improper valve to cam lobe clearance?

[Moy]

My engine has been ticking for a while now, and I've always known it was due to having improperly sized shims between the lash caps and cam lobes. I haven't been able to fix it, though, as the Supra is my one and only car, and daily driver.

Recently, the sound has gotten a lot worse, but it's only coming from the rear of the head. I believe it is from the lobes 11 and 12 (and possibly 9 and 10 as well) on the intake side, literally rubbing against the valve adjusting shims.

I made a video of it, it becomes more audible as I have the camera over the engine.

Please excuse the poor quality.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

That sounds like a lot more than valve lash. Not right that the cam lobes are scored. They normally get worn, not scored. Did you notice anything laying around when you had the VC off? May have spit a spacer.

 

[funky_monkey58]

Pictures of said cams?

 

[Moy]

That sounds like a lot more than valve lash. Not right that the cam lobes are scored. They normally get worn, not scored. Did you notice anything laying around when you had the VC off? May have spit a spacer.

The first thing I thought of when I heard the sound was "god I hope I didn't spit a shim". But when I checked, all shims were in place. I'll go back out and take it apart again to check again. Shouldn't take me more than 3 hours

 

[Moy]

Pictures of said cams?

I'll take pics when I take the covers off again

 

[rayall01]

It might just be bad audio, but it sounds to me more like an exhaust manifold leak, than valve noise.

 

[Moy]

Pictures of cams. The head is disgusting, I know. PO was not very clean about anything with the car...

 

[Moy]

It might just be bad audio, but it sounds to me more like an exhaust manifold leak, than valve noise.

It's probably bad audio. In person, to me and my dad at least, it sounds like metal on metal contact

 

[funky_monkey58]

Do you have a set of feeler gauges?

 

[Moy]

Do you have a set of feeler gauges?

I do.

I think it might be as rayall suggested with the exhaust leak... I let the car warm up, and revved it a few times, and I had smoke coming from the back of the head. Possible EGR cooler gasket blowout, and the rattling I'm hearing could be the bolts vibrating from the turbulence...

 

[rayall01]

Well then, get to checking for a leak!

 

[BlackDynamite]

sounds like exhaust leak. what happens if the seal on the egr cover on the back of the motor blows ? I've never had it happen, but could this make this sound or any sound at all?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=2501&P=1

 

[Moy]

sounds like exhaust leak. what happens if the seal on the egr cover on the back of the motor blows ? I've never had it happen, but could this make this sound or any sound at all?

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=2501&P=1

I'm honestly thinking that my EGR cooler gasket had a blowout, and the rattling is the bolts

 

[BlackDynamite]

take a piece of string or paper or zip tie and dangle it behind the motor and/or that general area. see if it moves. this may help you find the leak, if there is one. try revving the motor a little too.

 

[Moy]

take a piece of string or paper or zip tie and dangle it behind the motor and/or that general area. see if it moves. this may help you find the leak, if there is one. try revving the motor a little too.

Well I let the engine get up to operating temps and revved it up, exhaust was blowing from out behind the head. That's why I assume EGR cooler gasket. It would suck because I'd have to pull the engine to get at it... unless I can just torque the piss out of the bolts holding the plate on

 

[BlackDynamite]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!! ....remember aluminum head and there is a gasket...if it is blown, then it needs replacing.......lol, you don't have to remove engine. just pull head off, and replace head gasket while you're at it and throw on a set of ARP head bolts.

 

[Moy]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON!!!! ....remember aluminum head and there is a gasket...if it is blown, then it needs replacing.......lol, you don't have to remove engine. just pull head off, and replace head gasket while you're at it and throw on a set of ARP head bolts.

I don't plan on keeping this engine in the car much longer. The engine has 237K miles on it. The valve stems leak, low compression, leaking rear main seal.

I meant super torque the bolts down as a temporary fix until I can get the engine back together. I'm just waiting on gaskets and helicoils.

 

[rayall01]

Unbolt the tranny mount, and jack the rear of the tranny up, that will give you some room to work.

 

[BlackDynamite]

a complete gasket kit, oil pump, water pump, bearings, arps, timing belt, and some rings will save you money in long run. That will run you about 700 bucks. If you get a jdm engine, spend another 500+ dollars.....Even if you get a jdm/junk yard engine, i would still rebuild it. The engine you have now doesn't have rod knock, so that is better than NOT knowing, like on a jdm engine. you never know what you're gonna get. Just make sure all clearances are good and you have all machine work done.

 

[Moy]

a complete gasket kit, oil pump, water pump, bearings, arps, timing belt, and some rings will save you money in long run. That will run you about 700 bucks. If you get a jdm engine, spend another 500+ dollars.....Even if you get a jdm/junk yard engine, i would still rebuild it. The engine you have now doesn't have rod knock, so that is better than NOT knowing, like on a jdm engine. you never know what you're gonna get. Just make sure all clearances are good and you have all machine work done.

I know all of this already. I'm saying that I have a usdm 7m-gte disassembled in my garage waiting for gaskets and helicoils.

I do not plan on keeping my 7m-ge in the car for the long run.