i m soo annoyed!!, Moving to Plan B
- Thread starter fonz87
- Start date
yes i do have the water fall sound coming from the car. It sounds like that every morning when ever i have sometime hard time starting the car, it would sound like a water fall when i hit the gas a little
whatever fuck it.. since it's half open. lets just go all the away and replace the HG, if i don't.. it will stay in back of my mind.... i hate fuckin things stuck in back of my mind!!!
When I pulled apart my perfectly running, not overheating, not coolant using GTE in my red car, it was millimeters from actually blowing the seal around 2 of the water jackets. Even if you dont actually have a bad HG, if its stock and never been done its gonna need it anyway, one way or another.
If your goal is a nice running stockish motor, going with a OEM composite and ARP bolts torqued to 80ish lbs, it shouldnt be too expensive to do.
If your goal is a nice running stockish motor, going with a OEM composite and ARP bolts torqued to 80ish lbs, it shouldnt be too expensive to do.
i was thinkin 1.2 Hks MHG and Arp bolts still with a resurfaced head ??
will that work and i might clean the block a little.
will that work and i might clean the block a little.
Its unusual if not impossible to properly prep a block for a MHG without a complete teardown. There is a hard to find lapping block that has been used to prep the block surface in the car, but there are complications in that process.
The accepted method of doing a MLSHG is to have the block and head machined to the proper spec after complete disassembly. sorry for that bad news but thats the right way to do it.
If you pull the head, check the block and head for flatness and if acceptable clean and reinstall with a stock gasket, you should be able to expect a good end result with stock or BPU parts.
The accepted method of doing a MLSHG is to have the block and head machined to the proper spec after complete disassembly. sorry for that bad news but thats the right way to do it.
If you pull the head, check the block and head for flatness and if acceptable clean and reinstall with a stock gasket, you should be able to expect a good end result with stock or BPU parts.
So its the right way to use a stock HG without the block and head machined ?? Shouldnt that be done the same of doing a MHG ??
The block and head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected for pitting/flatness. If they pass then you don't need any machining, but since we have a very long head, and its aluminum its not unusual for the head to be slightly warped.
-=Fonz=-;1028149 said:
should? yes if you can, and have the motor out of the car and stripped down...sure you SHOULD machine the block and head. BUT, if you are trying to save time and money and dont have the means to do a complete rebuild then many times (not all, it depends on the condition of the parts) you can simply clean up the parts thoroughly and reassemble (with new hardware and torque specs).
I guess Im just trying to tell you, you have some options.
-=Fonz=-;1028195 said:
Head is aluminum, block is iron. The head will deform a lot more than the block ever will.
When you go MHG, you re-surface the block more for the actual smoothness of the surface than anything else.
so i m just better off with a OEM HG ??
what about the something like this off ebay ??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...024QQitemZ370051449752QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
what about the something like this off ebay ??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-9...024QQitemZ370051449752QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
I heard those are pretty cheap. I think you can get some nice gasket kits from Toyota but I haven't checked in awhile.
-=Fonz=-;1028445 said:
stay the fuck away! Nothing like putting everything together only to have to replace all your leaking gaskets a year later
man.... i m just ganna stick with what i planned to do...
1.2 mm hks MHG
Arp Bolts
Resurfaced head and ill check the block for smoothness and stuff.
1.2 mm hks MHG
Arp Bolts
Resurfaced head and ill check the block for smoothness and stuff.
