Heater Core kicked the bucket?

mkiii222

Member
Mar 31, 2005
697
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16
Troy, MI
I could not for the life of me tell you where I found these:
87156-14040
87156-14030

They pull up as 'PIPE, HEATER' on Champion's web site and together run less than $50. Gonna try to place the order next paycheck and keep my fingers crossed that they aren't discontinued.

I remember there was a listing for multiple models on the site I found these. Apparently Toyota used one core for a bunch of cars and just changed the tubes.
 

Suprasonic19

2JZ no sh*t!
Mar 5, 2007
135
0
0
Stockton, CA
Okay just got off the phone with the local toyota dealer here and he said the 14030 is discontinued, and its the pipe with a smaller bend(passenger side). But the 14040 is still available from somewhere in toronto i guess. its the one with the bigger bend(drivers side). Lucky for me thats the one i need, also lucky for us, it only runs 22.40 list. I work at infiniti so i can get it for 15.86. Haha sucka. So tomaro morning ill go in and order it. Thanks a million for those pn's!

These pipes make alot of sense now that you say they just changed pipes per vehicle.
 

shaeff

Kurt is FTMFW x2!!!!
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Super Moderator
Mar 30, 2005
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Suprasonic19;1744994 said:
shaeff-im sure i could have done it without pulling the lines looking at everything now but it was my first one so i wanted to pull the whole box out and inspect everything. Next one will be much easier.

mk222-the parts guy said there is no record of them ever being available. he showed me his screen with the exploded view and it clearly showed both pipes and clips seperated from the heater core, but there were no numbers for them. he even went in back and looked at the original scansheets they used back in the day and those didnt have numbers on them either. So i guess youre sol on getting them new from anywhere. Gotta find used. I have a lead on a set here but im gonna hit up the picknpull this weekend and see if i can find a good set.

Every time I've done a Supra heater core, I've removed the whole box the core is bolted to, always without draining the AC. You just have to be nimble. Besides, putting a new heater core in with the box/ducting removed is much easier, and allows you to clean all the leaves and debris out of there.


mkiii222;1745161 said:
I could not for the life of me tell you where I found these:
87156-14040
87156-14030

They pull up as 'PIPE, HEATER' on Champion's web site and together run less than $50. Gonna try to place the order next paycheck and keep my fingers crossed that they aren't discontinued.

I remember there was a listing for multiple models on the site I found these. Apparently Toyota used one core for a bunch of cars and just changed the tubes.
I just ordered both pipes about a year ago and they were available back then. Had them in one day, with new o-rings and clamps. The owner of the car wanted to re-use his, I told him to finish the job himself then because I refused to half-ass it by trying to straighten completely crushed heater core pipes.

He bought new pipes. ;)
 

Suprasonic19

2JZ no sh*t!
Mar 5, 2007
135
0
0
Stockton, CA
shaeff;1746457 said:
I just ordered both pipes about a year ago and they were available back then. Had them in one day, with new o-rings and clamps. The owner of the car wanted to re-use his, I told him to finish the job himself then because I refused to half-ass it by trying to straighten completely crushed heater core pipes.

He bought new pipes. ;)

Sometimes customers make the strangest decisions, at least once a day Im staring at my service writer dumbfounded just like "Really? Youre serious? Like the customer doesnt want there car fixed right the first time? Okay, fine. Not my car." And then sure enough, within two or three weeks they always come back complaining about why the problem is back/similar. I really dont get it.

Toyota called me today and said the o rings came in today and the pipe will be in tomaro, once I get it home Ill put up a picture. Who knows, this could be the last one available... Just the other day I installed the last temp gauge assembly in the americas for the s13 240sx. Was rather nerve racking.
 

mkiii222

Member
Mar 31, 2005
697
0
16
Troy, MI
Ugh.

Everything except pipe 87156-14030 is still available. I suspect I just got one of the last remaining 87156-14040 though so if you need one order it soon.

The clamps and o-rings are 'standard' so no worries there.
 

Suprasonic19

2JZ no sh*t!
Mar 5, 2007
135
0
0
Stockton, CA
I already got my 14040 pipe but yea the 14030 was discontinued when i called back in august. I knew someone on here that was selling the whole heater core and both pipes together for 60 bucks plus shipping if you still need the other pipe. I can email them see if its still available. Let me know
 

mkiii222

Member
Mar 31, 2005
697
0
16
Troy, MI
Depending on which side it is both of mine aren't toast. I've got new hoses and a used but verified control valve coming. Normally being in FL I'd just leave it looped and call it a day but I'm moving to MI soon and would like heat when the mercury can't make it out of the bubble at the bottom of the thermometer.
 

mkiii222

Member
Mar 31, 2005
697
0
16
Troy, MI
My sis lives in Kansas City and last winter my girl and my sis were both sending me nearly identical pics... snow up to the mailbox, negative teens...

I got my license with 3 feet of snow on the ground in KC back in the day. I'll take snow over this FL heat any day of the week. If it's cold I know how to light a fire, if it's hot I have no clue how to instantly make ice.
 

Dan_Gyoba

Turbo Swapper
Aug 9, 2007
1,836
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Alberta
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I've made a personal vow to never complain about it being too hot. Ever.

