I am currently having this trouble as well. No ECU light, but it is a good bulb and cluster. Currently working through the tests. My clock is fine though. Engine cranks great, tries to fire, and then dies...
How do I fix Check Engine Light - Bulb is Good
- Thread starter ForcedTorque
- Start date
I do now have a working clock. I did some testing back when the last post was in here. I reported to Jeff (lewis263547?) through PM. My findings were confusing to me, and I promised him I would redo them and report back. But, the holidays have been very hectic, and I have not done it. It's cold as piss for south Bama tonight, but I did get a cool new light for Christmas that I may try out after the family supper.
I have received some advice from a friend locally:
Find an ecu pinout (http://www.turboninjas.com/gallery/James/Cars/Mk3Supra/pre89ecu.gif.html) and use a multimeter to check what is getting power and when. He mentioned something about the pump turning on when you put the key to 'on', but it stopping once you crank. This doesn't explain no CEL, so I plan on also checking for power and all the basics. I may have some broken wires so we will see... I will post my findings, maybe it will help you too?
Find an ecu pinout (http://www.turboninjas.com/gallery/James/Cars/Mk3Supra/pre89ecu.gif.html) and use a multimeter to check what is getting power and when. He mentioned something about the pump turning on when you put the key to 'on', but it stopping once you crank. This doesn't explain no CEL, so I plan on also checking for power and all the basics. I may have some broken wires so we will see... I will post my findings, maybe it will help you too?
So far, no luck. I have printed the TSRM electrical wiring and taped it together so I have 2 11"x36" sheets of paper, one for the 7mge and one for the 7mgte. I see few differences in wiring when it comes to what is connected to the body harness. I have a few ideas and things to try, but 10-10 work days and 20 degree weather are currently keeping me from having the enthusiasm to find the issue... I have not had a chance to test with a multimeter, but I did find that the fuel pump relay was previously held together by duct tape... I will be buying a new one lol
Ok so I had a friend swing by and take a look at my wiring. He does not want to fix it, even if I pay him. lol BUT we did find that the ecu has power going to it via the E01 and E02, the EFI fuse has power, and the fuel pump IS working. We did not have a noid light so we were unable to check the injectors for pulse signal. Still no CEL. I have a feeling the ecu is getting power, but it's not going anywhere to be of any use...
Anyone have a mint or even brand new 7mgte engine harness?
Anyone have a mint or even brand new 7mgte engine harness?
There is a new one for sale in the for sale section, but his price is really high. I think people have him ready to take offers though. It is for an 89.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get back to work on mine. It's been way too cold for for us in Bama for a couple of weeks now. It's warmed up nice this afternoon, but things are going crazy today, so I can't work on it yet.
Hopefully tomorrow I can get back to work on mine. It's been way too cold for for us in Bama for a couple of weeks now. It's warmed up nice this afternoon, but things are going crazy today, so I can't work on it yet.
Too bad, I can only use the 87 harness.
Good luck man, I hope you figure it out. Don't feel bad about the weather, it's been 20-35 here for 2 weeks. I stayed in all weekend playing MW2 for PC and killing Mike's Lemonades left and right.
Good luck man, I hope you figure it out. Don't feel bad about the weather, it's been 20-35 here for 2 weeks. I stayed in all weekend playing MW2 for PC and killing Mike's Lemonades left and right.
Please for give me if it has been covered but your car is acting like it would if the 15A EFI fuse was missing from junction box no.2. Have you checked for 12V at the 15A EFI fuse in J/B no.2? J/B no.2 is the one under the hood. If it doesn't have 12VDC, apply 12V manually to the circuit with a 15A fuse between the 12V source and the end you stick in the box. And see if the check engine light turns on. If it does have 12VDC at that point I would look forward from there on that circuit and find where the open is, paying attention to the black wire with the yellow stripe. If all that checks out, I would check the ground for the EFI main relay which is in J/B no.2 and the ground is a white wire with a black stripe that terminates at the left fender.
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Thank you very much for the new direction!!
That has not been covered yet, but I have at least checked the fuse and checked that the ground wire had good connection. I'm leaving the house in just a minute, but I will hopefully be checking the rest tonight.
