Fuel Pump/No power to relay area

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
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San Antonio, TX
Dirgle;1943017 said:
Like JJ said, since the +B to FP jump bypasses everything, no point in trying another COR. Are you sure there is enough fuel in there to start the car? Not going by what the gauge says but did you physically put enough in to start the car?

Yes I put a couple gallons in, I'm gonna have the blonde come out and turn it over while I listen for the pump in the morning, if I hear the pump goin then I'll get some more gas for it
 

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
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San Antonio, TX
jetjock;1943015 said:
NAs do have a COR. My bad. As I said +B to FP bypasses all that stuff. With them jumped and the key on the pump should run. The switch in the AFM keeps it running after the engine starts. Pushing on the AFM vane should also start the pump but if the pump won't run with +B/FP jumped something else is wrong. All you need to get +B is the main relay and if the MIL comes on with the key the relay is working.

Where would you suggest looking from that point? Cuz I already checked the pump and it works, so should I just do 12v from that point?
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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The pictures were for someone who wants to bypass the relay that switches the fuel pump between 9V and 12V operation. Plug that thing back in and go over to the driver side of the car with a paper clip. Open the diagnostic connector by the fuse box and jumper the B+ and the FP, the try to start the car.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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yhatzee89;1942044 said:
Is that what this is? If so, where is it located?

p1943083_1.jpg

For the record, the default position of the fuel pump relay is 12V. All you have to do is disconnect the switching portion of the relay that would turn it to the resisitor.
 

yhatzee89

Joe Yantz
Aug 31, 2012
977
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San Antonio, TX
I did! Dirgle texted me and walked me through testing portions of the entire fuel circuit and I must have moved a loose wire because in the middle of testing we got power back to the fuel system and it runs fine now :)
 

Dirgle

Conjurer of Boost
Mar 30, 2005
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The first thing we checked for was for the pump to be running with +B to FP jumped and the ignition on......No running pump.

So then we tested for 12v at the +B pin in the Diag connector.......No Voltage

The next step was to check the EFI fuse and test for 12v....Good, found 12v

Next we tested the EFI main relay with the ignition turned on.... Only had power to pin 1, should be power on pin 1 and pin 4. This indicates that the ECU isn't sending the M-Rel signal.

Then we checked the 7.5amp IGN fuse.....This fuse had no power with the key on.

Followed this back to the Ignition switch connector under the steering column. Checked power on pin 8, a white wire with a red tracer......showed 12v, good.

At this point Yhatzee89 retested the IGN fuse and found power.......After seeing this he tried to start the car again and it fired right up.

It's good that the car is working but it always bothers me when things fix themselves like this without a specific solution. It usually means that the problem will reappear at some point. The only difference I can guess at is that a lot maneuvering and pulling has to be done to access the ignition switch connector to preform testing on it. This may have reseated the contacts in the connector or switch itself. Still it's just a guess, not a definitive solution and it bothers me. Either way the car is running, and thats a plus.