Installing crank timing pulley woodruff key, oil seals, and pressing balancer on?

Figit090

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I've done some searching and reading and found some things, but still have these questions.

I purchased a new woodruff key for the timing belt crank pulley from toyota, and it's a very tight fit, I can only manage to stick 1/3 of one end in by hand in attempt to wiggle or push it down in...I imagine it should be snug but how snug? It fits the pulley just fine, no wiggle but not tight.

My original woodruff key was damaged because my harmonic balancer's key was too small, (damn P.O.!:icon_evil) and let THAT get damaged...hence the new key. Tips on getting the little thing in would be appreciated :1zhelp:

Also, I know the harmonic dampener is a "light press fit," can I just get it partially on and let the pulley bolt press it on?

Lastly, I read a post by IJ about putting permatex #4 around the oil seals to help seal them to the block, and I don't know which color/type of sealant #4 is... and I'm guessing any light grease will be ok to lube the inner wall of the seal?
 
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IJ.

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Tap the key in with a plastic hammer or a piece of aluminium.

Big piece of wood on the front of the damper and tap it on with a hammer, I use antiseize.

#4 is black just like #3 but it sets up hard whereas #3 stays gooey.
 

Figit090

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Thank you Ian. :) Much appreciated.

My power was out yesterday right after I posted this...very aggravating to know there's probably help waiting but not have the means to do anything about it. All I could do was remove my water pump, and wait. lol.
 

Figit090

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I will either do that or use some grease. Either sounds good though, so I'll probably grab the assembly lube since I have such a huge tube of it. Thanks for the suggestion, I even looked at the tube and didn't even think of using it! :)
 

Figit090

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Yeah the oil punp seal is pre-lubed with red grease.

I got the key mose of the way in for the timing pulley but the end closer to the engine is sticking up a little bit and I can't tap it in any further. Since the pulley slips almost all the way over the key by hand, could I just tap the pulley on and let it push the key down if it needs to?
 

Figit090

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IJ.;1493271 said:
There's a small gap between the top of the key and the slot in the damper, it means the key can't kick up on enough of an angle to catch the slot and jam

Ah well earlier I was asking about the lower timing pulley, but same goes for both I think. I did notice there was some extra room in there, thanks.

I will be SURE to tighten it down to 195.

I just discovered that my crankshaft bolt wobbles a bit like possibly the threads are damaged. I doubt that there would be that much play involved with this bolt...but I kinda hope it's somewhat OK....we'll see I guess.:nono:
 

Figit090

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It's already done damage IJ. The crank snout has been worn or morphed smaller, I have to shim it to get a tight fit, my best idea so far is a section of aluminum can. (I know...wow.:icon_mad: Aluminum can.:nono: It's all I can do though.)
The bolt looks pretty good I think, it's the crank that probably sustained thread damage. Nothing I can do there...unless someone has actually had good luck with that permatex thread repair crap. My dad has tried it and it NEVER set up, not even on the mixing palette.

I'll check the crank closely when I get home, and confirm where the threads are damaged...bolt or crank. If it's the crank, I imagine I'll just end up putting anti-sieze on the threads to help lower the friction, and hope it makes 195ft/lbs.

Again, to anyone new to this thread, I'm not a complete hack mechanic, I just don't have the option nor can I justify spending money on a new crank and doing the rather involved procedure. I don't even have an engine lift so any attempt at unbolting the engine and subframe to drop the pan would be unnecessarily dangerous for me. I just don't want you all to view this thread and think I'm an idiot...I do know what's 'right' - I just can't do it.
 

Figit090

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GRAAAHHH!!!

my torque wrench doesn't go past 150ft/lbs. :cry:

Sooooo has anyone made an extension for their wrench for this? The instructions for my wrench mention doing so; putting an extension between the wrench and the bolt to multiply the torque at the bolt...

Sounds kinda iffy...at the very least a bit troublesome to make one.
 

Figit090

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lol...YEAH but...spec is also a press fit, and I achieved that with a piece of aluminum can. WHICH, by the way, was a V8 juice can! Hahaha. I thought it was fitting for the job!



So IJ did you say that an impact wrench could have been part of the cause of my problems?

NINJA...going to buy one. GARBLEGARBLE
 

IJ.

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Figit090;1497715 said:
lol...YEAH but...spec is also a press fit, and I achieved that with a piece of aluminum can. WHICH, by the way, was a V8 juice can! Hahaha. I thought it was fitting for the job!

Well unless I can find a suitable tool to use for an extension I'll probably have to purchase a new wrench...dammit

So IJ did you say that an impact wrench could have been part of the cause of my problems?

Wouldn't surprise me, the spec is there for a reason a rattle gun might have been anywhere from 90 to 250 ft/lbs you have no way of knowing.

NEVER had a damper come undone when it's been torqued to spec but have seen first hand the damage it causes.