Is there a trick to pulling the timing belt gear

rakkasan

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Mar 31, 2005
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from the crank snout? I don't see anything holding it on, but it won't budge. I don't want to crank down on it and damage it before I find the right way to do it.....

Shouldn't just slide off?
 
Both mine were a bit tough but some strategic pulling while shaking it side to side, up and down, and every which way eventually loosened it. I didn't want to pry it or anything but if you've got the engine in a secure position you can wiggle the pulley a good bit with your hands :)
 

shaeff

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Wriggling it around worked just fine for me. It catches on the Woodruff key. Many people have the same problem with the crank pulley.
 

rakkasan

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Jeff Lange;1248895 said:
How are you trying to take it off now? Just curious.

Jeff

I tried to pull on it, but stopped when it didn't come loose, I didn't want to damage it.

I'll try the wiggle method, thanks fells
 

Jeff Lange

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If all else fails, use a pulley puller. I doubt it's on there tight enough that a pulley puller would damage it, but even if it does get damaged, you can replace it. Just make sure you don't damage the crank, that's the real money.

Jeff
 

rakkasan

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Jeff Lange;1248918 said:
If all else fails, use a pulley puller. I doubt it's on there tight enough that a pulley puller would damage it, but even if it does get damaged, you can replace it. Just make sure you don't damage the crank, that's the real money.

Jeff


I have a puller, so I'll give that a shot. It won't wiggle at all.

I'm not too concerned about the crank to be honest, I'm pretty sure that the short block is toast. When i pulled the HB off, the lower timing cover had a hole worn into it from the HB rubbing it. Looks like crank walk to me.

something catastrophic happened, but I can't put my finger on it as of yet. I had almost no compression in the #1 cylinder, possible crank walk and the timing belt tensioner looks to be inop. I fugged something up, well, lots of things, but I'm still trying to determine what happened first that caused this mess......
 

aphxero

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See those 2 threaded holes on the front of the gear? They are for pulling it. Dont use a puller that grabs the outside you'll destroy it. Oh and pb blaster. Lots of it.
 

rakkasan

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aphxero;1248954 said:
See those 2 threaded holes on the front of the gear? They are for pulling it. Dont use a puller that grabs the outside you'll destroy it. Oh and pb blaster. Lots of it.

Got it! Thanks.

However, I had bent one of the timing 'tits' on the backside of the gear and I hammered it straight. I don't think that this is one of those things that will bite me in the ass later. Well, I hope not....
 

tlo86

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Jul 24, 2005
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rakkasan;1249059 said:
Got it! Thanks.

However, I had bent one of the timing 'tits' on the backside of the gear and I hammered it straight. I don't think that this is one of those things that will bite me in the ass later. Well, I hope not....

not sure if it is or not but... less than 10$ for a new one IIRC.. because i did that too heh. i never put it on though
 

rakkasan

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tlo86;1249990 said:
not sure if it is or not but... less than 10$ for a new one IIRC.. because i did that too heh. i never put it on though

$10 for the gear? I'm buying new if that's the case, that's cheap insurance. I shutter at the though of pulling it off again.
 

soapra

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Apr 6, 2005
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Gear new is about $70 dollars not $10. After you get done taking it off, have some one spot weld the teeth to the gear on the back side. I've had the teeth come apart from the gear and it makes all kinds of funny timing mistakes.
 

rakkasan

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soapra;1250357 said:
Gear new is about $70 dollars not $10. After you get done taking it off, have some one spot weld the teeth to the gear on the back side. I've had the teeth come apart from the gear and it makes all kinds of funny timing mistakes.

Good info. I was just told about the spot weld yesterday.....

Thanks Jose
 

suprahero

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Mark. I have one in my posession that I will let you have for..........one million dollars.


I'll let you pay me in small monthly payments if it will help you out.
 

rakkasan

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suprahero;1250819 said:
Mark. I have one in my posession that I will let you have for..........one million dollars.


I'll let you pay me in small monthly payments if it will help you out.

Dood, I got your message but I can't call since I'm in school. Well, I will if you don't mind get a ring at 12pm ;). If you would, send it to me and PM to let me know what you want for it. I'll give you what ever you want for it.

I'm going to tack weld it, so if it's loose, don't worry about it, I'll take care of it. I don't EVER want to work on my motor again, so a little insurance will go a long way towards my sanity. Trying to find the time and energy to work on my car has been kicking me in the nuts....
 

SupraFreak13

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Jan 3, 2009
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rakkasan;1249059 said:
Got it! Thanks.

However, I had bent one of the timing 'tits' on the backside of the gear and I hammered it straight. I don't think that this is one of those things that will bite me in the ass later. Well, I hope not....
It will bit you in the ass...When I did my 1JZ timing belt one of the "tits" were bent and I didn't notice. It caught the timing belt and came off the back side of the timing gear. It took me days to figure out why it would get spark so inconsistently, the crank trigger gear would catch now and then and spin some...now I'm trying to figure out why it breaks up so bad when it starts to boost..
 

Poodles

I play with fire
Jul 22, 2006
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No need to weld on the new gears as they use more crimps to keep the guides on. Also, the weld could throw it out of balance...

The bolt holes are the same as the timing cover bolts, I used the top two bolts as they're the longest (had spares) with a flat piece of metal over the snout of the crank. Alternate tightening them into the pulley and it comes right out.