That has not been covered yet, but I have at least checked the fuse and checked that the ground wire had good connection. I'm leaving the house in just a minute, but I will hopefully be checking the rest tonight.
OK, I found that I don't have 12 Volts at the EFI fuse, and I do have a good ground. I'll apply 12 volts tomorrow, as it has become dark now.
What is strange to me, is the fact that my fuel pump has been working. Should that be happening if I don't have power the that fuse?
What is strange to me, is the fact that my fuel pump has been working. Should that be happening if I don't have power the that fuse?
Weird.... I will try the same thing when I get home. I'll go directly from the battery to the side for the ECU so that I have a good 12 volt source. If I get a CEL, then I guess I will have found the problem. Thanks as well for the direction on that one!
Don't feel abnormal, my fuel pump is turning on too. Now what it does after the initial turn-on, I have no idea... 0.o
Ninja Edit: I did test for power and it is there, but I will still attempt this to see what happens. I am also getting a different engine harness tomorrow.
Don't feel abnormal, my fuel pump is turning on too. Now what it does after the initial turn-on, I have no idea... 0.o
Ninja Edit: I did test for power and it is there, but I will still attempt this to see what happens. I am also getting a different engine harness tomorrow.
Anybody know which side I need to apply 12 volts to? And, If my CEL does light up, what then do I do to correct the problem?
It doesn't matter which way you apply 12VDC, because one side of the fuse is input and the other side is output. And since the input is 12VDC anyway, if you apply it to the input nothing will happen because as you stated, you have an open circuit on the input side of the 15A EFI fuse. Be sure to fuse the 12VDC source with a 15A fuse if you do apply 12V manually.
I would start digging into the fuse box, paying close attention to the input side of the EFI 15A fuse whose origin is the positive battery terminal going to the 30A AM2 fuse. That is where the 15A EFI fuse's input comes from.
I would start digging into the fuse box, paying close attention to the input side of the EFI 15A fuse whose origin is the positive battery terminal going to the 30A AM2 fuse. That is where the 15A EFI fuse's input comes from.
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DeadlyWrenches;1489522 said:
Would this be discounted by the E01 and E02 wires on the ECU testing positive for 12v's?
E01 and 2 are the grounds for the ecu which are mounted on the intake manifold.
Nghty89 you stated you have 12V at the EFI fuse, so I would not be looking there if I were you.
Nghty89 you stated you have 12V at the EFI fuse, so I would not be looking there if I were you.
All right, I got power run into the car that way. But, the battery I used was down to 10.99 Volts. My battery is relocated to the back, so I used a spare. Anyway, I got power to the whole dash, but still no CEL. I will put my charger on the spare, and see if it will at least start with power applied like this.
DeadlyWrenches;1489543 said:
That's why I asked if it applied before I did it :sarcasm:
So if those are the grounds, then it would stand to reason that my ecu IS getting and putting out power.... but why, then, is there no CEL, and no oil psi reading? I still have to use a noid light on the injectors to check for pulsing. Nobody has answered me yet as to WHICH connectors hook up to the body harness, and what the plugs look like. I have several just hanging there and 4 plugs hooked up to the harness. There is a large, cube-ish plug that is hooked up as well. But that still leaves me with 2-4 plugs dangling.... One appears to be the HAC sensor (black 3 wire plug), one is white and long (length-wise), and another is a small yellow one iirc.... I have a picture posted in a different thread.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114036 <-- WTF ARE THESE AND WHERE DO THEY GO!? lol Obviously 4 of them are for the ecu, one for the HAC, but what EXACTLY are the others for? Maybe if someone illustrated a little in MS Paint this would help? lol
Ooooohhhhh Iiiiiiiaaaaaannnnnn! :naughty: Or anyone else who knows?
I haven't messed with a 86-88 for a while, but I'm pretty sure that only 3 plugs go to the ECU. The rest of them have a mate under your dash somewhere. They like to hide, but they are there somewhere. You know one of them is the HAC, and I'm assuming you know which ones go to the ECU. If you have to, drop the ABS ECU and look under there, They like to hide there, and also up on the top of the heater core and such.