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How hard is it to change engine mounts while the engine is in the car???
- Thread starter chriso
- Start date
Yes you feel the motor more with solid mounts..... at idle, when it is reving, when it is under boost, basically all the time you will feel the motor running and vibrating everything in the car including you LOL
It's not THAT bad but it can be very annoying in a daily driver and all your passengers will comment on it. Here is another possibility:
They are completely shrouded in a metal case so they will not break, and they cost less then the stock mounts, almost 1/2 the price! They do have a rubber isolator inside but it will not seperate like stock ones do. They are a easy fit for 89-up Supras, 7m or 1jz.
We even did some slight modifications and put a set on the 7m-gte Cressida we are building:
THey are Mk4 TT motor mounts and can be purchased at any Toyota dealer.
It's not THAT bad but it can be very annoying in a daily driver and all your passengers will comment on it. Here is another possibility:
They are completely shrouded in a metal case so they will not break, and they cost less then the stock mounts, almost 1/2 the price! They do have a rubber isolator inside but it will not seperate like stock ones do. They are a easy fit for 89-up Supras, 7m or 1jz.
We even did some slight modifications and put a set on the 7m-gte Cressida we are building:
THey are Mk4 TT motor mounts and can be purchased at any Toyota dealer.
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You feel the solids for sure - the steering wheel and stick shift both vibrate a fair bit. It makes the car feel a lot more like a race car instead of a touring car. It's not for everyone, but I love it!
If you were nearby, I'd let you take 'em for a spin.
If you were nearby, I'd let you take 'em for a spin.
Wow, I didn't even think they would work. You say they are an "easy fit"....does that mean they are a "direct bolt-in", no mods at all???bigaaron said:Yes you feel the motor more with solid mounts..... at idle, when it is reving, when it is under boost, basically all the time you will feel the motor running and vibrating everything in the car including you LOL
It's not THAT bad but it can be very annoying in a daily driver and all your passengers will comment on it. Here is another possibility:
They are completely shrouded in a metal case so they will not break, and they cost less then the stock mounts, almost 1/2 the price! They do have a rubber isolator inside but it will not seperate like stock ones do. They are a easy fit for 89-up Supras, 7m or 1jz.
We even did some slight modifications and put a set on the 7m-gte Cressida we are building:
THey are Mk4 TT motor mounts and can be purchased at any Toyota dealer.
wardog said:
Another Driftmotion solution :biglaugh: 98 mk4 TT motor mounts fit late 89-92 mk3 Supra 7m or 1jz. They are too tall for the 86-early89 mk3. You just need to cut off the little aluminum tab on the bottom.
Does drift motion sell these mounts or should I go to Elmhurst or Jay Marks to get them?bigaaron said:
I can get them for you for $60 ea, plus shipping. I am not sure if that is the best price anywhere but I'm sure it's not bad.
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bigaaron,
when you say the MKIV motor mount is too tall for the pre-89s, how tall are they? Did you by chance get to compare the total height of the MKIV mount to an 89+ mount? I guess they can't be too much taller or shorter if they still fit in the stock mounting slots, but I was just curious if it would drop the engine any in an 89+...
when you say the MKIV motor mount is too tall for the pre-89s, how tall are they? Did you by chance get to compare the total height of the MKIV mount to an 89+ mount? I guess they can't be too much taller or shorter if they still fit in the stock mounting slots, but I was just curious if it would drop the engine any in an 89+...
d*mn and I spent $90 EACH (10% over cost) for my stockers...that's $180 worth of motor mount for stocks. I was thinking about going with solid mounts but I'm not ready just yet...someday. I like the mkiv mounts idea though. Great going guys!
Yeha, me too...I replaced my stockers with oem MKIII mounts ($$$) but I still worry about them tearing. I wish I had known about the MKIV mounts when I did mine.
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Sorry for bring up this old thread... Wanted to swap out my broken 89+ engine mounts and replace them with Aaron's Mk4 versions. Glad to find out I need to shave off the nipple, but my real problem is getting the 17mm top nut loose from the mount while the engine is still in the car. There is so little space as well as no room for a large breaker bar or something to apply enough force to loosen that rusted on top nut. I can fit a 3/8 drive ratchet/socket or a 17mm key, but there is no room to apply any force.
Will dropping the subframe while holding up the engine on a jack give me more turning room for the ratchet/wrench? I'm at a loss here as I even tried a leverage solution through the hole in the subrame against the ratchet with my 2 feet... didn't budge. I am a little reluctant to use a torch as one side has the turbo oil time and the other side the fuel tube.
Any tips and hints or even solutions?
Thanks
Will dropping the subframe while holding up the engine on a jack give me more turning room for the ratchet/wrench? I'm at a loss here as I even tried a leverage solution through the hole in the subrame against the ratchet with my 2 feet... didn't budge. I am a little reluctant to use a torch as one side has the turbo oil time and the other side the fuel tube.
Any tips and hints or even solutions?
Thanks
Wow this is an old thread (along with old pricing btw)! When we sell them these days we cut off the lower pin for you. All you would need to do is support the engine and unbolt the engine mount bracket from the block one at a time, and then bolt them back on the block with the mount in place. I don't think you can pick up the engine high enough to install them otherwise, and dropping the subframe is a bit of a pita.
Thanks Aaron, I'll double check mine but I thought I saw a nipple on the trianglular pad. Unbolting the mounts from the block doesn't sound much easier as there is the exhaust manifold brace and filter are in the way on one side.. I'm sure the other side is ugly too.
Aaron, I checked my mounts and there is a nipple on both sides, which do I cut off, triangular pad side or the top round side or both?
I did it a few months ago and I didn't cut anything, didn't even know this thread existed... just do as arron stated on the first page. That's how I did it.