Freeze plug?

xms

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Jan 25, 2006
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I was driving my supra tonite and freaking freeze plug in the passenger side blows out my question could this be a bad thing considering that my block has just been rebuilt or could i have pressure going by my head gasket which has been deck properly with a titan metal head gasket and arp head studs on it.:1zhelp:
 

jdub

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Let me guess...Dorman freeze plugs? Was it the most forward plug (above the oil pressure sensor)?
 

xms

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actually it was the very back freeze plug towards the transmission
 

jdub

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That was going to be my 2nd guess...the front is more common. Dorman plugs are 4-5 thou under sized from Toyota OEM plugs...freeze plugs are a press fit. The front & read block mating surface is slightly recessed (front is worse), making it easy to mess up the install on these locations.

It's not likely you over pressurized the coolant system causing this...it's very likely the plugs were installed wrong. If they are Dorman, even worse.

You are going to have a really fun time installing that plug with the motor in the car. You'll need a freeze plug installation tool and an air hammer with a short, rounded off tool insert.

Freeze plug tool.jpg


I had to custom make a disc on the lathe to get the plug to recess properly.
 

xms

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what would be the best freeze plugs to get then? hopefully it should'nt be to bad i got her on the lift plus the down pipe is on with just a v band should'nt to bad I hope
 

jdub

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Toyota OEM...from the dealer ;)

Just to let you know...been there, done that. The problem is the space between the engine bay and the block. It can be done, but you are going to have fun getting the plug to line up and drive in straight.
 

jdub

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You're welcome. The good news is the rear is easier than the front. I would check that front one though ;)
(Hope your car didn't over heat too badly)
 

xms

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actually it happen just down the street from my shop when that plug blew i just coasted down to the shop did'nt even get warm
 

jdub

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You're lucky ;)
When a freeze plug blows, all the coolant is dumped on the ground in very short order.
 

xms

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o i know, when the antifreeze drop my tires broke lose in third gear that when i know i seriously screwed something up
 

jdub

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It's frustrating and takes forever because there is no room to work with the motor in the car. The way IJ said to install is the way to do it...it's impossible to do due to the lack of space to get a swing at it. The only way is to use an air hammer and the install disks. The plugs I replaced have all held doing it this way.
 

bfr1992t

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I usually resort to an appropriately sized "impact" socket and a 4-5lb sledgehammer. The Snap-on and similar tools just don't work in the engine bay. I avoid using permatex or any other sealer around the freeze plug as more often than not the plugs with it have blown out. Even if just one blew out you probably have others that have moved and are ready to go too. I'd replace all of them. You will probably have to remove the exhaust manifold and the coolant pipes to get to them. This is probably one of the worst jobs on these cars.
 

jdub

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bfr1992t;1309785 said:
I usually resort to an appropriately sized "impact" socket and a 4-5lb sledgehammer. The Snap-on and similar tools just don't work in the engine bay. I avoid using permatex or any other sealer around the freeze plug as more often than not the plugs with it have blown out. Even if just one blew out you probably have others that have moved and are ready to go too. I'd replace all of them. You will probably have to remove the exhaust manifold and the coolant pipes to get to them. This is probably one of the worst jobs on these cars.


You trying to tell me that you can swing a sledge hammer between the side of the engine bay and the block with enough force to drive the plug in? Have you ever replaced a plug with the motor in this car?

I have...several times. I'll tell what won't work...the hammer and socket technique with the motor in the car. To do it this way will require the engine to be lifted high enough to get at it.

The Snap-On tool will work, but you have to make a short driver for the air hammer out of a chisel to get the air hammer 90 deg to the block. I didn't remove the exhaust manifold or turbo either...the front/rear plugs are low enough on the block and below the coolant pipe to permit access. The middle plugs would be a different story.