How do I fix Check Engine Light - Bulb is Good
- Thread starter ForcedTorque
- Start date
Wow... ok, get the flamethrowers ready guys... I could have sworn I checked this...
There was no bulb in the CEL spot on my turbo dash. So I swapped the one from my N/A dash. And presto.... CEL.
So now I am running diagnostics and I get codes 32 and 51. Currently researching them now.
There was no bulb in the CEL spot on my turbo dash. So I swapped the one from my N/A dash. And presto.... CEL.
So now I am running diagnostics and I get codes 32 and 51. Currently researching them now.
Ok, so I have found the following:
32 - Air flow meter, Air flow circuit, or ECU. Possible open circuit in E2 or short circuit between VC and VS.
51 - A/C switch, A/C switch circuit, A/C amplifier, TPS & circuit, or ECU. No 'IDL' signal, no 'NSW', or no 'A/C' signal to ecu during diag check.
Off to do some research now. Hope it won't be too difficult.
32 - Air flow meter, Air flow circuit, or ECU. Possible open circuit in E2 or short circuit between VC and VS.
51 - A/C switch, A/C switch circuit, A/C amplifier, TPS & circuit, or ECU. No 'IDL' signal, no 'NSW', or no 'A/C' signal to ecu during diag check.
Off to do some research now. Hope it won't be too difficult.
Ok, so code 32 is due to me having no HAC which I expected.
Now code 51 is really annoying. It can't be the NSW because this is no A/T car, nor is it an A/T transmission. I do not have an A/C system right now, so that may be it. So that just leaves the TPS.... Currently working on this.
Now code 51 is really annoying. It can't be the NSW because this is no A/T car, nor is it an A/T transmission. I do not have an A/C system right now, so that may be it. So that just leaves the TPS.... Currently working on this.
51 could be as simple as having your foot on the gas pedal, or the buttons on you A/C system not being in the OFF position. It is a very common code. Pull you EFI fusefor 30 seconds, and pull codes again.
32 - You need the HAC sensor. Your ECU makes adjustments to your fuel map through it.
32 - You need the HAC sensor. Your ECU makes adjustments to your fuel map through it.
The car will run without the HAC sensor, but it appears the code 51 is a little more complicated in my case. I will be resetting the TPS to tsrm spec and making sure my IAC is properly done as well. some of the wires are a bit scary lol
Although I WAS able to get her going a little bit after filling her up with 4 gallons of 93, but no more than a few seconds and it wasn't a very smooth burn.
Although I WAS able to get her going a little bit after filling her up with 4 gallons of 93, but no more than a few seconds and it wasn't a very smooth burn.
Listen to you, "pull the EFI fuse for 30 seconds" LOL!
So I'm guessing your car runs now ForcedTorque?
So I'm guessing your car runs now ForcedTorque?
Ok, final update until she runs, I have a new TPS sensor from Applesauce and I am buying Forcefedsupra's MAFT system (Thanks guys!), but I am still searching locally for that damn HAC...
Good luck Forced!
Good luck Forced!
DeadlyWrenches;1491071 said:
Nope, not running yet! I have the battery charger on the battery now for a start attempt with power through the EFI. It will turn over all day with my battery that is relocated to the hatch, but not start. I also get no voltage to my igniter, so I'm wondering if giving it power this way will get me power to the igniter, and thus start.
I've had a many Supras before this one. So, resetting the ECU while checking codes is well known. Whatever my problem is now, I have not experienced yet.
I guess I need to investigate how to get power to these two parts with the EFI fuse in place.
MAFT or MAFT Pro? The Pro system allows you to bypass the HAC sensor, so you wouldn't need to find one...Nghty89;1491167 said:
If you're going MAFT basic, try finding one from the guys who have gone MAFT Pro. Anyone with a pre 89 will likely just have it unplugged and still mounted under the glovebox.
It's just the MAFT basic. I figured I'd jump on it while I could before someone else bought it since it fits in with my upgrade plans. I may have a lead on a HAC sensor locally, I will know in 24 hours. If not, then I will be scouring the forums
OK, Well I got the car to run! First I tried to start it with power applied through the EFI fuse port. As soon as I turned the key, it blew the 15 amp inline fuse. I replaced the fuse, and went to hook it up to see if it would blow again. That's when, I spotted my CPS unplugged!!!!! I tested the CPS deep into my search for the problem, so it was not the main problem. But, I plugged it up, and used the cars main battery, and it started up pretty quickly. I was able to back it out of my carport, and turn it around for easier access and lighting for further work. When I did that, the EFI fuse was still out of it's socket. I had 12.65 volts in the battery, but only 4.35 at the EFI port. Is that normal?
I still have no CEL. I also don't have a tach, except for on my NEO. And, my idle was around 2400. We are supposed to have 4-6 inches of rain tonight and tomorrow. But, my next step is going to be an attempt at setting my TPS. Should I be scared of that if following the TSRM as a shade tree Supra mechanic?
