SC61, is there a part number? Looks like a good find if it was cheaper then OEM.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
How to Replace a MKIII Driveshaft Carrier Bearing for $50
- Thread starter destrux
- Start date
Yes if you could let us know if there is more available.
Any issues with fitment?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Any issues with fitment?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
That's what she said. Atleast its tight now. 
Just let me know if he has more or maybe a part number. Was it a known major name shop?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Just let me know if he has more or maybe a part number. Was it a known major name shop?
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
just wanted to say I did this today with a O'reilly bearing that crossed from the part number the OP posted. I had to open the holes up where it mounts to the body a little bit. but it worked just fine, loving not having the vibration at speed anymore.
did it just the other day, fits great. almost no guess work. had to trim my hoop bracket part i made one extra time and wallow out the bolt holes on it to get it just right but it works great and my part has a lifetime warranty.
Didn't work for me I bought an Anchor PN# 6062. It wouldn't slip into the tunnel. Seemed too wide. I found a company on eBay that sells an OE replacement type at 80 shipped. So I bought it and its yet to arrive.
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2
6062 fit in mine. the outside of the mounting tabs were scraping but i scraped some of the undercoat and it slid right in.
Just bought a 6062 from Advance Auto for $25 picked up at my local store. I'll see if I can get some time tomorrow to install and report back!
shipkiller;1997202 said:
Bummer. Can you provide any details on the exact part number, install method (spacers used, etc.)?
Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk
Bearing and mounting procedure was exactly the same as OP.
I even had the DS balanced. I'm thinking about putting the stock bearing back on the DS but using 3M window sealer to give strengh back to the ol' rubber housing.
I even had the DS balanced. I'm thinking about putting the stock bearing back on the DS but using 3M window sealer to give strengh back to the ol' rubber housing.
shipkiller;1997240 said:
I'll give the cheap Ranger bearing a try and if it fails quickly I'll re-evaluate either Yota OEM or really leaning on Frank at DSS to finish the two piece aluminum he started for me.
So far, the 6062 appears to be the right size. There is much less bushing material than the OEM style and the bearing sits much lower than the middle of the center of the OEM bushing. It's approximately the same length as the spacers as Destrux discovered so I'll just put the washers on the bolt side.
Time will tell. My OEM bushing is absolutely trashed so it can't be much worse...
I used a DEA A6002 Center Support Bearing. The rubber and bearing are the same but need to be swapped into the OEM housing. On both the DEA and the OEM bearing I drilled out the three spot welds, popped open the housing and swapped the new part in. I then welded the three holes up where I drilled out the spot welds and the painted it for corrosion prevention. It's been working great.
just read through this thread and there is a lot of great info! does anyone have anymore feedback on how the ranger bearing is working out? i took a look on rock auto, just for a laugh, and they list the center supports for about $57, only under the '87 and '88. from there crappy pics i believe this looks like the one out of my mk2, maybe i'm wrong, but has anyone ordered one of these and had success?
long story short, just looking for a cheaper fix that will hold up for a while until i can afford better just bought an awesome '87 turbo last week, trying to get her on the road!
long story short, just looking for a cheaper fix that will hold up for a while until i can afford better
just bought an awesome '87 turbo last week, trying to get her on the road!
My Anchor 6062 works great so far. About 500-1000 miles on it now and it's been smooth. It was under $30 from Advance Auto.
I very much doubt it will last as long as the OEM bushing/bearing simply because it is much thinner, but it definitely works as a relatively drop-in replacement option in the short term.
I'm still disappointed Frank at DSS wasn't able to come through with my 2 piece aluminum request, but the small $30 price tag has kept me happy overall.
I very much doubt it will last as long as the OEM bushing/bearing simply because it is much thinner, but it definitely works as a relatively drop-in replacement option in the short term.
I'm still disappointed Frank at DSS wasn't able to come through with my 2 piece aluminum request, but the small $30 price tag has kept me happy overall.