Head bolts and torque settings. HELP!!!

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Hi everyone, its been like over a yr since my last post or even been on supramania, shocking i know, i guess i ran out of money so i couldn't do things to my supra, so i lost interest:3d_frown:

Anyway my supra has been going fine till just a few weeks ago were i think its leeking water past the head gasket into the head, AGAIN!!!
So i took it to my local Mechanic and said what you think, and he agrees with me, so i asked him what about if i get new headbolts and replace them one by one and re torque the head again, this might work since its just in the early stages of the problem. He said this could work, and i want to do it this way so its alot cheaper, i don't have alot of cash anymore =/

So im asking where can i buy a set of these ARP Head bolts from (in Australia) and what is a good torque setting? I heard around 75-80 foot pound is a good setting?

The head gasket has been replaced before about 5yrs ago or so, and it was a metal head gasket, a good one so it should be still ok, but the head bolts were still the original ones used and was torqued to around 64.

The engine is a 7M-GTE

Any info or links or whatever would be great so i can get this car fixed asap.

Thanks

 

[jdub]

Don't know where you can get ARP hardware down under, but I do know the torque settings (both using moly for lube):

- ARP Bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head.
- ARP Studs are 80 ft/lbs.

I would use studs if given the choice.

 

[IJ.]

Don't know where you can get ARP hardware down under, but I do know the torque settings (both using moly for lube):

- ARP Bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head.
- ARP Studs are 80 ft/lbs.

I would use studs if given the choice. But NOT without removing the head and chasing all the bolt holes!

fixed

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

Don't know where you can get ARP hardware down under, but I do know the torque settings (both using moly for lube):

- ARP Bolts are limited to 75 ft/lbs on an aluminum head.
- ARP Studs are 80 ft/lbs.

I would use studs if given the choice.

Ahh ok thanks for the info, and getting me back on supramania

Hmm yea i can see why you would use the studs, get an extra 5, every bit helps. Only thing is with studs, does the head have to come off? or can it still be left on like Bolts can be?

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

fixed

Ahh crap i didn't see what you wrote there in bold my bad lol.

Bugger, i don't want to remove the head, so i think ill go with the bolts then, its running stock boost etc, just a big hi flow exhaust system and a ram pod.

 

[jdub]

LOL @ Ian. He's right...you definitely want to chase the block threads to install studs.

Personally...I wouldn't do the one at a time remove/replace. If you have a BHG (even an early one) it will likely not fix your problem. The stock head bolts are pretty stout...you can take them to 70-75 ft/lbs of torque.

 

[Poodles]

On a stock headgasket, if you blow it, you deform the sealing rings. Torque it down all you want, it's not going to fix it...

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

LOL @ Ian. He's right...you definitely want to chase the block threads to install studs.

Personally...I wouldn't do the one at a time remove/replace. If you have a BHG (even an early one) it will likely not fix your problem. The stock head bolts are pretty stout...you can take them to 70-75 ft/lbs of torque.

Yea i know, just that it will cost alot more, and at this stage my budget is not alot.
Its not a BHG yet, ive had a leeking head gasket before on a 5-ME motor, it never blew just leeked, but i got it completely replaced back then. And when my first HG blew on my supra, you know when it blows, let me tell ya lol.
Yea you are right, it might not fix it, but im hopeing it will, or for at least awile, i don't plan on having the car for to much longer really.

Interesting how the originals can get to 70-75, the mechanic i got to do it, said he can get past 64, it was the limit he said =/
Anyway ill see what i can do with the info you guys gave me, and ill see the mechanic disarvo and see what we can work out, including price lol.

Thanks

 

[IJ.]

He lied

 

[Simon's 88 GT Limited]

On a stock headgasket, if you blow it, you deform the sealing rings. Torque it down all you want, it's not going to fix it...

Ya i know, but its not a stock HG, its a after market metal one, ordered from sydney yrs ago.

Its more of a test it, and see what happens, if it works YAY, if not, then yea ill have to get the whole lot done again =/ Which means asking my perents for money :3d_frown:

 

[CyFi6]

Why do you need to chase the threads with studs and not bolts? I would think it would be the opposite seeing how with the studs your turning torque isn't affected by the block threads.

 

[jdub]

Studs screw further into the block...if you don't chase them (and get the crap out out of the threads), you risk cracking between the holes and the water passages.

 

[CyFi6]

Ah, i see, but aren't the studs supposed to only go in finger tight though? Wouldn't you really have to crank them down to cause them to crack the block? Is it 100% necessary they be bottomed out in the hole?

 

[IJ.]

Personally I chase every hole in the block then chamfer them and deburr any sharp edges as part of my normal prep work.

 

[CyFi6]

Personally I chase every hole in the block then chamfer them and deburr any sharp edges as part of my normal prep work.

What tool do you use to chamfer the holes?

 

[IJ.]

A single hole countersink

and for deburring one of these

And I finish up with polishing rolls in the Dremel

 

[jdub]

Ah, i see, but aren't the studs supposed to only go in finger tight though? Wouldn't you really have to crank them down to cause them to crack the block? Is it 100% necessary they be bottomed out in the hole?

I didn't realize chasing block threads was so difficult


Ian - I do exactly the same as you...same tools too!

 

[Poodles]

Hey, cleaning the threads in my block took hours...

Bolts use about half the depth of the hole, studs have to go in deeper or you'll run out of threads on the top and never toque them down correctly...

Back to the subject at hand, if it's a MHG, you MIGHT be able to retorque it and get it to seal, but it's a crapshot at this point as the Viton on the gasket might be gone.

 

[jdub]

Hey, cleaning the threads in my block took hours...and killed hundreds of brain cells due to the beers between each one

Fixed that for ya

 

[Poodles]

I don't drink LOL

My block was just that bad, I bet if it was cleaned at a machine shop it would have been easier, but the shit in the holes was nasty...