I still have no CEL. I also don't have a tach, except for on my NEO. And, my idle was around 2400. We are supposed to have 4-6 inches of rain tonight and tomorrow. But, my next step is going to be an attempt at setting my TPS. Should I be scared of that if following the TSRM as a shade tree Supra mechanic?
I see multiple problems going on with your car.
First, you are not getting 12volts through the EFI circuit. I would follow the factory wiring back to the battery until I found out why. You stated you have relocated the battery. This throws a red flag.
Second, your factory 15A EFI fuse was good, yet now when you bypass it and run fused 12volts through a custom 12volt source you blew the fuse. Some where in the EFI circuit there is a short to ground. I would check the area of the harness near the EGR valve for any signs of charring/melting. You stated you custom built your harness, depinning and such, yet your electrical knowledge seems limited. Are you sure the harness was assembled correctly?
First, you are not getting 12volts through the EFI circuit. I would follow the factory wiring back to the battery until I found out why. You stated you have relocated the battery. This throws a red flag.
Second, your factory 15A EFI fuse was good, yet now when you bypass it and run fused 12volts through a custom 12volt source you blew the fuse. Some where in the EFI circuit there is a short to ground. I would check the area of the harness near the EGR valve for any signs of charring/melting. You stated you custom built your harness, depinning and such, yet your electrical knowledge seems limited. Are you sure the harness was assembled correctly?
Congrats on a little bit of progress.
I agree with Deadly. Start with what was fucked with first a.k.a. the Harness and battery relocate appear to be the biggest things.
As for the TPS calibration, I am performing this tomorrow morning on the new one. It's easy, you just need a clean TB, a good TPS sensor, a multimeter, and a set of feeler gauges (mm sizes). Make sure to follow the calibration thread here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97689&highlight=throttle+calibrate
I agree with Deadly. Start with what was fucked with first a.k.a. the Harness and battery relocate appear to be the biggest things.
As for the TPS calibration, I am performing this tomorrow morning on the new one. It's easy, you just need a clean TB, a good TPS sensor, a multimeter, and a set of feeler gauges (mm sizes). Make sure to follow the calibration thread here:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97689&highlight=throttle+calibrate
DeadlyWrenches;1491748 said:
First, I didn't do the relocation of the battery, and if it was as simple as it seems, I would have put it back already. I bought the car as a shell, and it was previously a 700HP beast. He cut out the metal where the battery should go for the routing of his intercooler piping with a FFIM.
As for following the factory wiring to the battery, I don't know which wire I need to test, and from where to where. And yes, my electrical knowledge is limited. But, this car is teaching a little bit with the help I get from guys like you. I do appreciate it.
DeadlyWrenches;1491748 said:
Rain and time kept me away from it today. My harness is a little more than a year old. That doesn't rule out a problem for sure. I have my doubts on the re-pinning though. I used the information in the link below to do the re-pinning, but did have a few obstacles along the way. I matched what I had to the plugs in the car to be sure. But, I did have a couple of wires that went unused (A pink one and a grey). The biggest question mark I have on the whole thing is in the B1. There are two black wires with a red stripe, and I question if I have them correct. They appear in the picture as if they are different thicknesses, but they are just alike.
Now, about the blowing of the fuse. I assume that it blew the fuse because I had a very small wire running from a battery to the socket. I don't know if was suitable for starting the car. I'm not sure that it was a symptom of the problem. The wire I used was not even a stranded wire. It was a single thick strand like a ground wire. It was a left over wire from an electric dog fence. It had a male blade type connector on one end for use in the fuse socket. I stripped a good bit of the other end, and wrapped it around the positive post on the battery. Of course there was the fuse in the middle of all that. So, I could have had a loose connection at either end causing the blown fuse.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99311
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One just went up for sale here, $20.Nghty89;1491358 said:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114748
OK, so I may have just found a problem. I chased the small white ground wire from the fuse box to ground, and found it to have continuity all the way to the plug at the fuse box. I can't get continuity from the EFI port on either side to the ground. Other fuses in the box will get continuity to the ground from one side or the other.
Does this tell me that I have an open in my fuse box itself?
I think I have a spare fuse box in my shed. Are they all created equal over the years of the MKIII? I'm not sure where my spare would have come from.
Does this tell me that I have an open in my fuse box itself?
I think I have a spare fuse box in my shed. Are they all created equal over the years of the MKIII? I'm not sure where my spare would have come from.
Im running into the same probs as well, no CEL, tach, and no start. Im going to check ground at my EFI port and see if I have the same prob there as well.
looking for any updates or more info on this problem.
I am currently having this issue with my car.
Will start and run on the CSI but the injectors arnt firing.
My tach and CEL dont work.
Checked all the fuses and they're fine.
What fixed your problems?
I am currently having this issue with my car.
Will start and run on the CSI but the injectors arnt firing.
My tach and CEL dont work.
Checked all the fuses and they're fine.
What fixed your problems?