head bolt torque specs

[thebadz32]

well im replaceing the head gasket on my car i bought a beck arnley hg set and had the head milled down 7thousadths i bought oem toyota head bolts from the dealer my haynes manual says torque them down to 58 foot pounds. Is that what i should torque them down to or should i go more? if more how much more?

 

[suprahero]

I'd buy ARP head studs and torque them to 70lbs. You can always take the toyota bolts back, but that's just me. Good luck.

 

[thebadz32]

I'd buy ARP head studs and torque them to 70lbs. You can always take the toyota bolts back, but that's just me. Good luck.

ive already got the toyota bolts in and torqued down to 58 ft pounds its not boosted and i didnt have the extra money for the arp's

 

[jdub]

Torque the stock head bolts to 70-72 ft/lbs.

 

[castrol supra]

Torque the stock head bolts to 70-72 ft/lbs.

Yes as staying where you are will blow your new gasket.

Why am I hearing so much about beck arnley lately?

Is autozone the only parts house around in your necks of the wood?

Make sure you remember to retorque the head bolts in 1000 miles after you get her up and running.

Fixing these cars on the cheap will blow up in your face. I don't get you guys that don't at least aspire to use toyota oem. Especially for this application. That's about as ''low grade'' as any supra owner should stoup.

Then again. That's just my opinion.

 

[suprahero]

Torque the stock head bolts to 70-72 ft/lbs.

:cry:.......I was close......I said 70lbs..............:nono:
I'm such a loser!!!!!!!
















Sorry John, I haven't had my medication today.........:biglaugh:

 

[thebadz32]

so just to clear this up every one is sayng to take them down to 70 ft pounds. because leaveing it at 58 will cause the hg to blow again.

 

[suprahero]

YES. 100% torque them to 72lbs. I'd do it now instead of waiting for the 1000miles.

 

[thebadz32]

ok thanks

 

[jdub]

:cry:.......I was close......I said 70lbs..............:nono:
I'm such a loser!!!!!!!








Sorry John, I haven't had my medication today.........:biglaugh:

LMAO...You also said ARP studs



(those are 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube)

so just to clear this up every one is sayng to take them down to 70 ft pounds. because leaveing it at 58 will cause the hg to blow again.

Assuming stock head bolts...yes.
Torque them to that value now...do a re-torque after at least 5 complete heat up/cool down cycles.

 

[castrol supra]

I meant the retorque as a seperate thing. In another 1000 miles.

 

[suprahero]

LMAO...You also said ARP studs



(those are 80 ft/lbs using moly for lube)




Assuming stock head bolts...yes.
Torque them to that value now...do a re-torque after at least 5 complete heat up/cool down cycles.

I thought that ARP's were 80lbs. also, but mine for my 1jz I just put in said to torque to 70lbs. That's what the instructions that came in the ARP box said to do so that's what I did. I kept wanting to torque them down more, but decided to go with the instructions................:aigo:

 

[castrol supra]

I did my studs to 85.

I have put a few heat cycles on it and right under 10 miles.

This thread has inspired me to pull my covers, since I have the air intake and plenum off and check those bad boys.

I'll be going to 90.

 

[jdub]

<sigh> The more you torque above spec, the more you impinge on the safety margin ARP has spec'ed for their fasteners. ARP stud torque spec's are based on 75&#37; of their yield strength...over torquing can ruin the fastener or (worst case) cause failure. Especially on an aluminum head where the greater expansion due to heat comes into play. The lube used also has a big effect on the correct torque value.

Read this:
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html

The torque ARP lists for it's studs is plenty...more is not better.

 

[castrol supra]

Alright then. I'll check them and see if I can put them back to where I had them.

Thank You.

I just hear of so many people running higher powered engines than the 7mge and exceeding 100 lbs.

 

[jdub]

Don't do that. Do a re-torque like you said, just don't go any higher than what your at now. To do a re-torque properly, you "crack" the nuts counter clockwise ~ 1/8 - 1/4 turn, then torque back to spec. In this case, go to 85 ft/lbs to keep the same force on the HG. Follow the TSRM sequence...do one (crack to re-torque) at a time.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Hope you caught him in time jdub.

 

[castrol supra]

I haven't touched anything yet guys.

I getcha.

Thank You. I'm highly appreciative.

 

[suprahero]

I haven't touched anything yet guys.

I getcha.

Thank You. I'm highly appreciative.

Good answer. Use the same answer if the cops ask if you were messing with the neighbors sixteen year old daughter.........:naughty:

I haven't touched anything yet guys.

 

[jdub]

LMAO...Sir, I swear she told me she was 20!


BTW Jay - I didn't know the ARP spec was 70 ft/lbs for the 1JZ (I assume using moly). Is the spec the same for the 2JZ motor? Just curious since you're using a IJZ head on a 2JZ block.