Looks real good and the gauses looks right at home. Are you using a stand alone since you are using the 2JZ ecu plugs? Just curious,
Jon's 1989 1JZ single turbo restoration and build: Stellllllaaaaa!
- Thread starter mobes
- Start date
suprastanger507mgte;986028 said:
Thanks. I chose the gauges because of their close to factory appearance.
Using a 2JZ-GTE AEM EMS, see post #12.
So today I was trying to figure out what to do with the Supra while I wait for parts. I decided to give the dash bar a makeover. While it's not something that will be readily visible, I'll feel better knowing that it's not going to rust any more. I used the Kleen Strip rust remover from the automotive section at Wal-Mart. See the results for yourself:
That pesky steering column is next.
That pesky steering column is next.
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To see the opposite of this perfectionistic build thread click on the link in my signature :biglaugh:
Lookin' good! Beer and Margaritas at Jardin Corona took precedence over my Supra tonight
Lookin' good! Beer and Margaritas at Jardin Corona took precedence over my Supra tonight
My interior paint order showed up from Superior Restoration yesterday, so I gave my little gauge pod a makeover. I wasn't digging the smooth black, so I sprayed it with some 'spray grain', that is normally used when restoring leather. It's basically diluted Elmer's glue in a spritzer bottle. I hit the pod with that and then re-sprayed it with SEM color coat satin black. I'm happy with the results. It matches the dash quite well. What I'd like to do is actually integrate the pod into the dash and skin them both in leather, but that's a ways down the road. Here's the textured pod (click for larger image to actually see the grain):
I also installed an early 7M A/C pump top today. The later ones have a nipple on the back that interferes with one of the 1JZ pump bolts. Here is a comparison of the two top plates, early style top (with R134A adapter) and later style bottom:
In the car, top right bolt installed:
I didn't think I'd get it installed tonight, since I couldn't find the bolt and I have it on order. It just happened to be that a bag of bolts on the shelf caught my eye while working on the car. I had searched the garage up and down last week in search of that bolt before placing my parts order. I figured that since I hadn't seen the bolt since I did the 1JZ swap over 2 years ago, it was long gone. Well, I was wrong, and now it's all installed. Good thing the new one I ordered was only $1.34 or something like that.
Ever wondered what you get in the $125 R134A conversion kit from Toyota?
That's it. (Well plus the other adapter that is installed on the top plate in the above pics.) I got the kit for like $10 on eBay. I wouldn't have paid $125 for it! This one would be best sourced aftermarket unless you can swindle one for $10 on eBay Despite being from Toyota, It's not even Supra specific. You have to buy the other O-Rings separate since it only comes with the discharge hose ones.
By the way, if anyone needs a Receiver-Drier cheap, look here. You might want to buy yourself a spare or two at that price
I also installed an early 7M A/C pump top today. The later ones have a nipple
on the back that interferes with one of the 1JZ pump bolts. Here is a comparison of the two top plates, early style top (with R134A adapter) and later style bottom:
In the car, top right bolt installed:
I didn't think I'd get it installed tonight, since I couldn't find the bolt and I have it on order. It just happened to be that a bag of bolts on the shelf caught my eye while working on the car. I had searched the garage up and down last week in search of that bolt before placing my parts order. I figured that since I hadn't seen the bolt since I did the 1JZ swap over 2 years ago, it was long gone. Well, I was wrong, and now it's all installed
. Good thing the new one I ordered was only $1.34 or something like that.Ever wondered what you get in the $125 R134A conversion kit from Toyota?
That's it. (Well plus the other adapter that is installed on the top plate in the above pics.) I got the kit for like $10 on eBay. I wouldn't have paid $125 for it! This one would be best sourced aftermarket unless you can swindle one for $10 on eBay
Despite being from Toyota, It's not even Supra specific. You have to buy the other O-Rings separate since it only comes with the discharge hose ones.By the way, if anyone needs a Receiver-Drier cheap, look here. You might want to buy yourself a spare or two at that price
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lilazni3uoy;1016177 said:
Thanks
Now I just have to make the exterior look half as good as yours.
tsuper92;1016410 said:
One step ahead of you.
I picked up a Greddy oil cooler and relocation kit secondhand on the cheap. It's in pretty good shape, but there are a couple issues. First off, it doesn't have a thermostat. The kit doesn't seem incomplete, since there aren't enough hoses to have ever included a thermostat. Maybe the older ones didn't have it? The second issue is that the block adapter in the picture above is slightly smaller in diameter than I would expect. The remote oil filter mount is the correct size for the stock filter, but the block adapter isn't. It's actually too small for the O-ring to seat correctly if I put it directly on the block, but it fits fine on the filter extension housing as pictured above. I think I'll add a Mocal thermostat when I have Supra money again. I'm also contemplating a canister filter and possibly an accusump, but those will be a while down the road.
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So I decided to put the oil cooler on hold for a bit and work on getting the car running on the AEM. Josh (dok33) came by yesterday and gave me a hand.
I wired the car based mostly on BigTSetter's thread on SupraForums. Thanks. Having those directions meant I didn't have to map all the signals myself.
