John's 87 N/A where did my money go!? Build(ish)

[northdakotakid]

I don't think I am going to be able to make it, as much as I would like to. Got to watch the stupid dogs for my dad, and I kind of want to work on the Supra more.

Update...
I got the oil pan off, and have begun to clean it and the block, not many pictures as I was covered in oil, but you get the idea.

Here is what it looks like outside....I thought winter was over!

Thats all for tonight, I am tired. Am going to start again first thing in the morning.

 

[OneJArpus]

^Holy crap! Never going to ND lol that much snow in april crazy!

 

[northdakotakid]

Most of the snow was gone too, it was up to 60 degrees on some days, and then this happens...

 

[fixitman04]

he got twice that in gf. i woulda called you this morning but i was running late and dealing with a very angry supra on snowy roads

 

[northdakotakid]

Oil pan is back in as of yesterday, and so far, no spots on the driveway! 6qts of Mobil 5w-30, I will constantly check the dipstick to see how fast I am burning oil now that the leak is fixed.
This is some great stuff!

No worries man, Ill have to drive up to grand forks sometime. On that note, I am in grand forks almost every week, Ill let you know the next time im in town.

Worked on the Supera again last night for a little bit, mainly to get it back up on the hoist to see how the oil pan is sealing. No leaks around the pan! But now I have to figure out why my intake manifold is covered in oil on the bottom side. It has both caked, and fresh oil on it.
Also, while under the car, I noticed that some of the lines were a little different, so I cleaned them up a bit and I found AN lines, that's a pleasant surprise!

 

[northdakotakid]

Finally an update:
Well I blew a coolant hose on the back side of the motor, so while it is winter, and the supra will be out of commission for some time, I decided to pull the motor and give it a well needed refresh. I started today, didn't do too much, but it's better than nothing. I'm getting a hoist and leveler from my buddy and pulling the motor and transmission at the same time. I am wondering about the transmission, it grinds in second gear, only second, every other gear is butter, but is there a place I can get syncros for 2nd? For now, here are some pictures.

Lower portion of the Radiator is all torn up...

 

[northdakotakid]

Got the motor pulled tonight. Good feeling to get the motor and trans out.

 

[northdakotakid]

Ok so I for sure need a complete gasket set, my rear main seal is leaking along with everything above that. my power steering pump is also completely covered in grime.

I do have a question on cleaning the engine bay. I dont have a pressure washer or hose, so what does everyone use to clean the bay? And the engine for that matter.

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[northdakotakid]

Not that anyone cares, but I ordered stuff from Driftmotion and rockauto. Gasket set, timing belt and tensioner, poly bushings, brake pads, rotors, clutch slave cylinder, coolant hoses. Will post pictures when parts arrive.

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[northdakotakid]

Got some work done today, pulled most off of the motor, and I cannot seem to find the cause of the coolant leak. The 90 degree elbow does not seem to be cracked or anything, and the metal coolant pipes seem all solid. I am at a dilemma now. The car ran fine before I pulled it, it just leaked everywhere and was in need of a refresh. Now that I have it this far, I keep coming back to pulling the head, and putting a new head gasket on just to be safe. I am staying N/A, and would be using a stock HG. But I don't have 400 bucks to fork over for a head rebuild. I don't want to cut corners, but its hard not to when your on a budget. I have a complete gasket set on the way from Driftmotion, but it recommends not using the HG in the kit. I know that if I pull the head, I need to get it checked, and that costs money, which I don't have much of. Also I would need ARP studs, and a new HG (felpro?) I am backed into a corner as to what to do. Any help or friendly advice is very much appreciated.

For now, here are some pictures.
Almost torn down. This thing is insanely dirty/grimy

Not to be forgotten is the extremely dirty engine bay

The power steering pump is completely covered in grime, is there a rebuild kit of sorts for this? It worked fine, but is apparently leaky.

I figured I would try paint stripping my wheels, this is after 1 coat of stripper.

I sure am missing sitting behind the wheel....

 

[CyFi6]

Damn that motor is messy. You can re-use the stock headbolts without a problem, but at a minimum if you pull the head you should have it resurfaced and check the block deck for flatness.

 

[northdakotakid]

Okay as long as I torque to 75ft. lbs. I should be okay? In order to get the head resurfaced I need to strip the head completely. My dad just had his 7m head rebuilt and he said it came to around 400 bucks, with resurfacing obviously.

 

[CyFi6]

No need to strip it, they can do just a resurface with all the valves in there, just need to remove the cams and buckets.

 

[northdakotakid]

Okay good. What would you recommend to clean the block? Simple green and a lot of elbow grease? Or is there some other trick?

 

[fixitman04]

purple power... and hot water...with elbow grease... gotta wear rubber gloves though... that stuff is hard on the skin

 

[kwatso23]

Hey man. You mentioned earlier that you thought your power steering pump was leaking but you didn't seem too sure about it. It might be worthwhile checking your dizzy for a leak out the bottom. I thought i had a similar problem with my power steering but it turned out that it was just my dizzy leaking onto the pump. It's a fairly common problem when the seal goes. Also when you put the motor back together keep an eye on your cam covers. They usually leak heaps out the back. I realise you're on a budget so you might wanna re-use your old screws but if the problem persists it might be worthwhile doing what i did. I bought some 40mm grub screws and some shakeproof nuts. I cleaned out the threads in the head, locktighted the grubscrews into the head and then did the nuts up firm. This is the same principle as using head studs as opposed to head bolts and it completely fixed the leak. And only cosy me 30 bucks!!!
Good luck with the build i'm keen to keep watching.

 

[supraguy@aol]

Do not re-use your head bolts.
They are torque-to-yield, and as they have already been torqued at least once, they have already been stretched, and they should be replaced.
Stock-type head bolts are very cheap.

 

[northdakotakid]

It says right in the TSRM that the head bolts can be reused.

I finally got my order from Driftmotion

Energy Front Bushings, Timing Belt, Tensioner, Gasket Set, Exhaust Stud heli-coil kit, and FIPG.

 

[Moy]

I personally would have just gone with ARP head studs, they're only about 100 or so from THMotorsports.

 

[CyFi6]

Yup stock bolts are NOT TTY or I would never recommend re-using them. Of course they should be checked for damage, but in most cases can be re used without issue. For a stock NA, I really see no need for ARP hardware especially if you are on a budget. Not sure which gasket set you bought but make sure if its a cheap set you bin the head gasket and get a Felpro, Ishino, Stone, or OEM head gasket (if you decide to change it).