Fuse Box Relocation
- Thread starter RedPhoenix
- Start date
RedPhoenix;1514199 said:
http://www.hvccycle.com/Crimping Instructions.htm
But I don't use that stripper. I use the squeezer that pulls it apart.
Do not relocate it in the rear of the car you are adding to the wire alot adding weight adding possible problems by lengthening the wire guage that much.
Relocate the battery to the back is a good idea if done right.
The only place I would relocating it to is under the steering column or next to the driver left kick panel fuse block.
I moved all of my fuse boxes there including the passenger side kick panel one.
Also when doing this I removed the outer plastic crap from fuse box no 2 the actual fuse block inside the box is about 1/4 the size when removing the top cover bottom cover then trimming off the extra plastic around it. If you do this into is not safe for external or harsh eviromental placement and must go under the dash like the other box.
Since i have a 1JZ with no AC no windisheld washer(relocated to brake booster area) no AC pressure switches or relays removing all thats stuff helped.
The only relocated wiring that remains is the right floor kick panel haves a thick white wire in the passenger fender instead you will route that wire under the dash to the fuse box under the column
Then you have to extend only 2 wires about 6 feet and that is the headlight wires left right side.
Everything else can run behinds the dash to the fuse box.
This is the only way to do it and do it right moving it under the driver fender kind of works but its hard to keep the enviroment safe there especially with plastics removed.
& if you remove the plastics dont route your wires under the fender run them above because they will drop onto the tires and get eatin alive.
if you have no plastics and run the wires above the fender it defeats have the fuse box out of the way under the fender.
The only way I would even think about running wires under the fenders with no plastics is if you use wire clamps like used in aircraft or Strong zipties instead of the OEM weak little plastic fastlocks that drop the harness onto the tires.
Relocate the battery to the back is a good idea if done right.
The only place I would relocating it to is under the steering column or next to the driver left kick panel fuse block.
I moved all of my fuse boxes there including the passenger side kick panel one.
Also when doing this I removed the outer plastic crap from fuse box no 2 the actual fuse block inside the box is about 1/4 the size when removing the top cover bottom cover then trimming off the extra plastic around it. If you do this into is not safe for external or harsh eviromental placement and must go under the dash like the other box.
Since i have a 1JZ with no AC no windisheld washer(relocated to brake booster area) no AC pressure switches or relays removing all thats stuff helped.
The only relocated wiring that remains is the right floor kick panel haves a thick white wire in the passenger fender instead you will route that wire under the dash to the fuse box under the column
Then you have to extend only 2 wires about 6 feet and that is the headlight wires left right side.
Everything else can run behinds the dash to the fuse box.
This is the only way to do it and do it right moving it under the driver fender kind of works but its hard to keep the enviroment safe there especially with plastics removed.
& if you remove the plastics dont route your wires under the fender run them above because they will drop onto the tires and get eatin alive.
if you have no plastics and run the wires above the fender it defeats have the fuse box out of the way under the fender.
The only way I would even think about running wires under the fenders with no plastics is if you use wire clamps like used in aircraft or Strong zipties instead of the OEM weak little plastic fastlocks that drop the harness onto the tires.
Out of curiousity why wouldn't you want to solder the wires when doing this? I've always had problems with crimp connectors but never with soldered connections. I solder and heat shrink all my connections together without any problems. I did a test solder on the 2nd thickest gauge wire in the fuse box (the one in the engine bay) today and it soldered together just fine. Mind you I used a small butane blow torch to heat up the wires but I was able to fully soak the connection in solder rosin with ease.
honestabe;1595343 said:
Couple of whys.
1. neither lead nor tin conduct electricity as good as aluminum or cooper. Which means higher resistance at the solder point which means HUGE potential for failure under high current.
2. Soldering will always allows the solder from seeping past the point where you need it, no strain relief, insta-break point.
crimp breaking means, as I mentioned numerous times. CRAP crimpers.
See my wire thread for the RIGHT tools for the RIGHT job.
btw ask anyone that has ever worked in the aerospace industry. Soldering = short lived career in that field. Crimp with the proper tools will ALWAYS be superior to solder. Take that to the bank (and bet your ass on it too as everytime you fly, 98% of connections are crimped to circular connectors. Hell even car manufactures ALWAYS crimp pins on to the wires. No solder there). Even waaay back in 87.
It all falls back to
RIGHT tool for the RIGHT job.
There is still a time and place for solder even in aerospace,
Shileding Zaps solder shrink shileds etc
Even some data bus RF connector pins SMT requires solder still
Certain pins that dont allow or crimps in cannon plugs rf connectors etc...
There is exceptions but like everyone saying crimp enviromentaly sealed pins are the best and ultimate way to go other then replacing with a solid single wire brand new.
Shileding Zaps solder shrink shileds etc
Even some data bus RF connector pins SMT requires solder still
Certain pins that dont allow or crimps in cannon plugs rf connectors etc...
There is exceptions but like everyone saying crimp enviromentaly sealed pins are the best and ultimate way to go other then replacing with a solid single wire brand new.
So now I need to find some good crimp-on connectors. Suggestions on what connectors and crimpers to use?
same here, planning on doing this may be in a couple days or even tomorrow, also any one has pics of there installed in a new location?
Sure I use Aerospace grade everything.
For the crimper
Use sargent/molex usa tools
fallow crimper page here
http://store.crimptools.com/categor...mp;n=20&p=8&orderby=quantity&orderway=asc
specific link to item is
http://store.crimptools.com/product.php?id_product=81
The splices you want is red blue maybe 5 yellows not sure
Here is the mil sepc enviromental splices
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=1274328
Enjoy!
For the crimper
Use sargent/molex usa tools
fallow crimper page here
http://store.crimptools.com/categor...mp;n=20&p=8&orderby=quantity&orderway=asc
specific link to item is
http://store.crimptools.com/product.php?id_product=81
The splices you want is red blue maybe 5 yellows not sure
Here is the mil sepc enviromental splices
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=1274328
Enjoy!
Holy crap look at those prices!
Heavy D, I'm putting mine inside the dash just behind the glove box. I should note that my dash is an empty shell and I have no heat or A/C and have removed anything not necessary.
Heavy D, I'm putting mine inside the dash just behind the glove box. I should note that my dash is an empty shell and I have no heat or A/C and have removed anything not necessary.
Its easiest is to mount next to the other fuses driverside kickpanel just have it drop down to access fuses then you can run the Efi ea2 wires battery alternator wires through the speedo hole which is where all my 1jz wires go anyway then run and extend only the headlight wires to the fuse box. this assuming you removed all the AC stuff frees up a lot.
Evilempire1.3JZ-GTE;1596604 said:
Pic of where you mounted yours? I looked and can't fathom any space above the drivers feet for the 2nd fuse box. As far as I know I removed all my A/C stuff. I'm having a hard time visualizing.
Last edited:
honestabe;1596578 said:
well let me add more
to those prices.Those prices are JUST the crimpers.
For the AF-8/AFM-8/MH860. those require ADDITIONAL parts which are called positioners or turrets. Add $40 per positioner to about $70+ for turrets.
On the Crimper for connectors, no need for the Daniels MFG at this point. The seargent one is a nice crimper but make sure the die it uses are for the connector you are using/planning to use. Otherwise, CRAP crimp again.
Nea you dont need the gold luggers or pin crimpers turrets that sargent tool comes with the positioner sometimes the guys where i worked would take it off the barrel crimpers because there is so little space at some splices.
