I'm an idiot!

NiGMa

New Member
May 4, 2007
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Australia
Figit090 said:
he mentioned the noise went away, what about valve tick? starving the top end of oil could have worn the lifter pucks couldn't it?

I don't think I ever heard rod knock, I think I only ever heard ticking from up the top, which stoped when I put oil in it.

Its at the shop now anyway, i'll have a photo of my block decked soon. It wont compare with IJ.'s though.. :aigo:
 

NiGMa

New Member
May 4, 2007
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Australia
Guess what? I didn't have a BHG! but apparently i was getting combustion passing through the cylinders through the head gasket. and the head bolts were super loose.

What do you guys think about the block top? I couldn't see much corrosion.

It should be back from the machiners tomorrow.

enjoy the pictures.

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starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
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Hot and Humid, KY
Combustion gases passing through the cylinders through the head gasket you say? Um, yeah, that is called BHG ;). Don't assume the only BHG is one where coolant mixes with oil.
 

NiGMa

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May 4, 2007
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Australia
starscream5000 said:
Combustion gases passing through the cylinders through the head gasket you say? Um, yeah, that is called BHG ;). Don't assume the only BHG is one where coolant mixes with oil.

yeah, the mechanic explained that he could see marks inbetween the bores where the HG wasn't sealing. I just meant that a Blown Head Gasket in my mind normally means its blown somewhere, but as you can see, there are no breaks in the gasket.

The mechanic is putting a cometic head gasket in it with ARP bolts or studs.
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Are they gonna hone the cylinders for you? Is that ridge at the top of the cylinders very big? You can get a cutter just for that. Just make sure its done before they hone it.
 

NiGMa

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May 4, 2007
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Australia
cuel said:
Are they gonna hone the cylinders for you? Is that ridge at the top of the cylinders very big? You can get a cutter just for that. Just make sure its done before they hone it.

what ridge?

I'm getting a standard rebuild done, I don't know if honing the cylinders is included in that. I will ask.
 

NiGMa

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May 4, 2007
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Australia
supramacist said:
I wonder if you can tell if that is the og gasket, the stocker???
Some of those bad boys held.

The mechanic doesn't think its an original toyota. The place I bought this motor from 2 years ago put a new HG in it. Its just some composite cheapo I'd say.
 

cuel

Supramania Contributor
Jan 8, 2007
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Baytown, Texas
Yes, the bearing you show is worn pretty bad. Can't quite see brass yet, but its close. The cam journals look a little rough. You can mic. it, and compare it to the TSRM here: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=48 If its within specs, you may be able to smooth them down somewhat. Just make sure they don't become to small.

The ridge I mentioned is at the very top of the cylinder, inside of it. You can see it in the pics. Its the top part of the cylinder that is discolored. If you run your finger up the cylinder, you'll feel a bump at the top. The reason for it is that the rings gradually wear the cylinders up to a certain height, especially when the engine isn't oiling correctly(For instance, its constantly run low on oil, or the oil isn't changed at the correct intervals.). The ridge is where the rings haven't worn the cylinder down. Sometimes they are really bad, and sometimes they're nonexistent, depending on how well the engine was taken care of. Your mechanic can get a ridge reamer, which will cut the ridge out to the same size as the rest of the cylinder.
 

NiGMa

New Member
May 4, 2007
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Australia
cuel said:
Yes, the bearing you show is worn pretty bad. Can't quite see brass yet, but its close. The cam journals look a little rough. You can mic. it, and compare it to the TSRM here: http://cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=EM&P=48 If its within specs, you may be able to smooth them down somewhat. Just make sure they don't become to small.

The ridge I mentioned is at the very top of the cylinder, inside of it. You can see it in the pics. Its the top part of the cylinder that is discolored. If you run your finger up the cylinder, you'll feel a bump at the top. The reason for it is that the rings gradually wear the cylinders up to a certain height, especially when the engine isn't oiling correctly(For instance, its constantly run low on oil, or the oil isn't changed at the correct intervals.). The ridge is where the rings haven't worn the cylinder down. Sometimes they are really bad, and sometimes they're nonexistent, depending on how well the engine was taken care of. Your mechanic can get a ridge reamer, which will cut the ridge out to the same size as the rest of the cylinder.

Thanks for the link.

Oh that ridge, yes someone showed me how to feel for those. but the ridge is not where its discoloured, its lower from what I could tell. I can't wait to see it all cleaned.
 

NiGMa

New Member
May 4, 2007
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Australia
Well, I got the engine back a few weeks ago, approaching 2,000km's of highway driving and its been running quite well so far. The lifters were a little loud but in the last two days they went almost silent, strange, did some oil finally get up there?

I will be checking the torque to the head soon, the mechanic says the Cometic Head Gaskets don't normally need to be retorqued, but he is curious anyway to see if its loosened any.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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Denver, CO
If the bolts are new, retorque... if the HG is new, retorque. It's just cheap insurance and it doesn't take long.
 

supramacist

Banned
Apr 8, 2006
1,501
0
0
The Grassy Knole
There is an entire sect of people out there that discredit retorquing.
They all say they have put thousands of miles on their build with no retorque. Years a few them say they have been running without it.

It's a pain on an na so it has to be an even larger pita if your a gte.

Instead of contradicting me all the time explain this to me. Because their arguments seem logical. As do the retorque topics.

I personally plan to check mine for certain. But it's a compelling arguement.
I'm not trying to start anything guys. I'm just trying to learn truths.

I mean if you go arp studs from 0 to 85lbs. in 5 stages.
It seems logical that with the exception of the molly. That it would take alot to move those things.

How much do you cats think they could really move?

And if they do loosen. It makes sense that repetative heat cycles could move them further over time.

All I did was post an opinion, in a feeling out type of way.
Loosen up gents.

Are we asolutely positive it has to happen for reasons other than peace of mind?

That's my main reason for doing it, when the time comes.

How many heat cycles do you guys think need to happen before they get a chance to slip?
3 or 4.
 
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