jt2ma71 said:
By how short you have cut the intake runners!
You may want to ask around on here http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/index.php
ed / glenn on there are doing alot of ITB work
JT2MA71's Build. Dyno video on post # 1191
- Thread starter jt2ma71
- Start date
By how short you have cut the intake runners!
You may want to ask around on here http://www.v-eight.com/tech_forum/index.php
ed / glenn on there are doing alot of ITB work
Jake's talked about doing it with a donor RB26 intake but I don't know that he ever got passed just thinking about it. That'd be an ideal thing to start with though!
Cool! I'll have to head over to Toymods again (lost my account in their move) and check it out.
Can't wait to see what Ron whips up.
Can't wait to see what Ron whips up.
thats dirty stupid awesome
cant wait to see how rons looks when hes done with his ITB's and plenum
cant wait to see how rons looks when hes done with his ITB's and plenum
Hey ron... 2jz huh. not bad i guess. there are too many people who think that the jz is the only way to make big power. i figured that people like you and hopefully myself (At some point) will be here to show the world that 7M's can make 1000rwhp and not fall apart. but, i guess 2j's can be fun too. hehe..
Jake had a good thought... with the way you go above and beyond in everything you do, you should do a Tall deck 2jz. course, thatd mean you need custom rods and pistons... possibly a crank. but some of my old friends from ohio put together a tall deck 2jz and it definitly works. its awe inspiring.
also, for the head work, i noticed people talking about sharp edges on the divider and such... IJ is right about it. knife-edged surfaces tend to be beneficial when air velocity exceeds the speed of sound. its the difference between the F22A nose cone and the Boeing 747 nose cone; F22A fighter jet is supersonic, 747 commercial jet is sub-sonic. if i was an aeronautical engineer, i could explain it to you better than just a comparison. oh, another thing i want to try out with head porting, is converting these motors from tumble port to swirl port. the 7M and jz series engines are engineered to be tumble port to enhance turbulence and fuel/air mixture dispersion during cylinder filling. this leaves different densities and voids of air/fuel mixture during the intake stroke. adding slight "rifling" to the intake ports will create a swirl effect in the ports and enhance the cylinder filling efficiency. since the intake port divides into 2 different valve bowls, youd want to creat Two riflings into each port. id start them in opposing rotations... whomever did your port work should be able to show you some neat tricks. a guy i met who worked on a formula 1 team was talking to me about it. he had about 60 hours into a 2jz head that was only 2/3's done.
additionally, in regards to the positive vaccum on the crank case, it frees up HP. but its significantly noticable if you use low-tension piston rings. creating a high vaccum in the crank case reduces the internal air pumping loss/windage as well as pulling the low tension rings tight against the wall due to the pressure differential in the cylinders. so, even if the rings fatigue and lose their tension, the vaccum pump will help them seal.
Oh, another thing i saw... you guys had said you were worried about the front main seal popping out. this only happens because the front main bearing oil film bleed off will back up and create pressure behind the seal if its installed TOO deep. if you look carefully, there is a drain at the bottom of the cavity where the oil needs to escape into the pan. If you insert the seal too far, it will block this return and the residual oil pressure bleeding from the front main bearing will push the front seal out. you dont need a retainer screw/bolt or anything to hold the seal in. just make sure that when you install the seal, its FLUSH with the mounting boss/front case cover. do not press it in any more than 0.5mm or you run the risk of popping the seal out. some people smear a film of FIPG on the new front main seal before pressing in, as well as installing a SECOND tension spring on the inside lip of the seal to hold the lip tighter against the crank snout.
i noticed that your pressure port on the turbo compressor housing is still open. you may know this already, but just go ahead and put an 1/8" NPT plug in there and block it off. on larger turbos running higher pressures, its difficult to get an accurate pressure reading so close to the compressor wheel. i usually take mine from the hot pipe right off the compressor. its just something i picked up along the way, i didnt really put much thought into the validity of the idea. but the way it seems to me, is that the air moves so fast in the housing in such a way that it can creat a low pressure area in that void; much the same way as fast moving air over a recess or void can actually be lower pressure than before or after the void.
