Help Me Plan a GOOD GTE Rebuild on a Budget!

Kai

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
May 18, 2006
3,138
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Portslade, England
rationalrecipes.blogspot.com
I've recommended those pistons to a few people on the UK Mk3 Forum and so far no problems have been mentioned. As long as the block is bored and honed properly and the pistons matched to the cylinders, new bearings are used and the crank is polished - i dont see any reason why it should fail at all. Granted its a mostly stock build, but with ARP's clamping the head down, 12 to 15psi should be an easily attainable goal and be reliable at the same time.
 
p5150

p5150

ASE and FAA A&P Certified
Mar 31, 2005
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Central Idaho
Just my opinion but I think that a 2jz NA-T swap is a much more cost-effective route. More people are starting to agree with me.

If you look at the first page of my build thread I have posted some links as to why I think so. I dont want to wreck your thread with 7m vs 2j stuff but if you want to see why I think its a better idea you can look at what I have done and see what I have posted up. A few other guys have done it too.
 
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Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
967
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Louisville, KY
Dave - I was hoping somebody local would have a lead on a machine shop for me. Thanks!

Doom - I will read your build thread through for sure & thanks.

p5150 - You can't drag me into the 7m/2J thing, because as long as it's fast I don't care. :) I'm open to thinking outside the box, so I'll give your thread a good read, but after seeing Jay's (Suprahero) 1J swap thread I have a feeling that it's a bit more involved than I'm willing to go with for now.

IJ - Okay, so maybe "budget" should have been replaced with dependable 7M no-frills rebuild at the lowest possible cost for my power goals. :) People tend to either spend a butt ton of money on monster builds, or they have bigger eyes than wallets, and I really need to be realistic about what I'm spending if I want to continue to have a happy marriage. ;)
 
dok33

dok33

My fuel pump precedes me
Apr 16, 2005
934
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Austin, TX
www.cardomain.com
I watched I think I love my wife last night, couldn't resist replying to 1J...

My wife is actually very supportive of my hobby, she's the one who bought the Supra for me :) As long as I don't spend money we need for other stuff on parts she's happy.

Back on topic, I picked up a $50 Eristic gasket set for my build, couldn't see spending $300 for one although I'm not planning to use the headgasket. I may put better cam and main seals on it too, those are a PITA to replace if they suck...
 
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NewWestSupras

SoupLvr
Mar 1, 2006
611
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White Rock
After going through the rebuild on my money pit, If you are going to stay with stock components, I'd use Arp rod bolts. Get the rods machined to suit, and balance the bottom end. Its probably an extra few hundred after its all said and done, but entirely worth it imho (in retrospect).
 
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Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
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NewWestSupras said:
After going through the rebuild on my money pit, If you are going to stay with stock components, I'd use Arp rod bolts. Get the rods machined to suit, and balance the bottom end. Its probably an extra few hundred after its all said and done, but entirely worth it imho (in retrospect).
Click to expand...

What went wrong with the stock rod bolts? I've been wondering about reusing stock bolts...
 
mattsplat72

mattsplat72

is sofa king
Jan 17, 2006
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Sedro Woolley, Washington, United States
Shytheed Dumas said:
Kai - No need for a cat here, I just have it on there for noise control right now. I will be going Tanabe when I get the chance.

Matt - This will be a winter long project, more because of funds than anything, so I'll be starting with the machine work on the block for now and buy the internals before I get to the head. I will check back with you when I get that far, in case you still have it.

FTF - You're dead right about the gaskets, and I haven't forgotten hoses, either. I was planning on buying a gasket set and get it out of the way all at once.

Thanks
Click to expand...


No Prob mine is a winter build up as well. either swapping in a donor engine or going 1j haven't made up my mind yet .Either way I will have a extra head and I will donate it to you for the cheapy cheap. If I go 1j I will have a P&Ped head with 264's I will sell for not so cheapy cheap. Don't fret time is not an issue so I can hold on till you have cash
 
da89soup

da89soup

World I Am Gay Blue!!!
Dec 2, 2005
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Fargo ND
Im no expert here Kurt but I would start with a build thread!!!!!:biglaugh:

From what I know in my days of working in the machine shop in college everyone here is dead on. You dont need forged internals to push 400, and apr's throughout and a good steal HG is the ticket. In the shop I worked in, every block that came in was hot tanked and all soft plugs and galleys came out before the hot tank. Also if we did a valve job the valves and the aluminum head were glass beaded so the moter should be clean and ready for paint. Good luck my friend and keep us posted!!!!
 
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Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
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Louisville, KY
Consider this my pre-build thread, since I don't know what a "head" or a "pissed on" is and need to learn a few things first, Ryan. :D

I need to go back through here, get a full list put together and start with the cost estimates.

I think there are some good places to shave some money without sacrificing reliability, mainly in the aisin oil pump, bearings, stock pistons, etc. I really hope I can keep my machine shop prices down... I am stuck on the Cometic, though.
 
bowsercake

bowsercake

New Member
Aug 24, 2005
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you could always get new OEM rod bolts and use those. They are cheaper than ARP is you are on a budget and they are fairly cheap to have installed by a machine shop. New toyota bolts should be fine for most people (as in, not high horsepower).
 
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IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Dumas: That kit can work out fine as long as you accept it as a realistic limitation on the amount of boost you run.

There are very few "bad parts" made these days they just vary in the amount of abuse they'll take before failing.

An example would be Ross pistons these things are sledge hammer tough whereas JE's are lighter and while a great piston won't take the same abuse as a Ross without failing.

Does this make a JE inferior? No not at all as long as you understand this limitation.

Before you lay down the $$$ for anything run it by the guys here and you'll be fine.
 
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