i have an 86.5 i have an open diff as well im buying a turbo lsd off of someone for very cheap redbuild it swap it in just check the forums craigslist and talk to people unless you need top of the line then save a little over a grand and get a kaaz cant go wrong with them!
how and where do i get an lsd?
- Thread starter Wilcox
- Start date
ok so i watched a series of videos on youtube called engineering explained and he explains all types of differentials ( i recomene watching them it helps alot! ) i want to know what kind of lsd do we have? is a 1 way, 2 way or 1.5 way? and i went to weir performance and i was wondering if the maxgrip #1 kit works well for street driving and some drifting?
I believe the standard 100 ft-lbs of breakaway force would be PLENTY to drift with. It'll hold to most MT/street slick launches.
When you are going in a straight line then ya, easy for the lsd to hold power. But when you start going around corners (sideways) then one wheel tends to want to spin faster than the other wheel. This is where the lsd does it's job at transferring the power from side to side. If you get the Weir kit then your wheels will both stay locked up for more of the turn and that is better for drifting. But if you want your car to drive more normal on the street and highway then the #1 kit would still be fine. When it is a welded or locked or close to locked lsd then it will suck at times during normal driving. Like slow turns in a parking lot it will spin your inside wheel and basically light em up with everybody staring at you! And on the highway it wouldn't be very good in turns either because then that one wheel would want to spin faster than the other but it wouldn't be able to.
Weirperformance is awesome because of the price. If you can do the work yourself it is great. Really cheap.
Weirperformance is awesome because of the price. If you can do the work yourself it is great. Really cheap.
ya i have no fear in doing the work my self, ive done head gaskets on two other cars not counting my 7mge. I'm doing the heater core in my supra right now and i enjoy doing my own work. i get scared letting other people close to my car with tools, unless there more knowledge able then me, but even then nobody i know is great with differentials so ill do it myself. is there a difference between sand blasting or shot peening the disks before installation? i heard it changes the break away load to about 120 lb feet.
if i rebuilt it with new shims, then both tires will get power and they will break loose easier giving me more over steer and also making it easier to control a drift. at least that is what should happen. more under steer makes no sense
cause ive never drifted a vehicle with an lsd that actually worked and i want to know what the car will handle like.
With a clutch kick yes it will oversteer up until it wears the clutch pack again and starts peglegging, in a grip situation it WILL Understeer again up until it wears out again....
so if dont clutch kick into the corner, i have no hope in bringing my back end out? cause i dont have enough torque to do it on just throttle
Yikes.
What people are telling you is: If your LSD is tight enough to affect handling, then what you will get is understeer. This is because if it's tight enough to do that, then it's not going to let the wheels rotate at different speeds as you try to corner in a grip situation. If both rear tires are rotating at the same speed, and you try to corner, something's got to slip. One candidate for slipping, particularly under acceleration is the inner front tire, which has the least grip of the four. The nose of the car will try to go straight instead, resulting in understeer.
Oversteer will only happen in the event that you ensure that one or both rear tires has less grip than the front inside, and this will only happen if the rear tires are already sliding, either skidding or spinning will do it. (Alternately you could put something on the rear tires to reduce their grip, I suppose.)
The Limited slip differential exists so that the differential CAN and WILL slip to some degree under normal driving circumstances and allow you to have decent handling. Once one tire starts spinning, the clutch determines how much torque the other tire gets. In slippery conditions, this can be enough to have the other wheel spin as well, but on dry pavement, particularly on heavy cornering, often it isn't (Since the outside rear tire is taking a lot of the car's weight, it gets the best overall traction budget.) So you often get one wheel spin even with a perfectly functioning LSD. If you want to kick the other tire out, you can do it by exceeding the remaining rear wheel's traction budget, with a high-G turn, properly executed so that your front wheels keep traction. (You can let them break loose once both rears are spinning if you want to do a full drift.)
As for torque, give me a break. I could get both rear wheels going while my car was still NA without resorting to a clutch kick. It's a matter of entering the corner at an appropriate speed so that you maximize engine torque while putting the right amount of lateral stress on the rear tires. (I also had the 3.909:1 differential in it at the time, so it wasn't the 4.300:1 gearing.) I know that the LSD worked, because it would spin both wheels briefly on launch, though around corners, it would only spin the inside wheel unless I got the whole rear end sliding.
What people are telling you is: If your LSD is tight enough to affect handling, then what you will get is understeer. This is because if it's tight enough to do that, then it's not going to let the wheels rotate at different speeds as you try to corner in a grip situation. If both rear tires are rotating at the same speed, and you try to corner, something's got to slip. One candidate for slipping, particularly under acceleration is the inner front tire, which has the least grip of the four. The nose of the car will try to go straight instead, resulting in understeer.
Oversteer will only happen in the event that you ensure that one or both rear tires has less grip than the front inside, and this will only happen if the rear tires are already sliding, either skidding or spinning will do it. (Alternately you could put something on the rear tires to reduce their grip, I suppose.)
The Limited slip differential exists so that the differential CAN and WILL slip to some degree under normal driving circumstances and allow you to have decent handling. Once one tire starts spinning, the clutch determines how much torque the other tire gets. In slippery conditions, this can be enough to have the other wheel spin as well, but on dry pavement, particularly on heavy cornering, often it isn't (Since the outside rear tire is taking a lot of the car's weight, it gets the best overall traction budget.) So you often get one wheel spin even with a perfectly functioning LSD. If you want to kick the other tire out, you can do it by exceeding the remaining rear wheel's traction budget, with a high-G turn, properly executed so that your front wheels keep traction. (You can let them break loose once both rears are spinning if you want to do a full drift.)
As for torque, give me a break. I could get both rear wheels going while my car was still NA without resorting to a clutch kick. It's a matter of entering the corner at an appropriate speed so that you maximize engine torque while putting the right amount of lateral stress on the rear tires. (I also had the 3.909:1 differential in it at the time, so it wasn't the 4.300:1 gearing.) I know that the LSD worked, because it would spin both wheels briefly on launch, though around corners, it would only spin the inside wheel unless I got the whole rear end sliding.
Wilcox;1909596 said:
Why do you think most drifters run their tires at close to 60 psi in the rear?
thank you for actually explaining that hole ordeal. so when i rebuild my LSD and it is functioning, if i get one of the rear tires broke loose in a drift or a g-turn then the other tire will break loose and they should get equal power allowing for a more controllable drift?
Many people drifting their car have welded diffs or fully locked diffs. I want this because I drift my car. But I also like spirited driving on highways and stuff. So I don't think I would be happy with my car if I just went and locked the diff. I personally need to find a reasonable compromise. Something that will do what I want and last. What are we looking at for rebuilding the stock lsd clutches? Is it easy? Is it cheap? I like the idea of the Weir kit because I want a 1.5 way lsd and I believe our stock diff is 1.5 way. But I keep hearing now that the Weir Performance kits only work when the clutches are not worn out. I know some of the aftermarket limited slips have multiple clutch discs. We must only have like 2?
Welding the differential is an option if you want a dedicated drift car, but I'd never drive that way on the street.
I'm not sure if our differentials are 1.5way or 2 way, but they definitely limit when torque is applied in both directions. I can't see from the parts list how the clutches can react differently to torque applied in reverse, since the clutch assemblies don't appear to have directional indicators, but since I haven't actually seen the parts, I could be wrong.
I'm not sure if our differentials are 1.5way or 2 way, but they definitely limit when torque is applied in both directions. I can't see from the parts list how the clutches can react differently to torque applied in reverse, since the clutch assemblies don't appear to have directional indicators, but since I haven't actually seen the parts, I could be wrong.