HELP! Car running like crap after BHG fix

1988SupraDreams

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Mar 10, 2006
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Well, I would still test your BPV, as I've seen many bad ones. Ironically I still have mine, and it functions properly. Take the BPV off and try to blow through it, if you can it's toasted.
 

Z'mnypit

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May 2, 2007
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1988SupraDreams said:
Well, I would still test your BPV, as I've seen many bad ones. Ironically I still have mine, and it functions properly. Take the BPV off and try to blow through it, if you can it's toasted.
The valve on top of the Tstat housing? Its storming now so Ill have to check it tommorow.

Also I rewired the knock sensor and its still throwing the 52 code. Guess tommorrow Ill swap out the knock sensors with some spare ones I have. Also getting a code 34 (turbo charger pressure abnormal.) guess thats from me shimming the waste gate. Easy fix. Ive also check all the clamps on the all the piping and they are all tight none loose.
 

1988SupraDreams

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A bad BPV is the worst Boost leak you can have next to a blown off IC pipe. Check that thing. It comes off of the intake and goes into the 3000 Pipe, that's ur Bypass Valve. Shouldnt throw that code unless you have a major boost leak or are pusing an insane amount of boost with a boost controller. My bet is on the BPV being the cause of your code 34.
 

Z'mnypit

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1988SupraDreams said:
A bad BPV is the worst Boost leak you can have next to a blown off IC pipe. Check that thing. It comes off of the intake and goes into the 3000 Pipe, that's ur Bypass Valve. Shouldnt throw that code unless you have a major boost leak or are pusing an insane amount of boost with a boost controller. My bet is on the BPV being the cause of your code 34.
Well, the 34 code just came about after I put washers behing the wastegate about an hour ago. ON the BPV you wouldnt happen to have a pic of the location would you? Ive taken the 3000pipe off numerous times and cant recall anything hose connecting to it.
 

Idealsupra

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Z'mnypit said:
*NM* Its the BOV or basically right?

yes

but the code 34 is simply "fuel cut" nothing you "do" will clear that code....you need to just set your boost lower then fuel cut...thats all. so yes deshimming it a bit should fix it.

fix the KS the right way and clear the code 52 and i promise your problems will be solved ;)
 

Burntz

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Apr 20, 2007
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Idealsupra said:
yes

but the code 34 is simply "fuel cut" nothing you "do" will clear that code....you need to just set your boost lower then fuel cut...thats all. so yes deshimming it a bit should fix it.

fix the KS the right way and clear the code 52 and i promise your problems will be solved ;)

agreed :)

+1

corret me if I'm wrong, but if you knock sensor is bad, and telling your ECU that you are getting a shit ton of knock ,then the ecu would retard the timing considerably to avoid that right? and it would make your car run like ass.
 

Idealsupra

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Burntz said:
agreed :)

+1

corret me if I'm wrong, but if you knock sensor is bad, and telling your ECU that you are getting a shit ton of knock ,then the ecu would retard the timing considerably to avoid that right? and it would make your car run like ass.

5203-bakery-crisp-chocolate-chip-cookie.jpg


:D
 

1988SupraDreams

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Idealsupra said:
yes

but the code 34 is simply "fuel cut" nothing you "do" will clear that code....you need to just set your boost lower then fuel cut...thats all. so yes deshimming it a bit should fix it.


Also comes on if you have a major boost leak, ask me how I know. The turbo just keeps going and going and it doesnt realize theres a leak, it keeps trying to reach the pressure that the wastegate is set at, but it never makes it because of the leak, so it just keeps pushing harder until you hit fuel cut.
 

jetjock

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Burntz said:
corret me if I'm wrong, but if you knock sensor is bad, and telling your ECU that you are getting a shit ton of knock ,then the ecu would retard the timing considerably to avoid that right? and it would make your car run like ass.

Not exactly. It doesn't work the way you said but since the end result is timing will be retarded it's close enough.
 

Z'mnypit

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May 2, 2007
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Thanks for all the prompt replies guys. Im going to swap the KS hoping I can rid of the 52 code. De-shim the wastegate then check the BPV. Hopefully by tommorow Ill have a good idea of whats going on hopefully.
 

Z'mnypit

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Ok, not too much of an update today. I checked the BPV and its good. I couldnt blow through it at all. Got the knock sensors out of my other block but didnt get around to installing them. Ive checked ever intercooler pipe and all seem to be in good shape. All the clamps are tight. This car is really pissing me off....
 
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Z'mnypit

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Pulled all the washers from the wastgate still nothing. Im about to throw in the towel on this car. Any other suggestions? Im going to double check the timing when I get home.
 

Z'mnypit

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Another update. Pulled the #1 plug and turned the crank to 0. Stuck a screwdriver in there and the piston was at the bottom. Spun the crank around till the piston was at the top and lined the crank up with 0. pulled the the timing cover and the cam sprocket marks were pointed down. I removed the belt, lined them up with the marks and reinstalled. Set the idle with the CPS to 800 or so and took it for a spin. Still does the same thing. Runs good with no boost then once the boost kicks in its a dog, it goes slow. Nose dive slow, then it starts jerking. I dont understand this stupid car.
 

Z'mnypit

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So the knock sensors will cause this much havoc? Ive had them go bad on LS1 cars and never cause this much trouble. Maybe these cars ar different. Ill have to figure out how to get the back sensor out by the starter.

When the head was off I had the #1 piston TDC and the crank at 0. Got everything put together and its out 180* out. I dont understand that.
 

Z'mnypit

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starscream5000 said:
LS1 vs 7M-GTE... Very different bud ;)
Well I knew that but the knock sensors serve the same purpose

Any ideal on how to remove the sensor behind the starter with out having to take everything in the world off or apart?