I'm going to need help with this AEM...

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
0
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52
Florida
Thanks... Is there an aluminum bung I can buy to weld onto the pipe to give the sensor more to bite into? I was looking at the route of my IC pipes, I think I may put it in the corner where the battery used to be, right there on that bend in the pipe... That way it will be protected from any debris hitting it and also away from teh motor/radiator... Sound good?
 

Halsupramk3

Member
Apr 4, 2005
444
0
16
Mississippi
i bent/curved a washer with the correct size hole to tap. i curved it to shape the ic pipe and welded it on. i drilled a hole thru it for 3/8 npt painted it and tapped it. i may make some kind of isolator for the hole now to try to keep the ic pipe from heating it up. the ic pipe comes from the fender and across the turbo to tb. the ait is in the pipe next to the fender. i may move it because there is some wind in that area from the radiator fan. i could do the same thing with the pipe insided the fender.

those aluminum bungs are nice. my pipes are steel so it was easier.
 

bfr1992t

The quiet one
Oct 29, 2005
272
0
16
Ohio
FYI AEM included a printed sheet with wiring information AND all of the pdf's are on the cd and copied to your HD when installed. As others have said, download v1.19 and upgrade to that immediately. There is a PDF on what steps you will need to perform after flashing the ecu, but basically you need to set the load input to MAP and change the afr type to gasoline.

My car would not start with the mk3 map provided by AEM including after recalculating for injectors (720's). I would have been surprised if it had. Just letting you know what to expect.

I'd also recommend changing the original breakpoints before you start tuning it. Get rid of the "0" load and rpm breakpoint.

I have a few cars running AEM's that both purr at idle and drive normally day to day.
 

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
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Florida
The more I read this, the more I wanna throw my car on a loader and send it to Titan and call it done...

My concern is the break in period... But I've heard both sides... You should break it in slow, be easy on it, dont boost it, dont push it, drive it like a grandma... And the other side: crank it, throw it on the dyno, rip off 700hp and tune it the way you plan to drive it, and call it done...

I dunno... I trust Titan with my car... I dunno... I cant expect them to drive it around for a week before tuning it... AGH... I'm gunna go look for threads I can close... ;) hehehe frustration buster...
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
16
38
50
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Reign_Maker said:
The more I read this, the more I wanna throw my car on a loader and send it to Titan and call it done...

My concern is the break in period... But I've heard both sides... You should break it in slow, be easy on it, dont boost it, dont push it, drive it like a grandma... And the other side: crank it, throw it on the dyno, rip off 700hp and tune it the way you plan to drive it, and call it done...

I dunno... I trust Titan with my car... I dunno... I cant expect them to drive it around for a week before tuning it... AGH... I'm gunna go look for threads I can close... ;) hehehe frustration buster...


haha

dude. Titan owns for tuning. :)



only way to break in a High HP motor is is to drive it like you stole it. I was driving it like I stole it from mile zero (after the 15 minute warm up).
 

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
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Well, i closed some threads, so I feel better...

Yeah Fig, I think I may just do that... I would rather be safe, let someone I trust and that does this on a daily basis take over for me... Like handing off your baby... But Darin is the best tuner around here, and from what I've seen him do with other cars, if he does HALF that with mine I'll be estatic...
 

figgie

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
5,225
16
38
50
Twin Cities, Minnesot-ah
Reign_Maker said:
Well, i closed some threads, so I feel better...

Yeah Fig, I think I may just do that... I would rather be safe, let someone I trust and that does this on a daily basis take over for me... Like handing off your baby... But Darin is the best tuner around here, and from what I've seen him do with other cars, if he does HALF that with mine I'll be estatic...

AEM, Motec, Haltech, BigStuff.

all the same thing

ignition, fueling and idle. How you get to the tuning portion for those specifics is diff but 10 degreees in one is 10 degrees in the other ;) The other part that changes is the advanced stuff like injector turn on time in degrees (diff in sequential then waste spark/fuel). Dwell times (depends on coils used).

Sean knows his stuff regardless of ECU. And regardless of car Sean never does HALF anything ;)
 

Silvermk2

MkII Weenie
Apr 4, 2005
99
0
0
47
Stockton, CA
Halsupramk3 said:
good luck tuning a descent idle. it seems to idle differently every time you start the car. espcially when the temperature changes over the day.


Ha I thought I was the only one with that problem. Nah but seriously its a problem with all AEMs from what I can tell. It really doesn't effect idle, but the whole fuel maps. Its probably the hardest thing to account for with tuning.
 

bfr1992t

The quiet one
Oct 29, 2005
272
0
16
Ohio
Silvermk2 said:
Ha I thought I was the only one with that problem. Nah but seriously its a problem with all AEMs from what I can tell. It really doesn't effect idle, but the whole fuel maps. Its probably the hardest thing to account for with tuning.


:confused: My car idles the same everytime.

What are you using for Air Temp Fuel correction and ignition vs air temp? What about ign vs idle speed? Have you properly calibration your idle target vs % table? Are you using throttle based inj correction too (ie full boost comp), hybrid, or none at all?

If you read through the AEM forums a lot of this information is on there. You need to learn the ins and outs of the software and review every table and function. The original calibration AEM provided was mainly to provide you with working ignition and fuel inj while the actual fuel/ign tables were only just enough to start the car (w/ stock equipment at that).

What figgie said is very true. However I know that on my very first standalone, if I had a freshly built motor I'd want someone with experience there too. One option for you, and what I did, is get the motor running and broken in using the stock ECU (plus piggybacks), then switch over and start learning.
 

Silvermk2

MkII Weenie
Apr 4, 2005
99
0
0
47
Stockton, CA
I'd have to look, but I didn't use the Mk3 base map for mine. A lot of the tables on mine started out from MkIV maps.

Mine idles at around 0-1% all the time from high idle to 800RPM. Currently I'm using full boost comp. I'm working on switching over to full table based to better fine tune it. The car has ran and drove fine for almost a year with the AEM now. The biggest problem I have with it is variability. I can set the idle to 13:1 today and next morning its 12.5:1. Same thing with driving down the road. I drive this way down the road and I get this and turn around it's different. Technically 02 feedback should take care of this, but I have no confidence it what so ever.

AEM forums is great and all, but all the good information is from 2004. AEM in their 20 software revisions since has did a complete 180 in the software. The most frustrating thing when I 1st started was to find a way to fix something and find the menu, function, graph, etc isn't there or doesn't exist anymore.
 

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
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52
Florida
bfr1992t said:
However I know that on my very first standalone, if I had a freshly built motor I'd want someone with experience there too.
Thats my plan, just let Titan tune it from the offset... Initial start up, throw it on the dyno, and just let them do their thing...
bfr1992t said:
One option for you, and what I did, is get the motor running and broken in using the stock ECU (plus piggybacks), then switch over and start learning.
I dont have that luxury... :nono: