Furious But Lazy 7M owner who gave Up.
- Thread starter Turbo Habanero
- Start date
I'm no expert but this looks like an electrode indentation on your piston man..... look at the wearmark here on this pic looks like your pistons are slamming the plugs....?
You took a good side pic of 3 plugs, and not the rest......are the bottoms of your plugs worn or bent wtfff did you check the plug gap across all plugs to see if theyre in spec.....I dunno I think your pistons are hitting the plugs
If youre playing guinea pig with those ngk's and piston dome on those CP's bro I think you ought to look into different plugs. I think that's the problem. If im right you drive to MN and give me a ride in that car kthankzzz?
You took a good side pic of 3 plugs, and not the rest......are the bottoms of your plugs worn or bent wtfff did you check the plug gap across all plugs to see if theyre in spec.....I dunno I think your pistons are hitting the plugs
If youre playing guinea pig with those ngk's and piston dome on those CP's bro I think you ought to look into different plugs. I think that's the problem. If im right you drive to MN and give me a ride in that car kthankzzz?
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That pic is of cylinder number four
I looked at all plugs and all are seem to be untouched by the pistons.
Also it wouldn't explain why the sound is slow or why it comes and goes.
In this photo the plug at the bottom of the picture is plug #4
I looked at all plugs and all are seem to be untouched by the pistons.
Also it wouldn't explain why the sound is slow or why it comes and goes.
In this photo the plug at the bottom of the picture is plug #4
Just from eyeballing that top plug in your pic looks like the gap is off? Do you have a gapping tool? Check that gap across all plugs. Then check to see what NGK reccomends the gap to be for a 1jzgte for your particular plug model. I hope youll find your current gap where your plugs measured at are way off. I hope at least.
If non conclusive, ask your guy if he has a bore scope and have him come over again. If not, you can rent one somewhere or borrow one, check if valves are hitting your piston before you yank the head. That should be the cheapest route. I think your piston is touching the plug. Rods may stretch over time, the machining done would bring the head closer to the block as well. Not to mention your possible head gasket choice. I can visibly see the electrode mark on your piston. Well, at least, it sure friggin looks like it anyway....
I've learned my lesson by not divulging info to people while they are workin on my shit. I try to keep my mouth closed cause it always backfires at me. They say shit like "ya that's what it is" and shit. When I know theyre wrong. Everybody on this Earth loves to make a buck or two, but some are honest.
For instance, the dealer at toyota wants 100 bucks to "set" specific , or how long your engine runs for on auto remote start, vehicle options like auto locking doors, or just 1 door. There is a workaround to this...wanna know what it is? Open door close door open door lock button unlock unlock lock close door. There you just saved 100 fucking dollars. lolwtffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu! <-----Thats not what it is but really close lol. I'm not ripping toyota as a company, personally, I just want people to have more damn money in their own stinking pockets! That's what I thought this crazy fucking internet should really be about.
You can yank the cams, but it's really not going to show you really much besides wear and tear. The lobes just ride over the buckets over the springs and retainers. On the other side, the timing belt should have a measured degree of flex. Meaning when you wiggle the belt, the belt should have some play in a measurable increment, I don't know what it is on a 1jzgte non vvti, or the spot to measure the flex appropriately.
You can yank the cams, bring each cylinder to the top and press on the buckets to see if you can hear a noise, but that's absolutely ridiculous to do. As a human i know you wont have enough strength to push your bucket down to make the valve contact the piston at all. Not to mention if that valve is already bent. I'm a complete fool even for speaking or mentioning this to you in this way, but it's hypothetical. Have you seen vids of guys with that blue point retainer tool? sure footed with the head at a comfortable level is tough as shit as it is. Not to mention need to hold the valve on the other side so it doesnt fall out. Try to do that on top of your engine with the head sealed up and drop that valve in there youre screwed. good luck, aint gonna happen.
If your timing is indeed off in the first place, that would solve this whole debacle.
Not to mention if this noise isnt even coming from the internals, but it sure as shit sounds like it.
I know I'm long winded and spew alot of garbage sometimes. Don't take my advice as gold. Please don't. You work hard for what you have to throw it away on some stupid troll noob's advice like me.
Sorry for coming in here and puking in your beutiful thread man. I'm just leading you closer to danger I think. My last post in here I promise. Good luck man.
If non conclusive, ask your guy if he has a bore scope and have him come over again. If not, you can rent one somewhere or borrow one, check if valves are hitting your piston before you yank the head. That should be the cheapest route. I think your piston is touching the plug. Rods may stretch over time, the machining done would bring the head closer to the block as well. Not to mention your possible head gasket choice. I can visibly see the electrode mark on your piston. Well, at least, it sure friggin looks like it anyway....
I've learned my lesson by not divulging info to people while they are workin on my shit. I try to keep my mouth closed cause it always backfires at me. They say shit like "ya that's what it is" and shit. When I know theyre wrong. Everybody on this Earth loves to make a buck or two, but some are honest.
For instance, the dealer at toyota wants 100 bucks to "set" specific , or how long your engine runs for on auto remote start, vehicle options like auto locking doors, or just 1 door. There is a workaround to this...wanna know what it is? Open door close door open door lock button unlock unlock lock close door. There you just saved 100 fucking dollars. lolwtffffuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuu! <-----Thats not what it is but really close lol. I'm not ripping toyota as a company, personally, I just want people to have more damn money in their own stinking pockets! That's what I thought this crazy fucking internet should really be about.
You can yank the cams, but it's really not going to show you really much besides wear and tear. The lobes just ride over the buckets over the springs and retainers. On the other side, the timing belt should have a measured degree of flex. Meaning when you wiggle the belt, the belt should have some play in a measurable increment, I don't know what it is on a 1jzgte non vvti, or the spot to measure the flex appropriately.
You can yank the cams, bring each cylinder to the top and press on the buckets to see if you can hear a noise, but that's absolutely ridiculous to do. As a human i know you wont have enough strength to push your bucket down to make the valve contact the piston at all. Not to mention if that valve is already bent. I'm a complete fool even for speaking or mentioning this to you in this way, but it's hypothetical. Have you seen vids of guys with that blue point retainer tool? sure footed with the head at a comfortable level is tough as shit as it is. Not to mention need to hold the valve on the other side so it doesnt fall out. Try to do that on top of your engine with the head sealed up and drop that valve in there youre screwed. good luck, aint gonna happen.
If your timing is indeed off in the first place, that would solve this whole debacle.
Not to mention if this noise isnt even coming from the internals, but it sure as shit sounds like it.
I know I'm long winded and spew alot of garbage sometimes. Don't take my advice as gold. Please don't. You work hard for what you have to throw it away on some stupid troll noob's advice like me.
Sorry for coming in here and puking in your beutiful thread man. I'm just leading you closer to danger I think. My last post in here I promise. Good luck man.
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The plugs are NGK bkr7's gapped to .028 I've never had problem with these plugs on any of the motors I've ran 7M and 1J's
Also when cranking the car with no fuel or spark and the plugs removed it sounds normal. You can look down into each cylinder and everything seems to be looking and sounding good.
at the point I think it's just the smart decision to start pulling it a part. Inspecting every thing thoughly until I find something. Worst comes to worst we go through the whole engine again.
Money is really not the downer here for me. It's more of the work that was put into this and to have it not pay off is a shame.
The machine shop put this motor together from oil pan to head being bolted on.
Cp pistons
Rings
Bearing main and rod stock size
Stock rods
Full valve job
Stock replacement mhg
I was told very little was taken off of the head and block to make it the correct RA.
I had even asked them if I needed to go with a thicker head gasket and was told it was good and that I did not.
Last time I spoke With the shop they said if I pull the motor that they would go through it for me again.
Also when cranking the car with no fuel or spark and the plugs removed it sounds normal. You can look down into each cylinder and everything seems to be looking and sounding good.
at the point I think it's just the smart decision to start pulling it a part. Inspecting every thing thoughly until I find something. Worst comes to worst we go through the whole engine again.
Money is really not the downer here for me. It's more of the work that was put into this and to have it not pay off is a shame.
The machine shop put this motor together from oil pan to head being bolted on.
Cp pistons
Rings
Bearing main and rod stock size
Stock rods
Full valve job
Stock replacement mhg
I was told very little was taken off of the head and block to make it the correct RA.
I had even asked them if I needed to go with a thicker head gasket and was told it was good and that I did not.
Last time I spoke With the shop they said if I pull the motor that they would go through it for me again.
This knock sounds a lot more aggressive than the previous knock not to mention it's much faster. I would have to say that atleast pull the oil pan and try to move the connecting rods and look for heat marks.
Two sounds now, two pistons look like they got the same indentation marks, what is on the top of this one too? Looks like a ball of crap, and an electrode mark as well for 2 pistons hitting. Used to sound like just one specific knock in your gopro vid at night, I will agree also the sound is faster. Rather, Im saying 2 pistons are hitting now. Kind of imitates rod knock sound, but it not as fast as rod knock sounds as Ive heard on that youtube either.I can't stop posting in here, okay Ill back off now. I wonder if you got the right thickness HG as ordered. I dunno, again good luck.
are the CP guys running those bkr7's? Are all bkr7's the same size? I see different plug numbers like bkr7e and shit. Granted, Im just getting into the jz world too. I just recently started researching myself. nvm
When you were in the bathroom or someshit did they loosen your plugs to make the noise go away? Im just speaking of the sunburst of carbon around your plug boot area. And Im trying to be open to anything as well, even a crappy job. Were those plugs torqued pretty good er what. Cause at whatever rpm, thise pistons create quite wallop of power. Enough to jiggle those plugs up a lil bit and carbon mark up to your boot area or what? I dont think so that electrode Id think would be whacked to shit. Was it even tightened down good?
As for why you electrode didn't get bent to shit idunno, what was the CP spec sheet indicating for PTW lol I forget some people on those forums say .035 cant remember if its .0035 or .035 I dunno I dont have 750 bucks for cp's lol. I dont even think you can realistically machine .0035 lol with ANY tool made that doesnt cost 100 thousand dollars. if your gap is .028, I think im talking stupid shit but if your piston shifts .017 it may give enough headroom not to bend that electrode too much to cause the piston would rock that small amount in the bore. And who knows what your machine shop machined the bore to. Thats ridiculous to say I know lol but its a theory. Also that PTW clearance is for like 4032 aluminum or whatever, I hear these "newer" style forged are stronger or called 4130 or somesuchshit so you dont have to machine that far PTW for that so called "thermal expansion" so this so called "piston slap" doesnt occur.
Someone call me a bitchtroll already and add a DIAF for good measure so I can feel good about life kthnks.
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IndigoMKII;1890585 said:
Like I said it comes and goes gets worse then goes away.
I'm at the point where I'm going to just redo it all over again and pray I don't have to buy new pistons.
let the bottom end be the last thing you tear into, i have a hunch that youll find it before then..
After going and looking over all the pistons they look fine and undamaged on top. But they are a little wet.
Looks like clear water so I'm assuming its fuel.
Looks like clear water so I'm assuming its fuel.
Those bright spots in the piston photos are probably just the flash reflecting off the piston surface.
snowman;1890745 said:
I can tell you with 100% certainty that the plugs are not touching the piston.
Is it unreasonable? Yes.
Why?
BKR7E are the plugs that are used on MANY JZ engines and they don't cause any issue.
How am I so sure?
I have numerous friends who run the same plug and I myself have went into JZ engines before and yes, not only a 2JZ but a 1JZ as well.
Driftmotion has used these plugs as well as other members on here and don't have an issue.
So please stop posting as its pretty much not helping.
For what its worth, up here in NY, seeing a JZ built with CP pistons is nothing new and none of them have piston slap....they are actually really quiet. It comes down to the clearance that was used and one machine shop that a local shop used has put together all the 2JZ that come out of his shop and they are fine. Those CP pistons what Aaron sells are similar to the 2JZ ones but are INDEED a 1JZ piston. A few years back people use to use 2JZ pistons in there 1JZ engine and they worked absolutely fine.
Here is one that ran the other day...
[video=youtube;RLnQ2Iy1V6Y]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLnQ2Iy1V6Y[/video]
Ya but the OEM 2jz pistons look to have a deeper dish...are these cp's then the same as sold for a 2jz application dish, dome, wrist pin location and all? The OEM 1jz have a flat top the 2jz OEMS at least look like theyre rounded Im saying if your gap is less than .028 what is it now that "may be" crushed, those plugs look squished kinda even if the gap measures at now .018 im saying it got squished .010 or so...
So cp just kept them the same from the 1jz style for the universal fitment across both engines?
TH are you saying you "double checked" the gap and it is indeed still at around .028? Thats all Im saying. And also Im not talking about piston slap at all, or piston to wall clearance, TH's situation sounds alot worse than a little piston slap. if anything Im wondering what head gasket size he actually got installed.
So cp just kept them the same from the 1jz style for the universal fitment across both engines?
TH are you saying you "double checked" the gap and it is indeed still at around .028? Thats all Im saying. And also Im not talking about piston slap at all, or piston to wall clearance, TH's situation sounds alot worse than a little piston slap. if anything Im wondering what head gasket size he actually got installed.
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