The first thing was getting the fuel pump running. The 2JZ uses pin 22A to turn on the fuel pump. The MKIV fuel ecu is expecting a high level trigger. Well the MKIII circuit opening relay expects a low side trigger, so I moved it to pin 73B (which is normally used for fuel pressure up signal) and configured that as the fuel pump pin. Good to go there. Since I'm 12V modded on the fuel pump I wasn't using it to adjust pump speed anyway.
The other issue I had was no spark and no injector signal. I checked the cam and crank sensors at the ECU and they were all open circuit. The solution was to connect pin 78B to ground, just like the directions said. Go me :nono:
So now I'm getting stat sync and I can manually fire the injectors and coils. The car still doesn't start. The base timing of the AEM provided 2JZ calibration was 25 degrees. I thought that was a bit extreme so I dropped it down to 15. I still need to check the crank advance. I don't have a timing light, so I guess it's time to get one. I figured it'd be set correctly since it is a plug-and-play setup but I haven't confirmed.
If there are any AEM gurus out there who'd like to chime in as far as next steps, feel free!
I wired the car based mostly on BigTSetter's thread on SupraForums. Thanks. Having those directions meant I didn't have to map all the signals myself.
The first thing was getting the fuel pump running. The 2JZ uses pin 22A to turn on the fuel pump. The MKIV fuel ecu is expecting a high level trigger. Well the MKIII circuit opening relay expects a low side trigger, so I moved it to pin 73B (which is normally used for fuel pressure up signal) and configured that as the fuel pump pin. Good to go there. Since I'm 12V modded on the fuel pump I wasn't using it to adjust pump speed anyway.
The other issue I had was no spark and no injector signal. I checked the cam and crank sensors at the ECU and they were all open circuit. The solution was to connect pin 78B to ground, just like the directions said. Go me :nono:
So now I'm getting stat sync and I can manually fire the injectors and coils. The car still doesn't start. The base timing of the AEM provided 2JZ calibration was 25 degrees. I thought that was a bit extreme so I dropped it down to 15. I still need to check the crank advance. I don't have a timing light, so I guess it's time to get one. I figured it'd be set correctly since it is a plug-and-play setup but I haven't confirmed.
If there are any AEM gurus out there who'd like to chime in as far as next steps, feel free!
I have a $10 Harbor Freight timing light if you want to borrow it. No guarantees that it'll be accurate though, although that's implied in the name I think I'm pretty sure engines in China spin the other direction and that's where the inaccuracy comes inffwall:
I'm pretty sure engines in China spin the other direction and that's where the inaccuracy comes inffwall:
dok33;1030807 said:I have a $10 Harbor Freight timing light if you want to borrow it. No guarantees that it'll be accurate though, although that's implied in the name I think
I thought it was Australia where they spin the other way? :dunno:
Bluechulappa;1030845 said:
Thanks! I've been following your build thread and yours is coming along nicely too.
Car is running
Set timing to 10 degrees and cleaned my plugs - they were horribly fouled from the timing being off so far.
Set timing to 10 degrees and cleaned my plugs - they were horribly fouled from the timing being off so far.
Put some new NGK 3330's in and it starts up every time now. I also dropped the base FP to about 30. It runs eye watering rich. I'm not sure what the AEM has for AFR units but it reads like 5.xx most of the time while the gauge is reading 10.xx. I also think the ISCV is a bit sticky. Sometimes it likes to idle at 3K rpm when the AEM says target idle is 800. If I mess with the settings a bit it seems to un-stick and start to idle where I ask it to. Then sometimes it's back to 3K. Someone had posted on SF about ISCV wires 2 and 3 being swapped so I tried reversing those and it made it completely uncontrollable so I switched them back.
I've got a little leak from the bottom of the FPR. It's 5/16" fuel hose over a 3/8" push-lock barb. It worked for a while, but I think it finally gave up. I think I'll probably switch it to 3/8" hose and just clamp it tight over the hardline.
I've got a little leak from the bottom of the FPR. It's 5/16" fuel hose over a 3/8" push-lock barb. It worked for a while, but I think it finally gave up. I think I'll probably switch it to 3/8" hose and just clamp it tight over the hardline.
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Got the fuel leak fixed.
Looks like I've got a bad coil pack. The car was idling rough, so I pulled the plugs again and the front 5 are carboned, the back one is clean and wet. Looks like I found the issue. The car runs no different with that coil connected/disconnected. I also confirmed that it has signal to it. Looks like it's time to replace my crappy epoxied ones. I just wish they weren't so spendy.
Looks like I've got a bad coil pack. The car was idling rough, so I pulled the plugs again and the front 5 are carboned, the back one is clean and wet. Looks like I found the issue. The car runs no different with that coil connected/disconnected. I also confirmed that it has signal to it. Looks like it's time to replace my crappy epoxied ones. I just wish they weren't so spendy.
Glad you got it figured out, sorry I didn't call, was busy (see build thread ). Horay for idling garage queens :biglaugh:
Ordered the last of my bike gear today, should have yo money in the next couple of days...
). Horay for idling garage queens :biglaugh:Ordered the last of my bike gear today, should have yo money in the next couple of days...