Doward said:
The OEM diff was refreshed in Duane's car a couple of years after he bought it. (almost 5 years on the rebuilt diff with over a couple of hundred passes on it. (just an estimate)
) No fluke there..just good old Toyota parts How strong is the stock rear end?
- Thread starter TargaMK3Turbo
- Start date
The OEM diff was refreshed in Duane's car a couple of years after he bought it. (almost 5 years on the rebuilt diff with over a couple of hundred passes on it. (just an estimate)
) No fluke there..just good old Toyota parts 
I have a question. How strong are the non-turbo rear end then? I am guessing non turbo rear end are nonLSD. My supra was a non turbo with a turbo motor drop in. Clutch is a stage 3 and the entire car is stock for now
Datsrboi said:I have a question. How strong are the non-turbo rear end then? I am guessing non turbo rear end are nonLSD. My supra was a non turbo with a turbo motor drop in. Clutch is a stage 3 and the entire car is stock for now
You could get an NA with an lsd rear end, you'll just have to look at the rear end. If it is an lsd it will have a sticker on it, unless it has fallen off.
91T breezen' said:The OEM diff was refreshed in Duane's car a couple of years after he bought it. (almost 5 years on the rebuilt diff with over a couple of hundred passes on it. (just an estimate)
Exactly my point then - Duane went through and freshened up the 20 year old differential - which is exactly what I'd recommend to anyone thinking of putting any serious power through it
I know its a rarity, but for the OP, a torsen rear (they are usually packaged w/4.10's from JDM cars - TTR and Turbo A, correct?) do NOT do well w/ drag launching. The worm gears within a torsen don't like shock loading - stick with the clutch type (which all US bound cars came with).
well he asked about durability of the rear, obvously a 500 thousand mile rear will be more likely to slip then a brand new piece, but generally speaking the MK3 Clutch type differential is very strong, and in rare instances do people break them.
rebuilding a rear wont make the metal less likely to shear, just less likely to slip.
Duane is using the same 20 year old Toyota factory carrier and hard parts, witch are handling the use. unless by freshening up you mean he replaced the carrier and other parts as well.
rebuilding a rear wont make the metal less likely to shear, just less likely to slip.
Duane is using the same 20 year old Toyota factory carrier and hard parts, witch are handling the use. unless by freshening up you mean he replaced the carrier and other parts as well.
bwest said:
Rare? I've got two sitting in the garage. One 4.10 and the 3.73 I'm building :naughty:
I'll probably sell one vs. swapping for different tracks but I wouldn't recommend the torsen for drag launching.
The problem with clutch types is the clutches wear over time/use. This leads to reduce torque bias and slipping. The work and parts are not cheap although the part still works just slips more than intended like my 3.93 has been doing for a while.
prsrcokr said:
id rather my rear wear out and roast one tire while driving home then sneeze parts threw the cover and have to be towed home a distance that takes 2.5 hours to drive. (E-Town, NJ to Long island, NY) Doesnt seem like a problem to me. hehehe
:thefinger
Sustained high speed runs or acceleration at high speed will kill the pinion bearings in the G series diffs, not an issue for the drag guys but road racers should be aware of this.
I found when accelerating at high speeds the Oil will run away from the Pinion bearings and they only last seconds when this happens...
I lost a rebuilt Torsen and a used LSD this way exact same failure in both.
I now run a pump and a cooler with the 9" that sprays the Oil back onto the Crownwheel which in the 9" splash feeds the Pinion bearings.
In a G series I suspect you'd have to drill the case and return the Oil between the Pinion bearings to make them live at high speed.
(sustained 250+ kmh/155+mph running)
I lost a rebuilt Torsen and a used LSD this way exact same failure in both.
I now run a pump and a cooler with the 9" that sprays the Oil back onto the Crownwheel which in the 9" splash feeds the Pinion bearings.
In a G series I suspect you'd have to drill the case and return the Oil between the Pinion bearings to make them live at high speed.
(sustained 250+ kmh/155+mph running)
wouldn't the Drag guys have to worry more about that from hard launches? i would suspect the longitudinal G force would be greatest at that point. I guess its not turning fast enough to cause much damage? Couldn't be that difficult to drill and tap the case above the pinion bearings to cure that though.
Chunks: It's more a case fo shaft speed/time without lube that kills them.
I doubt it would happen in a drag situation as you're only at a high shaft speed for minimal time before hitting the brakes and having the Oil rush forward into the Pinion bearings.
I doubt it would happen in a drag situation as you're only at a high shaft speed for minimal time before hitting the brakes and having the Oil rush forward into the Pinion bearings.
Cressida and Supras use the same diff. Theres a guy in Australia who dropped a JZ in his stock 1991 Cressida with 320,000 original KM and he's been racing it for 4 yrs currently doing high 9s in the 1/4mile.
http://www.1jz747.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=33
The diff is strong.
http://www.1jz747.com.au/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=24&Itemid=33
The diff is strong.
so i guess a twisted driveshaft is out of the question?
so if i launch my car on stickies with a freshened up rear and my w58 (im turbo by the way), the most probable failure would be the tranny?
so if i launch my car on stickies with a freshened up rear and my w58 (im turbo by the way), the most probable failure would be the tranny?
Ahh, overseas. I was wondering where you're able to do 150+ for extended times. I've done high speeds for extended periods on the clutch diff but not that high of a speed. Even most straights are ~1500-3000' so it's not that long of a run either. Now if you were autobahn/lakebed racing, that might be another story.
You know the front spindle/plate has groves to keep oil on the pinion bearings, I'm surprised this is a problem. (I'll post pics of the Torsen build soon so folks can see how a diff. is assembled)
You know the front spindle/plate has groves to keep oil on the pinion bearings, I'm surprised this is a problem. (I'll post pics of the Torsen build soon so folks can see how a diff. is assembled)