just purchased a R154 and sent them back the new turbo clutch and fw will be here next week. Figured I didnt want to waste the W58 tranny and new parts so I picked up the new tranny to hold the power.
Jay's Rebuild 7MGE to 7MGTE Conversion
- Thread starter j_magers
- Start date
i got the whole kit and kabutal for 400 bucks.
tranny
slave cyl
hard line
soft line
mounting brackets
two piece drive shaft
then i sent the n/a clutch and fw back and bought
RPS, Clutch Kits MAX Pressure Plate w-Sprung Hub 6 Pad Disc Turbo 3200lbs, Torque Capacity 730 / Pressure Increase 85%
and a new Fidanza turbo fw.
tranny
slave cyl
hard line
soft line
mounting brackets
two piece drive shaft
then i sent the n/a clutch and fw back and bought
RPS, Clutch Kits MAX Pressure Plate w-Sprung Hub 6 Pad Disc Turbo 3200lbs, Torque Capacity 730 / Pressure Increase 85%
and a new Fidanza turbo fw.
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Well the block came back, got the freeze plugs, installed them and gave it a shiny new paint job. two self etching primer coats, 3 coats of 1200 degree red, and two coats of high temp clear.
Makes for a nice shiny block.
oh yeah, assembly starts tomorrow.
woohooooo
Makes for a nice shiny block.
oh yeah, assembly starts tomorrow.
woohooooo
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Looks good Jay and I know it's too late now but you really should have masked off all the machined surfaces such as the Turbo Oil Drain and the Filter mount boss as they will seep 
.
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the filter mount is not a concern, have relocator kit going on with n/a bolt. the turbo oil drain i will just have to clean real good. thanks
your right, just went back and looked and see the return hole. Oh well, just have to clean it good.
Bit of a tip Jay take a single edge razor blade, scapel, new box cutter blade and run it round the edge of where you want to clean off.
Doing this means it won't chip the paint and leave a ragged edge it'd be a shame to spoil that beautiful Red paint!
Doing this means it won't chip the paint and leave a ragged edge it'd be a shame to spoil that beautiful Red paint!
Well, did the bottom end today.
Only had a couple of problems, I was 6 for 10 in putting the pistons in with the ring compressor, never did that before but it was relatively easy. Put all the pistons in before putting a rod cap on any, had to take out 4 then 2 then I was good. Shimmed the new oil pump, I dont know how anyone can get 10mm worth of washers in there, I could only fit one and its about 4.5 mm tried to get a second one on it and it only had a half a thread left so that wasnt going to work. Got the main rear oil seal on, that was a PITA, because the engine was off the stand being supported by a make shift stand and the fact that is a tight fit doesnt help, well actually it will later. Lubed it up good but I am going to leave the oil pan off until I get the head on. Here are some pics. The pistons fit nice and snug.
Overall Iam happy with the progress today, no busted rings, crank turns. Tommorrow the front cover and the head.
Only had a couple of problems, I was 6 for 10 in putting the pistons in with the ring compressor, never did that before but it was relatively easy. Put all the pistons in before putting a rod cap on any, had to take out 4 then 2 then I was good. Shimmed the new oil pump, I dont know how anyone can get 10mm worth of washers in there, I could only fit one and its about 4.5 mm tried to get a second one on it and it only had a half a thread left so that wasnt going to work. Got the main rear oil seal on, that was a PITA, because the engine was off the stand being supported by a make shift stand and the fact that is a tight fit doesnt help, well actually it will later. Lubed it up good but I am going to leave the oil pan off until I get the head on. Here are some pics. The pistons fit nice and snug.
Overall Iam happy with the progress today, no busted rings, crank turns. Tommorrow the front cover and the head.
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the machine shop plasticgauged the entire crank with bearings, all were within tolerance. They also did the rods. They said "thats why it took so long", load of crap but he had the specs documented. They had the dam thing for a month.
I figured I paid for it, might as well trust it. One question for you, the pistons in the top postion come slightly over the deck, normal? I am worried the deck might be cut too much. He had to take 23thsd off, had some pitting.
Standard the piston is out of the hole at TDC by about 10 thou (Not 100% certain on this)
What gasket are you using?
What gasket are you using?
Iam putting a 2mm mhg in, so if I did the numbers right I should have the same clearane as the stock hg. I guess I can check it, found this in a thread:
"You can check this when the timing belt is off by setting the cams so the valves are open on one cylinder and rotating the crank. If it you can do a full revolution without it stopping then they don't hit."
"You can check this when the timing belt is off by setting the cams so the valves are open on one cylinder and rotating the crank. If it you can do a full revolution without it stopping then they don't hit."
Ahhh ok I see now you're concerned about making it into an interference motor!
Nothing to worry about there with a 2mm gasket in there!
Stock compressed is around 1.3 mm so you have .7mm/27 thou to remove before it's at stock height!
Nothing to worry about there with a 2mm gasket in there!
Stock compressed is around 1.3 mm so you have .7mm/27 thou to remove before it's at stock height!