I am in the process of restoring an '87. I have the engine torn down to fix the low comp, the rod knock(no bearings left on #3), and clean off all the oil that leaked from the pan(couple bolts in the front weren't tight). During the pull down I checked the turbo for shaft play, and it does move up down a little, but not back and forth. I also noticed a chip in one of the blades. I am guessing that there shouldn't be any play at all, and I need a new one, so before buying one I figured I would ask. Also is there a rebuild kit for the stock turbo?
How much play is normal in a Stock Turbo shaft?
- Thread starter CATarga
- Start date
depends on how much shaft play you are talking about...impossible to really tell you anything without more details.
Yes their is rebuild kits for the ct-26 but rebuilding a turbo isn't something that "should" be done by a ameture....they need to be balanced and in most cases refitted....generally requires machinework....at which point I'd just send it to a reputable turbo shop like driftmotion.
Yes their is rebuild kits for the ct-26 but rebuilding a turbo isn't something that "should" be done by a ameture....they need to be balanced and in most cases refitted....generally requires machinework....at which point I'd just send it to a reputable turbo shop like driftmotion.
gaboonviper85;1128046 said:
It moves less than an 1/8", not sure if that is within specs or not.
After doing a search for rebuild kits I came across info about rebuild and the balance issue.
it depends. i have had CT26's that i thought were cooked that had a good bit of shaftplay when dry (no oil in them) that after they were put back in action had zero shaft play.
what concerns me more is the chip in a fin. thats out of balance and will need to be addressed. check out MDC or Driftmotion to get it rebuilt correctly. a rebuild kit is cheap but not something to be undertaken by the general owner.
what concerns me more is the chip in a fin. thats out of balance and will need to be addressed. check out MDC or Driftmotion to get it rebuilt correctly. a rebuild kit is cheap but not something to be undertaken by the general owner.
The movement is 45,000ths which appears to be fine according TEC(TurboEngineeringCorp), a local(3hrs away) turbo shop. They told me that 100,000ths or more is in need of a rebuild. They quoted me $425 for a rebuild if i needed one, is that high, or is that on par with drift motion?
Here is a pic of the damaged blade:
My goal for the car is to be a road car/canyon carver, with HP somewhere in the 400-450 range, with usable power at corner exiting rpms, but not so much torque that it isn't corner friendly. Is this going to be possible from the CT26?, I would rather not pay for a rebuild if I am going to need a different turbo for my plans. Unfortunately I am new to both turbos and the MKIII, so I have no experience to draw from, other than a test drive of an MKIV TT, and an MR2 Turbo about 14yrs ago, both different cars(hp/lbs) than the '87 I have.
Here is a pic of the damaged blade:
My goal for the car is to be a road car/canyon carver, with HP somewhere in the 400-450 range, with usable power at corner exiting rpms, but not so much torque that it isn't corner friendly. Is this going to be possible from the CT26?, I would rather not pay for a rebuild if I am going to need a different turbo for my plans. Unfortunately I am new to both turbos and the MKIII, so I have no experience to draw from, other than a test drive of an MKIV TT, and an MR2 Turbo about 14yrs ago, both different cars(hp/lbs) than the '87 I have.
0.18mm max, measure it through the oil drain hole with dial gauge
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=TC&P=14
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=TC&P=14
mk3ukr;1129516 said:
There is very little movement along the horizontal plane(axial). I used a dial caliper(no gauge on hand) to get the amount of radial movement. Th 47,000ths is equivalent to .119mm, still within specs. I have about a week before the crank gets back from being turned, and another few days before it will be back together, I think I will just run it for now if I don't find a good used one in the mean time, or until I figure out what size turbo I need/want.
.047" = 1.1938 mm
.18 mm = .0071" (7 thou)
I would take the TSRM over someone telling you that 0.1" is OK. I don't even think there is 0.1" of clearance around the compressor to the housing. Maybe why the chip is there?
.18 mm = .0071" (7 thou)
I would take the TSRM over someone telling you that 0.1" is OK. I don't even think there is 0.1" of clearance around the compressor to the housing. Maybe why the chip is there?
if your wanting to reach 400-450hp your going to need a larger turbo. and all the supporting mods.
suprafanatic;1130502 said:
Yes I am aware of the other mods/support mods.
What kind of Hp#'s does the stock CT26 support, with intake/exhaust mods?
Wo Wo Wo guy, did you research at all before even thinking of making that kind of power??? have you touched the headgasket yet? You should start here http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=63 and here http://supracentral.com/
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
CATarga;1130783 said:
Don't expect much over 300 hp with a stock CT26. You'd probably also need intercooler hardpipes to achieve that.
Neil W;1130439 said:
Mine measured 47,000ths(.0047), not 4700ths(.047).
There isn't any sign that the fin hit the side, no scarring, so I am not sure how it got chipped. MAy have been there from day one(unlikely given Toyota's Quality Control), or if something got into it since over time, all of the intake tubes were off when I got the car.
