injectors aren't something fuck around with....get the 550's and be done with it....don't risk a rebuilt motor just cause you don't want to spend $500...blown motor can set you back $$$$!
How much play is normal in a Stock Turbo shaft?
- Thread starter CATarga
- Start date
CATarga;1133480 said:
Ok from my research (about a year of it now) here is a list of general things you will need to make your 400-450hp goals.
57trim ct upgraded turbo (stock is out of its effective range after 14psi)
atleast a 550cc injector (dont use venom)
Metal head gasket
ARP head studs
lexus MAF
BOV ( if you plan on keeping only stock electrical u have to vent back into the intake, or u will stall the car on a down shift more often than not.)
Air fuel controller, and wide band for tuning purposes.
Manual or electric boost controller (pick your poision)
A good aftermarket boost gauge ( stock one just blows )
Full exhaust system atleast 2.75 inches but preferably 3"
If you want actual HP gains from each part and or each stage you can figure the HP will vary based on AT or MT. But if you want block HP, figure and exhaust, K&N little things like that will gain about 10hp in reality. While you have the motor apart go with a metal or cometic head gasket, because they are better than stock, and will handle the power you are looking for. Head studs from ARP because well toy head bolts BLOW. The lexus MAF and 550 injectors will give you very little extra power without other mods being made. They are really there for the bigger turbo. If you are going for 400-450 get the 57trim upgrade for the CT-26, because it bolts right up to the stock exhaust mani, and you can get alot more useable boost out of it. The stock FMIC should be able to do OK for you, but you will need hard pipes for it, that u can get from cooleze or even have them made at a local shop. You will also want to upgrade your BOV, but do keep in mind that if your running a lexus MAF you will have to route the air from your BOV back to the intake piping before the turbo or you will run very rich when your BOV pops. Trying to skimp on a build like that may be very costly, so please do all of us a favor and do some more research before you get into a sticky situation. Do you really want to chance running lean by not putting in bigger injectors? Do u really want to chance blowing up a stock turbo because your trying to push it beyond its limits? Your turbo u showed is royally screwed. That blade is out of balance, and a turbo can spin at 100,000 RPM at boost, do u really want something out of balance to be spinning that fast? And I would suggest a mild cam while your at it, but that is my own personal opinion. All the boost and fuel isnt going to mean much if your cams arent keeping your valves open long enough to let it all in the cylinder. Just my 2 cents.
CATarga;1131909 said:
Also, you can Build your own manual boost controller for like 15 bux. Google DIY boost controllers. There is one on a DSM website that will walk you thru doing a complete parts list and how to assemble it to get it to work. And the fuel pump rewire is simple, and cheap too. But please make sure your machinist knows that your putting a MHG on your motor if your going metal, and that the surface of both the block and head are basically glass smooth. I believe its an Ra value of 12 or better. http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
That is the link to the Manual boost controller that was on the DSM site. Double check your work, and def do a suspension upgrade if your planning on carving corners (but im willing to bet you already knew that) and enjoy your car. I think you will create a lil to much low end tq to really get into it to hard tho.
rawmk3;1133912 said:
Ra of 30 or better...your not going to get an ra of 12 on a sand cast aluminum very easily!...it would take polish compound to even come close to that!