Jackass418;1208706 said:
Suprahero ...he just said he had one ...4 sale ...at a reasonable price.
Mark I will call today.
hiccups, rollercoaster idle, check light blinkage, etc.
- Thread starter Jacob
- Start date
Suprahero ...he just said he had one ...4 sale ...at a reasonable price.
Mark I will call today.
ok well keeping with the issue of this problem today I unplugged both sensors marked (sensor assy, turbo pressure) while engine was running and it didn't change rpm rate or anything so would this mean that they are both shot? or would they not change anything if unplugged while running.
^^^means it's okay. If it changed that would mean the MAP is reading different than what is actually there. If it was reading different, you should check the wiring before buying another MAP sensor.
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okay, I finally did some cross reference thru google. THe 6097 NGKs are the V spark or whatever and the 1095s are the standard series. You'll do much better at AutoZone knowing this. EVen better would be the other code on the boxes bkr...something.
I put the standard series in no more rich smokiness coming out of the exhaust. But my car still does the hiccup/bucking/bogging thing. It does it at par-throttle and WOT. It does it randomly. Seems a lil worse once warm. It's a MAP ecu so I can't imagine a boost leak outside the intake manifold could be doing this. Could it be a loose connection? I almost thought sticking injectors but all of them at the same time seems very unlikely.
It does run. I even put the borrowed car into storage and taught someone how to drive stick on this car (2JZGTE spinning one 6'' tire
)
BTW, thanks Suprahero for the info. And always thanks Mark.
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okay, I finally did some cross reference thru google. THe 6097 NGKs are the V spark or whatever and the 1095s are the standard series. You'll do much better at AutoZone knowing this. EVen better would be the other code on the boxes bkr...something.
I put the standard series in no more rich smokiness coming out of the exhaust. But my car still does the hiccup/bucking/bogging thing. It does it at par-throttle and WOT. It does it randomly. Seems a lil worse once warm. It's a MAP ecu so I can't imagine a boost leak outside the intake manifold could be doing this. Could it be a loose connection? I almost thought sticking injectors but all of them at the same time seems very unlikely.
It does run. I even put the borrowed car into storage and taught someone how to drive stick on this car (2JZGTE spinning one 6'' tire
)BTW, thanks Suprahero for the info. And always thanks Mark.
I went over to a mechanic. He's always been very competent and methodical. Mark is kinda the same way except this guy can see/smell/hear my motor. So yeah, he listened to it. Why's there so much smoke. Thinkin. Lookin. He said to get a vaccum test done cuz it might be a bent or burnt exhaust valve. I show him some spark plugs that I had changed out. Other than too much fuel. I saw oil on at least 2 of them. I never thought to check them. And the ones before were so caked with whatever that u couldn't tell black from black black.
This would really really suck... a lot ...to tear everything down would just suck. Epic sucking would happen. I am going to see about renting a vaccum check tool from Autozone or borrowing one.
This would really really suck... a lot ...to tear everything down would just suck. Epic sucking would happen. I am going to see about renting a vaccum check tool from Autozone or borrowing one.
I took my friend for a ride (via phone). He doesn't think it's mechanical at all. Just thinks it's electrical most likely wiring. I guess so. I'm just lost. I really don't like being such a noob. Before I freak out again. I am just going to quadruple check wiring and injectors... this gets so old.
just use a boost gauge it also does vacume readings if its jumping around its a valve problem . the best way to check for a vacume leak is to go to a mechanic that has a smoke machine and look for smoke .it puts compressed nitrogen or air and smoke chemical into the engine and look for smoke escaping . a compression and leakdown test would most likely tell if you have a valve issue. also to help narrow down if its on a certain cyl. you can get it running and start unplugging the trigger plugs to the coils one at a time and see which cyl. is down (the one that makes no change in the way it runs) if this dont narrow it down it could be bad grounds or power to the ecu . check from moter to battery to ecu , no more than .8ohms differance is good for ground . check voltage at the ecu constant and ignition.it needs to be in the 12 to 14v range .
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wait a tick, yeah, wouldn't the compression test have shown a bad valve (not seating proper/bent/whatever). Thanks for the encouraging reality.
dont know if you seen where i edited the post above so here is the added info . to help narrow down if its on a certain cyl. you can get it running and start unplugging the trigger plugs to the coils one at a time and see which cyl. is down (the one that makes no change in the way it runs) if this dont narrow it down it could be bad grounds or power to the ecu . check from moter to battery to ecu , no more than .8 ohms differance is good for ground . check voltage at the ecu constant and ignition.it needs to be in the 12 to 14v range .
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