fuel and vacuum troubleshoot
- Thread starter 7M4EVR
- Start date
Time for (another) stupid ?. I noticed that any time my crank pulley is set at 0° the lines on the cam gears match up with the timing cover just like they should and cyl 1 seems to be at TDC but my can lobe is never pointing up when I look through the oil hole is this normal or do I have a timing issue here?
I revisited how to set timing and it says line up crank pulley with 0 and make sure cam lobe is pointing up and piston is at TDC. Then it goes on to instruct you to rotate the cam gears until the lines line up and put the belt on. Therefore it seems there is a possibility that if your cam lobe was pointing up and then you rotate the gears to line up the lines it is likely the cam lobe is no longer pointing up....good grief I'm clueless.
There's nothing worse than not knowing the problem. I would rather know what the problem was even if it meant it would take an entire day to fix it rather than not know anything.
I revisited how to set timing and it says line up crank pulley with 0 and make sure cam lobe is pointing up and piston is at TDC. Then it goes on to instruct you to rotate the cam gears until the lines line up and put the belt on. Therefore it seems there is a possibility that if your cam lobe was pointing up and then you rotate the gears to line up the lines it is likely the cam lobe is no longer pointing up....good grief I'm clueless.
There's nothing worse than not knowing the problem. I would rather know what the problem was even if it meant it would take an entire day to fix it rather than not know anything.
If the cam timing was that far off it wouldn't even run. No.1 TDC, with all the marks lined up is the proper way to set cam timing.
The cam lobe pointing up is for setting the CPS. Basically you rotate the engine until you see the cam lobe pointing up, and then you rotate the engine a certain number of degrees again to get it at no.1 TDC compression. The only reason the cam lobe is mentioned is to know that it is on compression rather than exhaust. The cam lobe shouldn't be pointing up at no.1 TDC compression.
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The cam lobe pointing up is for setting the CPS. Basically you rotate the engine until you see the cam lobe pointing up, and then you rotate the engine a certain number of degrees again to get it at no.1 TDC compression. The only reason the cam lobe is mentioned is to know that it is on compression rather than exhaust. The cam lobe shouldn't be pointing up at no.1 TDC compression.
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Symptoms support a blocked fuel line. Seems like any fuel demand results in low pressure. Next step is to check fuel filter, fuel pump, FPR, and lines for crimps and blockage.
3p141592654;1970601 said:
This would be the case even if I get the right amount of fuel pressure with fp and +B jumped and the ign on? The only time im not getting the fuel i need is when the car is started.
With the engine off there is no fuel demand, all the injectors are off. You could try energizing an injector with the engine off and FP/B+ bridged to see if fuel pressure drops.
It's able to maintain the pressure because like 3p said, there's no demand on the system. That's why when the engine is running, you're getting shit for fuel pressure. I've said this in post #13, you're getting a fuel problem.
What voltage are you getting at the fuel pump? You've bypassed the resistors so you should see battery voltage at the fuel pump with the key off, what is it with the engine running?
What voltage are you getting at the fuel pump? You've bypassed the resistors so you should see battery voltage at the fuel pump with the key off, what is it with the engine running?
3p141592654;1970664 said:
like i said im pretty much electrically challenged but i tried this...to energize my injector i just brought a connector that goes from my battery positive to one terminal of the injector through the top of my injector clip (with a little probe). no change in fuel pressure but didnt hear the injector click or anythign so doubt i powered it correctly.
IndigoMKII;1970703 said:
How do I measure voltage at the pump? can i do it from the clips on top of the access to the top of the tank? Or do i have to drop the tank and get to the positive and neg of the pump?
well from the fuel pump connector i get around 12 V both when car is idling AND with just the ign on and fp and B+ jumped. I'm going to try and pull the fuel filter off and use a rubber hose to bypass it and see what that does to fuel pressure. I'm also thinking of returning back to the stock fuel pressure regulator.
i'm about done working on this thing...lol ready to take it to a shop and say fix this they would be pissed lol and rake me over the coals for all that diagnostic work.
i'm about done working on this thing...lol ready to take it to a shop and say fix this they would be pissed lol and rake me over the coals for all that diagnostic work.
only thing i did different was check the voltage at the pump and then after checking for fuel pressure with fp and b+ i dont get anything on my afpr gauge. I started tracing it back. At my fuel feed line im getting nice pressure, at the fuel pulsation dampner im getting good pressure, at the CSI im getting good pressure, but at the fuel pressure regulator spot on the front of the fuel rail im not getting much more than a drip....so somewhere i have a problem between the CSI and the port in the fuel rail at the front of the rail. Now i cant get any pressure to the afpr.
And JJ not sure exactly how to perform a snap throttle test but when it was idling i would get -10 vacuum and if i snapped the throttle it would either get more vacuum for a split second then die or get less vacuum and die immediately
And JJ not sure exactly how to perform a snap throttle test but when it was idling i would get -10 vacuum and if i snapped the throttle it would either get more vacuum for a split second then die or get less vacuum and die immediately
Thanks for bearing with me thus far....I'm still plucking away (probably in all the wrong places)
Fuel pump resister and relay check out per TSRM. Next to check is circuit opening relay and solenoid resistor.
I believe this is just a restriction somewhere in the lines as i am just not getting the pressure i need at the end of the rail. However i'm not sure if it could be a wiring gremlin or not since the fuel system on this car seems to be very controlled by the TCCS. But if it were electrical, it's really weird how i have pressure at the feed side of the rail and not the return side of the rail with no wet cylinders (i cant see how this could happen unless i dont have as much pressure at the feed side of the rail as i think i do and the fuel cant make it past the CSI and the injectors).
Anyhow I have a fuel filter on order, and while replacing that i will disconnect the rail and blow air through the line. I guess all you can really do is go through the TSRM and eliminate things one by one...too bad there are like 900000 things to check when dealing with the EFI system.
Fuel pump resister and relay check out per TSRM. Next to check is circuit opening relay and solenoid resistor.
I believe this is just a restriction somewhere in the lines as i am just not getting the pressure i need at the end of the rail. However i'm not sure if it could be a wiring gremlin or not since the fuel system on this car seems to be very controlled by the TCCS. But if it were electrical, it's really weird how i have pressure at the feed side of the rail and not the return side of the rail with no wet cylinders (i cant see how this could happen unless i dont have as much pressure at the feed side of the rail as i think i do and the fuel cant make it past the CSI and the injectors).
Anyhow I have a fuel filter on order, and while replacing that i will disconnect the rail and blow air through the line. I guess all you can really do is go through the TSRM and eliminate things one by one...too bad there are like 900000 things to check when dealing with the EFI system.
do you have the bushings on top the injector? not only do tthey provide a good seal on the bottom but they also set the height inside the rail.
IndigoMKII;1970892 said:
yep. and i was very careful to set them in. I would smell or see fuel leaking if one of those fell out wouldnt I? I'm a little nervous that previously when i was jumping FP and +B i would get 36 with the ign on. Now that i went all around with a voltmeter and probing around i dont even get fuel to the afpr anymore, just to the rail...hope i short something else out.
IndigoMKII;1970703 said:
Hey....wait a minute...you might be on to something here...Was I supposed to bypass the resistors somehow with the 550's?
It is possible for the injector top of cylinder #6 to hit the pulsation damper threads protruding inside the rail as the two are aligned top of each other inside the rail. This can form a nice blockage. As said above, the injector grommets set the depth of the injector in the rail along with the three rail plastic isolators under the mount bolts. Check it all carefully. Your problem is not electrical.
3p141592654;1971023 said:
He said he's getting fuel at the CSI though, so it couldn't be that..
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