TheNewRed;1130863 said:
Yes I have been doing my research, best that I can finding info here and at SF. Given the weight of the car I figured 400-450hp(not rwhp) would be good target. I originally posted my plans(on other sites) and asked for advice for how someone would go about building a 400-450hp road car, and really didn't get the help I was looking for. I hoped I would get responses with "I did this and these were my results, but I didn't. I did get the following info though, but no general hp gains for the mods.
Stage 1
K&N high performance air filter kit
3 inch down pipe
3 inch exhaust
*Optional* Test Pipe(not likely an option here in CA)
*Recommended* 12 volt mod for fuel pump
Stage 2
Stage 1+
HKS BOV kit, or equivalent
3 inch turbo elbow
Boost controller
12 volt mod for fuel pump
*Recommended* Shocks and springs
*Recommended* Brake upgrade (pad's, and or lines)
*Highly Recommended* 3 inch test pipe, or high flow cat
Stage 3
Stage 2+
Intercooler Kit
Hard Pipes
Metal head gasket (required at this stage, may be needed for earlier stages)
ARP head studs, or bolts (studs recommended)
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump
*optional* Fuel pressure regulator
Any idea of what the hp gains one can expect(generally) from these mods. I know before upgrading to the Lexus AFM, i need to upgrade to 550cc injectors, but from what I understand they are only necessary if I want to go beyond 450hp, or are these mods needed to support 400-450?
I had planned to do the intake(using the stock intercooler) and exhaust, fuel pump/wiring, BOV, MHG and ARP studs, mods during the rebuild, and see how the car performs. Not sure if the boost controler is within my current budget or not(still have paint to buy).
CATarga;1131909 said:
Form what i've seen that list will put you in a solid relaible 300-350 range, and yes with a regulator, and as long as the injectors are in good shape they will support 400HP but from what i here its very iffy.
If you look around anywhere on this site you are going to bump into the infamous MHG, you need it if you plan on reaching power levels upwards of 300hp, and you need to do it right, a lot of planning goes into a MHG... like finding a machinest that can be trust worthy, and hit the marks required for one(50 ra or lower for most if not all) on the head and block. As far as the boost controller goes, it is one of the most useful tuning devices known to a turbo car.... hell its the heart of power gains on a BPU car, or any car for that matter, and you wont even touch 300 without one. There is a lot of planning that goes into these cars even for doing small stuff, like a BC. you have to realize and worry about things like hitting fuel cut, blowing the stock headgasket to kingdom come and destroying your bearings. one thing that everyone has learned including myself on this site, and its the one thing that ANY if not all of the mods will jump on your ass about is that these are 15+ year old cars, most having a bad matinence record, that need to have ALL OF THE PROBLEMS FIXED BEFORE modifying them.
most people reach 400hp by these mods.
New head gasket and ARPs
full 3in exhaust
boost controller
intake
hard pipes and IC
550s and lex afm
255 fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
wideband
safc for tuning
and an upgraded CT or aftermaket turbo
i might be missing somthing, thats just off the top of my head
New head gasket and ARPs
full 3in exhaust
boost controller
intake
hard pipes and IC
550s and lex afm
255 fuel pump
fuel pressure regulator
wideband
safc for tuning
and an upgraded CT or aftermaket turbo
i might be missing somthing, thats just off the top of my head
$400+ for a rebuild is high considering you can buy a rebuilt 57 trim ct26 from dm for $625 with NO core charge.
imho, step up to a bigger turbo. your gona max out the ct once you get all the small stuff fixed and everything is up to par. If you havent bought the safc yet, id hold off. its not gona be needed for a while.
and while everything is apart id heavily consider cermic coating everything on the exhaust side (at least to the cat) and then most all of the intake side as well (ic piping, intake mani's).
imho, step up to a bigger turbo. your gona max out the ct once you get all the small stuff fixed and everything is up to par. If you havent bought the safc yet, id hold off. its not gona be needed for a while.
and while everything is apart id heavily consider cermic coating everything on the exhaust side (at least to the cat) and then most all of the intake side as well (ic piping, intake mani's).
So basically the stock CT26 w/mods 1-3 will get me to about 350(give or take). Then I should go with the 550cc's, Lexus MAF, and a larger turbo to support the additional 100-150hp. This isn't bad at all. The first step will give me an idea of how much more I need, if any above 350(may want/not need it).
I also am aware of the issues w/the asbestos free HG, the same issue arose w/the 3.0 truck engine, only the availability of a MHG wasn't available until recently.
Basically the engine itself will be new, not sure if I am going to send the injectors out to be cleaned/rebuilt/balanced, or hold off and see if I am going to go w/550's, rather not waste a few $100 if I am not going to use them.
I also am aware of the issues w/the asbestos free HG, the same issue arose w/the 3.0 truck engine, only the availability of a MHG wasn't available until recently.
Basically the engine itself will be new, not sure if I am going to send the injectors out to be cleaned/rebuilt/balanced, or hold off and see if I am going to go w/550's, rather not waste a few $100 if I am not going to use them.