'round here, negative teens are the winter days you kick the kids out to play in the snow, you keep them in when it breaks the -35 mark, which happens more often than bears thinking about.
 

Suprasonic19

2JZ no sh*t!
Mar 5, 2007
135
0
0
Stockton, CA
Dan_Gyoba;1759157 said:
'round here, negative teens are the winter days you kick the kids out to play in the snow, you keep them in when it breaks the -35 mark, which happens more often than bears thinking about.

Ill think about this tomaro morning when i complain about it dropping below 60 degrees. haha
 

Zazzn

l33t M0derat0r (On some other forum) n00blet here
Apr 1, 2005
972
7
18
Toronto/SF Bay area
hey guys, I'm about to start this project, is there a guide somewhere that explains the easiest way to pull the dash? The last thing I want is squeaking form the dash.
 

Suprasonic19

2JZ no sh*t!
Mar 5, 2007
135
0
0
Stockton, CA
Really its pretty simple. I thought it was gonna be harder than it was but it only took my an hour to have the dash out and another 30 min to get the heater box out. And that was by myself with out looking at the tsrm. If you just follow the tsrm tho itll give you the steps to get the dash out(its called safety pad in the tsrm) start here http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BO&P=50 Should be noted tho that the tsrm does not say how to get the heater box its self out. I removed the charcoal canister, undid the ac lines and removed the heater hoses that go into the firewall from the engine bay side. One behind the intake mani and the other behind the exhaust side valve cover. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THESE COPPER PIPES, ONE IS DISCONTINUED AND THE OTHER IS WELL ON ITS WAY TO BEING THERE TOO. Looking back on it I could have done it without undoing the ac but I wanted to pull the whole box and refoam it.(Post 37 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?101797-88-7MGTE-White-Pearl-Targa-Lots-of-Pics/page4 ) Remove the dash support bar before trying to pull the climate box. There are a couple 10mm/Screw bolts that hold the ac evaporator side and the same for the heater box side. If i can remember right the evap bolts were black and the heater box bolts were goldish. You have to undo the evap side first and slide it out and to the right as much as possible, then you can undo the heater box and slide it out. once you have it a few inches out you should be able to reach the heater core. Its in the center up under the windshield. Dont forget to replace the o rings for the heater pipes, a few bucks at toyota for piece of mind.

Some pointers that i found made it easier:
Remove drivers seat and drop the column instead of pulling the steering wheel. Seat is four bolts and the harness connector under the back and one bolt at the seat belt track on the trans tunnel. Move the seat all the way forward before unplugging it. column is 2 17mms. There is a spring on the left side of the column for the tilt release..remember how and where it goes. Unbolt the ebrake handle at the trans tunnel and lay it over after you get the center console out, its one 19mm nut and one 19mm bolt(might be 17mms actually). Put the trans in Low or 4th which ever you have and cover it with a hand towel or rag to protect from scratching. Same with steering wheel.

Pretty much all the screws you pull out will be the same so remembering exactly what ones went where isnt too important, only special ones are the ones holding the climate control and the stereo i think. but any 10mm or 12mm bolts you pull try and remember or put in ziplock bags with writing as to where they go.

Dont pull the dash assy straight out. Pull up then out to unclip it.

This thread has alot of pointers and imput. http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?92688-Dash-Removal-Writeup&highlight=heater+core

Use the search function and just browse through threads, I did searches for things like "heater core" and "dash removal"

And if you have any more problems or questions just pm me, im on here daily. Good luck!
 

pablo94sc

New Member
Dec 16, 2009
36
0
0
TN
Thanks for the great write-up and making it sound like a fairly easy task. My vents started blowing a little steam this spring so I bypassed the heater core, only to still get a coolant residue forming on the windshield interior every 3-4 days from the defroster vents (when it was on dash only... gotta see if that's a flaw I can fix). Well now that it's cooled off, and the fact my blower motor decided to die yesterday morning, I am finally going to tackle this project and clean out the vents at the same time. :)

Since the pipes look like they are brass, have any of you thought about having a plumber bend some new ones up and sweat them to the core since they are no longer available from Toyota? Seems like it might work from what I see in the pictures.
 

hatchet9mm

New Member
Aug 1, 2008
208
0
0
USA
How did you get your dash harness un hooked from behind the kick panel? I'm won't budge its like they are welded in there.
 

hatchet9mm

New Member
Aug 1, 2008
208
0
0
USA
It isn't up in the dash, down right next to the driver's side kick panel and dead pedal there is a whole bunch of plugs and relays. and if I can get those unplugged the dash won't be attached anymore to the car, did you not unhook them. I could undo some of the metal stuff on the dash and just leave the harness hooked to the car, but I thought it would be easier to just have all of the wires come out with the dash.
 

planemos

New Member
Apr 22, 2011
559
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0
Slocan Park, BC, Canada
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=2

The electrical wiring diagrams might help. You should be able to unplug any and all plugs that you see. You just have to be careful because there a couple of types on a Supra. Some you have to use a small tool or a flathead to unhook the pin on the plug so that it will pull out. I personally removed my dash and the kick panel fuses on the driver's side are all still there. Just take a real good look with a flashlight and you will find what you need to unhook. Try and keep track of how you need to put it back together. Take pics of whatev.