Oh yes, i also remember you lapping the block... ill let you in on a little secret i found out; a Surface grinder puts a FLAWLESS finish on anything you can mount on the magnetic table! i had my old machinest put my 7m block on the table of the surface grinder and let it run for about 2 hours. he had to take about 0.017" out of it to completely remove the pitting... but there was no other machine work done to it and there are absolutely NO cutter marks or surface imperfections, just raw, virgin, precision-smooth cast iron. i could have put some rouge on a flap wheel and had a mirror finish on my block in about 2 applications.
everything looks so good. you never fail to impress. i wish i had more people of your caliber in my area. there arent many people who think outside the box anymore... most people never put much more thought into their car other than "what Kit should i buy for my car?" and if it doesnt come in kit-form, then it cant be done on their car...
there are too many people who think that the jz is the only way to make big power. i figured that people like you and hopefully myself (At some point) will be here to show the world that 7M's can make 1000rwhp and not fall apart. but, i guess 2j's can be fun too. hehe..Jake had a good thought... with the way you go above and beyond in everything you do, you should do a Tall deck 2jz. course, thatd mean you need custom rods and pistons... possibly a crank. but some of my old friends from ohio put together a tall deck 2jz and it definitly works. its awe inspiring.
also, for the head work, i noticed people talking about sharp edges on the divider and such... IJ is right about it. knife-edged surfaces tend to be beneficial when air velocity exceeds the speed of sound. its the difference between the F22A nose cone and the Boeing 747 nose cone; F22A fighter jet is supersonic, 747 commercial jet is sub-sonic. if i was an aeronautical engineer, i could explain it to you better than just a comparison. oh, another thing i want to try out with head porting, is converting these motors from tumble port to swirl port. the 7M and jz series engines are engineered to be tumble port to enhance turbulence and fuel/air mixture dispersion during cylinder filling. this leaves different densities and voids of air/fuel mixture during the intake stroke. adding slight "rifling" to the intake ports will create a swirl effect in the ports and enhance the cylinder filling efficiency. since the intake port divides into 2 different valve bowls, youd want to creat Two riflings into each port. id start them in opposing rotations... whomever did your port work should be able to show you some neat tricks.
a guy i met who worked on a formula 1 team was talking to me about it. he had about 60 hours into a 2jz head that was only 2/3's done. additionally, in regards to the positive vaccum on the crank case, it frees up HP. but its significantly noticable if you use low-tension piston rings. creating a high vaccum in the crank case reduces the internal air pumping loss/windage as well as pulling the low tension rings tight against the wall due to the pressure differential in the cylinders. so, even if the rings fatigue and lose their tension, the vaccum pump will help them seal.
Oh, another thing i saw... you guys had said you were worried about the front main seal popping out. this only happens because the front main bearing oil film bleed off will back up and create pressure behind the seal if its installed TOO deep. if you look carefully, there is a drain at the bottom of the cavity where the oil needs to escape into the pan. If you insert the seal too far, it will block this return and the residual oil pressure bleeding from the front main bearing will push the front seal out. you dont need a retainer screw/bolt or anything to hold the seal in. just make sure that when you install the seal, its FLUSH with the mounting boss/front case cover. do not press it in any more than 0.5mm or you run the risk of popping the seal out. some people smear a film of FIPG on the new front main seal before pressing in, as well as installing a SECOND tension spring on the inside lip of the seal to hold the lip tighter against the crank snout.
i noticed that your pressure port on the turbo compressor housing is still open. you may know this already, but just go ahead and put an 1/8" NPT plug in there and block it off. on larger turbos running higher pressures, its difficult to get an accurate pressure reading so close to the compressor wheel. i usually take mine from the hot pipe right off the compressor. its just something i picked up along the way, i didnt really put much thought into the validity of the idea. but the way it seems to me, is that the air moves so fast in the housing in such a way that it can creat a low pressure area in that void; much the same way as fast moving air over a recess or void can actually be lower pressure than before or after the void.
Oh yes, i also remember you lapping the block... ill let you in on a little secret i found out; a Surface grinder puts a FLAWLESS finish on anything you can mount on the magnetic table! i had my old machinest put my 7m block on the table of the surface grinder and let it run for about 2 hours. he had to take about 0.017" out of it to completely remove the pitting... but there was no other machine work done to it and there are absolutely NO cutter marks or surface imperfections, just raw, virgin, precision-smooth cast iron. i could have put some rouge on a flap wheel and had a mirror finish on my block in about 2 applications.
everything looks so good. you never fail to impress. i wish i had more people of your caliber in my area. there arent many people who think outside the box anymore... most people never put much more thought into their car other than "what Kit should i buy for my car?" and if it doesnt come in kit-form, then it cant be done on their car...
Man that is hot! that thing should be set for some quick qtr mile times and some highspeed highway driving!
jt2ma71 said:
Gosh, look at the size of those intake pipe fittings! You'll be sucking up small kittens in no time! :aigo: