i usualy pull the motor, but i have dropped trannies in these cars before it's not to redicuolsy hard.
drain your oil out of the tranny to keep it from leaking every where, it doesn't smell good and stains concret even better.
first, you need some basic tools:
4-5 6inch 3/8 extensions
10,12,14 ,17 and A 19mm sockets
3.5 qourts! tranny gear oil.
good time to change your oil too!
air tools always work good~!
i usualy use the 19mm last while puttin the drive shaft back in,
alright to start you want to drop the drive shaft so you can actualy move the tranny back when you have it loose, there are 2 bolts for the center carrer that need to come out, becareful there is dust and road grim, also there are TWO washers one for each bolt that must go on the top side of the center bearing to help get the angle correct.
there is a brace bar or a saftey bar located a little bit more ot the rear from the center bearing, pull one bolt and loosen the other, to move it down out of the way,
now you can move the center bearing and get the drive shaft to slide and drop out of the tranny,
remove 4 bolts on the tranny brace, there is a key to doing this, loosen them all, then pull them out in a pattern, and make a couple passes, this way you dont yank the threads on the last bolt when it drops the last inch.
yes you read right, i do this with out a tranny support up to when i have the top two bolts out.
the long extenstions if you slide them on either side of the shifter or tail housing, you can almost hit them with out an extra hand. having air tools here rocks!
after the top 2 are out, i pull the ground staps off, being i dont want to remember these last second, i also pull of the bolt that anchors therubber line for the clutch slave, with the rubber line loose you should be able to manouver the line enough to fit a 12mm socket in and get the bottom bolt out, then pull the top,
once the clutch slave is out, pull the inspection plate on the slave side, and pull the clutch fork towards the back of the car, releasing the fork from the lock, and pull towards the ground in the angle the fork points, it should pop right out, if it doesn't yank on it or tug!
for instalation just reverse this step! but make sure it pivots and works before road testing.
now with the tranny hanging, and the top two bolts out and every thing else out of the way, you still have the shifter to pull out using a 10mm to pull the shift boot and dust/noise boot, you may also need a phillips skrew driver to pull the dash/consol out. one skrew on the dash by the ignition ,bottom side.,
and another infront of the driver side on the driver side of the console. you will also have a few in the ashtray 4, then the rest is held in with snaps.
make sure the tranny is jacked and secure at this point cause it moves fast.
now below the car again, loosin the tranny wings 2 bolts on each side of the engine block, dont remove these bolts just loosen so the wings will adjust when you remove and install the tranny again,
the 4 bolts on the bottom of the tranny that go to the wings remove them now,
and you have one more on the exhaust side about the same height as the one holding the rubber clutch line on, also coming in from the same side'
now give the tranny a good jiggle and tug pull and you should be able to slide it out of the piliot bearing and down off the motor,
now you have your clutch still on the engine
six 12mm bolts and then use a skrew driver to help pry the clutch cover off the locating pins,
a 17mm is used to remove the flywheel bolts, x6, i belive torque is 54ftlbs on them.
if your clutch kit comes with a clutch tool you can put it back together by bolt the clutch on to the back of the engine and then luggin the tranny back on there,
if it doesn't put the new clutch cover with the hub and bearing in it, into the tranny first, then insert the clutch disk onto the input shaft spring side toward the clutch pressure plate, and push them as far back as they would go, doing it this way, right now is the best time to put the fork back in, by sliddin it in the same way it came out pulling it so it's tip is closest to the slave hole.
when the tranny is bolted on, and you need to bolt the clutch cover/pressure plate to the flywheel, do so in steps or a pattern, so it doesn't get stuck or angled onto the pins,
if you have balencing marks from your machine shop, it's time to line those up,
i usualy put one bolt in each whole get them threaded and work my way around skipping a bolt and every third bolt i changed rotation,
i belive the torque on these are low like 12-15ftlbs.
when you have the tranny back in the car, tack the drive shaft and get the center bearing low and put the shaft onto the tail of the tranny, if it is hard to go on this is where the 19 comes into play, have some one turn the motor around whitch will work the out put shaft of the tranny even in neutral, if you have bad problems with doing this, try puttin it in gear,
and if you have problems gettin good angles, you can drop the tranny cross brace and gain more angle room.
