and then. I did some more researching and i found some people are grounding the sheild wire and some say don't do it, i have mine grounded. now if my eletrical system was noisy wouldn't that make my knocksensors get interference through the wiring? maybe i should unground the sheilded wire? lets here some thoughts on this thanks
knock knock
- Thread starter viper92086
- Start date
I did ground the wire when i first got them, worked great then i arced my battery to my radiator, after, knock sensor code would come on. I tried and tried and nothing seemed to work. I then took off the ground and no more code. so i don't know. preferably, you would want to ground just one side like Y said.
damn grounded both sides, theres my mistake right there, i guess i will cut off the engine side this weekend and see how it goes thanks
well i started getting code 52 again so i found some more thinnet wire are work and rewired everything and the same thing is happening. could my sensor just be going bad? i get this code like every couple days. my setup is a na-t with gte electronics so i only have 1 knock sensor. I have the two knock sensor wires of the gte ecu soldered together and connected to that single KS wire leading to the engine. my connections are about 1" from the ecu if that matters. I have also tried two different KS connectors all with the same problem. So how often do these KS go bad? and when do they go bad is it consistent? or sporatic like mine? thanks
another thing i was just thinking.. could my car just have bad grounds? maybe i should get something like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/APEX...021QQitemZ310012180386QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
You won't see any results with the ground stabalizer.. if anything you'll just get first hand experience with the placebo effect.
It can't hurt swapping out knock sensors.
It can't hurt swapping out knock sensors.
yea i'll give it try since i got a spare from jacob's partout. i assume the cressida KS is the same since its the same motor?
I really don't see any reason why it wouldn't be. Give it a shot.
You're NA-T on GTE electronics right? Do you have two knock sensors or are they wired together as one?
You're NA-T on GTE electronics right? Do you have two knock sensors or are they wired together as one?
na-t on gte electronics, single knock sensor with a singe wire run to ecu. ecu is spliced about 1" from its connector and the 3 wires are soldered together. everything worked fine for a couple of months after the conversion then it started acting up and i replaced the wiring and its all the same problem.. which leads me to beleive the KS is bad... altho my ecu will only throw a code every so often. i cannot reproduce the code.
update: i swapped the sensor and same problem... is there such thing as some sort of sheilding tape i can wrap around the wires near the ecu?
Just today I had my first 52 code:-(
I had a long small black wire going under the intake man. that was connected with a larger wire in a small connector so I thought why not solder the thing instead of keeping the small connector , right?? Wrong
Now the engine CEL stays on while driving an when I pull code its a 52??
Hmmm been reading A LOT of post on the re-wire kit and speaker cable and so on.... dont think its a ECU or KS prob so must be wiring.
Does It in any way damage the engine - driving with a code 52 / check engine light on??
Sorry for Hi - jacking btw
I had a long small black wire going under the intake man. that was connected with a larger wire in a small connector so I thought why not solder the thing instead of keeping the small connector , right?? Wrong
Now the engine CEL stays on while driving an when I pull code its a 52??
Hmmm been reading A LOT of post on the re-wire kit and speaker cable and so on.... dont think its a ECU or KS prob so must be wiring.
Does It in any way damage the engine - driving with a code 52 / check engine light on??
Sorry for Hi - jacking btw
i have an idea, i know some people actually disabled their knock sensors, so how bout this what if i put a resistor on say where the back sensor should be and just use the front one (i am na-t so i only have 1 anyway) would this be a better solution than spicing a single sensor to two connections?
redo all of what? the wiring? i'm gonna rewire it again with a cressida KS connector tonight, it looks like the same kinda but it looks like it will fit tighter ( i even threw in a cressida KS)
now when i i've been doing my rewires i been using thinnet wire (old 10base2 networking wire (BNC)), should i try using higher grade digital audio wire? the coaxial kind? or should the thinnet suffice?
well i just rewired it again with new thinnet wire and i also redid my harness with new wire loom, so far no codes but we'll see