How do you hold 1500+hp on your bottom end? PICS
- Thread starter suprarich
- Start date
suprarich said:
Screw the supras, i want to work on (and ride) the Fuel Harley.....:evil2: :evil2: :evil2:
I don't want to work on supras all day. I want to make go fast parts for my own car in the off time 
Sorry guys to enter in this topic late but I just was surfing around and have seen this topic were I felt that it is imporant to contribute in this topic.
I am very proud that I have found a good and friend person Suprarich and I suggest that if you want to build a good motor ask for him.I am building a motor for 1800hp on vp racing fuel only and Suprarich is the person behind this procject that with his intellegence that he is offering me I am able to take the advange and make the 7M go to 1800hp on VP Racing fuel not methanol.
The engine is being build slowly as I still have many progress on my recent engine were right now I have 1340hp @ 40psi and I have more to tune and hoping to give 60psi boost.
I am very proud that I have found a good and friend person Suprarich and I suggest that if you want to build a good motor ask for him.I am building a motor for 1800hp on vp racing fuel only and Suprarich is the person behind this procject that with his intellegence that he is offering me I am able to take the advange and make the 7M go to 1800hp on VP Racing fuel not methanol.
The engine is being build slowly as I still have many progress on my recent engine were right now I have 1340hp @ 40psi and I have more to tune and hoping to give 60psi boost.
7Mboost said:
haha, nice, if you have to ask, you can't afford it. beerfest is a wonderful movie
Mibrum, are you running a compound turbo setup at those elevated boost levels? Or just one big mofo of a turbo?
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Ok, your going to kick my ass for even bringing this up, but while staring at the engine one early morning, and some newer designs with cross bolted mains, it hit me.
Just make the main caps much taller.
Make a girdle that moves the stock oil pan lower, or removes it completely leaving a flat pan area for a custom oil pan.
The taller main caps would then be cross bolted into the new taller oil rail girdle....
Oil pump is an issue, but if you are running a dry sump, this becomes a non issue.... (And your new oil pan is now just a flat plate in theory, as your oil pan/scavange ports could be part of the girdle...)
Would be less machine work than trying to match the curve of the caps too...
I would stud all the oil pan bolts, perhaps even change the design/angle of the ones on the ends where they are now curved/angled, and put them out straight so you could use the oil pan bolts to help clamp the girdle in place, then clamp the mains on the studs, and then cross bolt the mains through the girdle.. (It would take threaded holes in the mains, and you could not run the bolts through them, but could use studs into each main, then clamp them sideways to the girdle/pan/dry sump setup...)
This should be a very strong lower with main caps that are the same thickness, but with say 3" or more and a flat/square ended profile with cutouts/reliefs for the main stud nuts/washers in them so the "pan" plate would fit flush. The side bolts would be attached into material on the sides of the caps, and they could be designed into a wedge, or V so they actually help clamp the girdle into place as they are installed, and then cross bolted and further locked into place to the girdle/block...
Picture a recessed machine screw shape attached to the top of each main cap, but sticking up about 3" more... with two areas cut out for the stud nuts, and the sides drilled and threaded for studs that go out sideways to be cross bolted to the girdle...
Much less work than the curved/complex shapes to match those very cool billet main caps...
I'm sure you love hearing this idea now right
Just make the main caps much taller.
Make a girdle that moves the stock oil pan lower, or removes it completely leaving a flat pan area for a custom oil pan.
The taller main caps would then be cross bolted into the new taller oil rail girdle....
Oil pump is an issue, but if you are running a dry sump, this becomes a non issue.... (And your new oil pan is now just a flat plate in theory, as your oil pan/scavange ports could be part of the girdle...)
Would be less machine work than trying to match the curve of the caps too...
I would stud all the oil pan bolts, perhaps even change the design/angle of the ones on the ends where they are now curved/angled, and put them out straight so you could use the oil pan bolts to help clamp the girdle in place, then clamp the mains on the studs, and then cross bolt the mains through the girdle.. (It would take threaded holes in the mains, and you could not run the bolts through them, but could use studs into each main, then clamp them sideways to the girdle/pan/dry sump setup...)
This should be a very strong lower with main caps that are the same thickness, but with say 3" or more and a flat/square ended profile with cutouts/reliefs for the main stud nuts/washers in them so the "pan" plate would fit flush. The side bolts would be attached into material on the sides of the caps, and they could be designed into a wedge, or V so they actually help clamp the girdle into place as they are installed, and then cross bolted and further locked into place to the girdle/block...
Picture a recessed machine screw shape attached to the top of each main cap, but sticking up about 3" more... with two areas cut out for the stud nuts, and the sides drilled and threaded for studs that go out sideways to be cross bolted to the girdle...
Much less work than the curved/complex shapes to match those very cool billet main caps...
I'm sure you love hearing this idea now right
what a idea adjuster whens the group buy
1. supraguru05 10000 (paid)
j/k
i havent gone outside to look at a block to think your idea through but the vision im seeing of what you described is bolting the maincaps to the block as from the factory and then bolting them to a girdle which is bolted to the oil pan rails
sounds interesting and without really thinking it through i can tell you i dont like the idea of placing any load like that on the pan rails the mainbolts bolt to the blocks central ribs which can carry quite a load but the pan rails tend to have some frequency stresses namely at the ends
1. supraguru05 10000 (paid)
j/k
i havent gone outside to look at a block to think your idea through but the vision im seeing of what you described is bolting the maincaps to the block as from the factory and then bolting them to a girdle which is bolted to the oil pan rails
sounds interesting and without really thinking it through i can tell you i dont like the idea of placing any load like that on the pan rails the mainbolts bolt to the blocks central ribs which can carry quite a load but the pan rails tend to have some frequency stresses namely at the ends
Adjuster - Gary's motor is a dry sump and this was made to fit his motor and sump pan as he has it now. Remeber, the taller the cap, the less ridgid.
The next move is a soild piece. The caps and girdle as one soild mass cut from one giant piece of 4340. Then some day I will talk him into a billet 5160 steel crank.
The next move is a soild piece. The caps and girdle as one soild mass cut from one giant piece of 4340. Then some day I will talk him into a billet 5160 steel crank.