Heres the video..
- Thread starter PorterzSupra
- Start date
Use this one, it's close enough for this I think... 
the top number is in inches, the bottom number is millimeters
the top number is in inches, the bottom number is millimeters
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Were talking about 1/1000s of an inch difference from .026-.027? It should be ok?? but he could also use both the .015 and .012 inch together to be dead on balls accurate...
i havent' read the other two pages, but from your second video that you made, my best guess would be that maybe it's your MAF?
I really think its something to do with his MAF sensor ( well my nieve guess was AFM before he told me he has a MAF set up).
I would rule out valves and all that BIG stuff. Usually all these turn out to be are electrical problems that are relatively easy to fix.
-Jonathan
I would rule out valves and all that BIG stuff. Usually all these turn out to be are electrical problems that are relatively easy to fix.
-Jonathan
"Were talking about 1/1000s of an inch difference from .026-.027?"
I thought it said .070 not .027? oh wait... inches, mm wow they are always trying to confuse everyone.. okay let me try it and see...
BTW check out my new video clip in the vid section =)
I thought it said .070 not .027? oh wait... inches, mm wow they are always trying to confuse everyone.. okay let me try it and see...
BTW check out my new video clip in the vid section =)
I just check it in ohms starting at all the way cc goint slowly cw the digital meter starts at 5 then goes to 6 if I turn it. It does not start at 0
defective TPS? Its new
both the MAFT and the LEX do it... maybe they are too close to the turbo? Its like 5 inches from the turbo but the MAFT guys said it would still be ok
defective TPS? Its new
both the MAFT and the LEX do it... maybe they are too close to the turbo? Its like 5 inches from the turbo but the MAFT guys said it would still be ok
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Please try this and go from there.
No meter required..
If it does not give a code, I would try adjusting it the TPS until it does?? But I don't know what else to say but sorry Porter..
Jetjock said:
No meter required..
If it does not give a code, I would try adjusting it the TPS until it does?? But I don't know what else to say but sorry Porter..
Good advice
Porter, I'd given up on you because you asked me to explain how everything worked and after I did you went and asked the same questions a few posts later. You basically wasted my time and unlike you I don't have a lot of it left.
Look, it's simple. Forget the feelers, what you want is the IDL contact closed when the throttle is fully closed. You want it to open with the slightlest amount of throttle plate opening and still close again when the throttle is closes. Use the advice Joel gave you. It ain't rocket science. If that solves your problem then you can do it right later. It isn't all that critical. Just be sure the throttle isn't sticking and the dashpot is working right first.
And learn how to use a meter in the future. It's clear you're as confused as your so called "mechanic" is.
Porter, I'd given up on you because you asked me to explain how everything worked and after I did you went and asked the same questions a few posts later. You basically wasted my time and unlike you I don't have a lot of it left.
Look, it's simple. Forget the feelers, what you want is the IDL contact closed when the throttle is fully closed. You want it to open with the slightlest amount of throttle plate opening and still close again when the throttle is closes. Use the advice Joel gave you. It ain't rocket science. If that solves your problem then you can do it right later. It isn't all that critical. Just be sure the throttle isn't sticking and the dashpot is working right first.
And learn how to use a meter in the future. It's clear you're as confused as your so called "mechanic" is.
The problem is you guys give half of the info. For example you tell me
"A quick and dirty way to check IDL is to jump the diag block KOEO (key on engine off) and lightly press the gas pedal"
So I take off the top but what connectors do I jump? I did E1 and T like you would to check the engine codes and there was no click or check engine light when I hit the gas
"A quick and dirty way to check IDL is to jump the diag block KOEO (key on engine off) and lightly press the gas pedal"
So I take off the top but what connectors do I jump? I did E1 and T like you would to check the engine codes and there was no click or check engine light when I hit the gas
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Well, we have to assume you know *something*. If not you shouldn't be even near the car with tools. Besides, what to jumper is in the manual.
Yes, jumper E1 and T. No one said you'd get a click but you should get a code 51 with the pedal slightly pressed. If not that's a problem. Do you get a normal code with the pedal released? Do you get any other codes? Do you get a code 51 with the AC on (engine off)? Why am I even writing this?
Yes, jumper E1 and T. No one said you'd get a click but you should get a code 51 with the pedal slightly pressed. If not that's a problem. Do you get a normal code with the pedal released? Do you get any other codes? Do you get a code 51 with the AC on (engine off)? Why am I even writing this?
I just reset the computer then did it again I get 51 yes. I think the problem is something electronic maybe even the comptuer. It runs fine then without even touching the gas it will suddenly act up again then go normal again a minute later but its most consistant when u hit the gas and let off. BTW The AC is not connected. I am getting desperate so there is now a $10 REWARD via paypal for whoever solves the problem! =)
I didn't think it was your TPS. As I said in another post, you could disconnect it and drive around all day without noticing a difference. The ecu is smarter than you think. It's not going to strand you unless one of only a very few things happen. You could disconnect the coolant sensor, TPS, O2 sensor, lots of things and you'd never feel it during normal driving. A bad AFM or CPS is a different story however.
Your problem is probably very simple. You just need to read the manual and check things one at a time. It's simply a process of elimination. This car is not that hard to work on, it really isn't, but you need to approach it methodically.
Your problem is probably very simple. You just need to read the manual and check things one at a time. It's simply a process of elimination. This car is not that hard to work on, it really isn't, but you need to approach it methodically.
One thing thats different on my new motor (when the problem started) is the MAF and IDL hose are close to the turbo (no accord pipe) , prolly 4.5 - 5 inches from turbo, could this be setting things off? Oh your right about TPS I can dis connect it and the cars runs the same, not to get off topic but that said why would they even put one on!!!??
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Just because you can't feel any difference doesn't mean it's useless. It's just that with it disconnected the ecu compensates. The throttle angle in the TPS is needed for precision injection control and switching injection modes. The IDL contact runs everything from the ISC system, to cutting injection, to slightly modifying ignition timing when the AC is on. Same with all the other stuff. The ecu is smart but the sensors are for trimming.
It's a fairly sophisitcated system for it's day and why you'll probably never get anywhere with it until you study, especially if you're going to mode stuff. Me thinks you're just in over your head.
It's a fairly sophisitcated system for it's day and why you'll probably never get anywhere with it until you study, especially if you're going to mode stuff. Me thinks you're just in over your head.