NewWestSupras;951731 said:
I've been told that the stock driveshaft will hold up fine...so no need to waste money there.
HP needed to beat a Camry - READ PLEASE and GIVE FORTH YOUR KNOWLEDGE
- Thread starter dezthumper
- Start date
I've been told that the stock driveshaft will hold up fine...so no need to waste money there.
DonS1mpson;951747 said:
I'd keep the V12 anytime. It's related to the V12 from the McLaren F1.
Very nice engine.
Ok, you're getting some decent advice here, but let me put it all together and add a bit more.
First up, that Camry isn't even vaguely close to a plain Jane people mover. It's a 270hp car that weighs in at 200lbs less than your Supra. That's nearly 40 extra ponies and a fair bit of weight.
You would need ~280 hp to match that without losing weight on your car. This is easy to accomplish, a drop in air filter and a full 3 inch exhaust (downpipe, high flow cat / test pipe, catback) will get you there. Actually, a DDP (Divorced Down Pipe) will likely put you over by a fair bit. Adding a manual boost controller - and for the power levels you are talking about, it's the best solution by far - will put you up around the 320 at the crank mark.
An exhaust that looks completely stock is not hard to come by.
I would avoid the HKS downpipe, it's rather more restrictive than anything else out there. I'd also avoid an EBC, they are a pain to connect and get properly set up, an MBC is a much better choice. For an exhaust, I'm actually reasonably impressed with the look of the dual output unit that ETS has just introduced. For downpipes, you cannot beat BIC's DDP. For a MBC, you cannot beat the unit that Dr.Jonez sells.
Living in Arizona, you need a filter that works for dust - the AEM dryflow is a good choice. The oil based filters, especially the K&N, should be avoided at all costs.
You will not need a new turbo, injectors, intercooler, hardpipes, or anything beyond these three parts. Your transmission should hold up fine. I can't say the same about your tires, though...
I'd be surprised if it takes more than $1000 to put your Supra back in the top spot.
PS: Keep some coin on the side just in case. Parts that could handle the strain just fine at 230hp are going to decide to retire early at 320hp. Particularly engine mounts - get them checked before you start these mods, and check them often... I snapped my first set at about that level.
First up, that Camry isn't even vaguely close to a plain Jane people mover. It's a 270hp car that weighs in at 200lbs less than your Supra. That's nearly 40 extra ponies and a fair bit of weight.
You would need ~280 hp to match that without losing weight on your car. This is easy to accomplish, a drop in air filter and a full 3 inch exhaust (downpipe, high flow cat / test pipe, catback) will get you there. Actually, a DDP (Divorced Down Pipe) will likely put you over by a fair bit. Adding a manual boost controller - and for the power levels you are talking about, it's the best solution by far - will put you up around the 320 at the crank mark.
An exhaust that looks completely stock is not hard to come by.
I would avoid the HKS downpipe, it's rather more restrictive than anything else out there. I'd also avoid an EBC, they are a pain to connect and get properly set up, an MBC is a much better choice. For an exhaust, I'm actually reasonably impressed with the look of the dual output unit that ETS has just introduced. For downpipes, you cannot beat BIC's DDP. For a MBC, you cannot beat the unit that Dr.Jonez sells.
Living in Arizona, you need a filter that works for dust - the AEM dryflow is a good choice. The oil based filters, especially the K&N, should be avoided at all costs.
You will not need a new turbo, injectors, intercooler, hardpipes, or anything beyond these three parts. Your transmission should hold up fine. I can't say the same about your tires, though...
I'd be surprised if it takes more than $1000 to put your Supra back in the top spot.
PS: Keep some coin on the side just in case. Parts that could handle the strain just fine at 230hp are going to decide to retire early at 320hp. Particularly engine mounts - get them checked before you start these mods, and check them often... I snapped my first set at about that level.
suprarcr89
The Juggernaut has my old
In my old black supra I had 2.5 exhaust with aftermarket straight through muffler, apexi power intake and 9psi.. with a gtec hooked up to it I did 0-60 in 5.6 but It was a 5spd though.... car I have now is much quicker with full 3"exhaust, intake, and 12 psi... not hard to get it to where you want at all...
grimjack's post summed it all up nice for you.. since you talking about 0-60 times and thought id give you something to go by a little....
grimjack's post summed it all up nice for you.. since you talking about 0-60 times and thought id give you something to go by a little....
Listen to Grimjack's advice. If you read his post, go back and read it again.
I had my stock waterpump take a dump on me a few days after I installed my 3" turbo back. Next will be the stock clutch.....
I had my stock waterpump take a dump on me a few days after I installed my 3" turbo back. Next will be the stock clutch.....
Kristian_Wraae;951752 said:
Actually it's the same bottom end, but the heads are completely different. Both Bentley and McLaren use this motor, but with 48 valve heads (4 valves per cylinder).
The motor is designated the S70 by BMW. The variant offered in the BMW 850 only put down 380 hp, which when you consider this was made with a 5.5 liter V12, that's not very impressive. Relatively low compression ratio (8.8:1) coupled with poorly flowing heads, 2 valves per cylinder, a luxury cam profile and a 4,000+ lb curb weight made this car a bit of a turd.
In 1990 BMW produced the S70/1 prototype engine for the never produced M8. This motor was a 6 liter, put down 550 hp and was rumored to have the 48V heads but with very mild cams. This motor was never mass produced by BMW and the M8 prototype was last reported in Giftschrank (loosely translated as 'poison-storage'). BMW had said this car would be destroyed (as are all non-produced BMW chassis) and it likely no longer exists.
The other two variants produced were used by McLaren are the S70/2 and S70/3. They were produced in 1993 and 1996 respectively. They were both 6 liter variants with 48 valve heads, higher compression (11:1) and more aggressive continuously variable quadruple overhead cams. (This system is almost a direct copy of the BMW VANOS system for the M3). The McLaren versions are also of a dry sump oiling system design.
They produced 627 hp and 635 hp respectively.
And yes, I'm also a BMW guy...
Some day I will take a BMW 850 and stuff some turbos on it and see what kind of monster I can create.Ma70.Ent;951656 said:
It's not just the 350 engine, it's the whole GR family of engines. I've been seeing a lot more problems with the 250 and 300, but that could just be because we sell more of those than the 350. On to the problems.
All of them are blowing a good deal of oil back into the intake, so much that it's causing so much buildup on the valves that on a 30k mile engine, they look like they have about 200k + miles. This causes a nice random misfire that eventually leads to the computer shutting that cylinder down until you restart the car. And I can't remember if it's the 250 or 350, but one of them has been breaking some valve springs. When they first came out they were having problems with the cam gears rattling on startup after a cold soak.
Don't get me wrong, I'm sure it could be a great engine if all the bugs were worked out, but if Lexus' solution to the misfire and buildup on the valves was to soak them in throttle body cleaner, I'm not a big fan. Even now, the solution they are going towards is just replacing the heads with new ones, that have slits cut in the valves to help them not stick in the guides and try to keep the possibility down for a misfire. They will smoke the tires though :biglaugh:
Supracentral;951776 said:
I love it when people come out of the closet and talk about the other cars they have passion for. Helps me paint a clearer picture of them.
GrimJack;951761 said:
wat
As for downpipes, get a ZW DDP.
[strike]www.zwm0t0rsp0rts.com[/strike]
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I'm serious. Anyone can install and set an MBC in 20 minutes. Most people will still be fussing with an EBC for months. Unless you need the extra in-car adjustability, they are a waste of time and money. The OP certainly does not need the extra features.ILikeCarsYesIDo;953978 said:
You have got to be shitting me. Zoon is about as reliable as a traveling vacuum cleaner salesman. He's been banned here for over a year, and for good reasons. He has:ILikeCarsYesIDo;953978 said:
- spammed members here trying to generate sales
- used multiple accounts to try to improve his reputation
- scammed members by selling them used parts that were not as advertised
You couldn't PAY me to do business with him.
GrimJack;953995 said:
I disagree here Grim. The reason I only run electronic boost controllers is I want accuracy. I want the same boost, every time, regardless of weather, temperature, barometer pressure etc. etc.
Manual boost controllers are notoriously inaccurate, and I'm not willing to risk a boost spike killing my motor.
You get what you pay for.
That's my 2 psi on the issue, your boost may vary.
Interesting. The OP is suprised that a lighter car with a bigger and more powerful engine can beat his. Suprised due to the name.
You have some decent reasonable advice, use it. Nice to see other clean mostly stock cars. Good work.
You have some decent reasonable advice, use it. Nice to see other clean mostly stock cars. Good work.