Freeze plug?

[jdub]

Took me about a hour once I made the drive disk...I guess you can make it a all day affair by pulling the motor if you want

The big difference is these disks drive the plug in from the edge...effectively negates the problem using multiple light hits with a hammer/socket. I made this disk with a extra step so the plug will fully seat in the recess I spoke about earlier. The other side of the disk has an indent in the center to mate to the air hammer driver. This is a Toyota plug BTW.

 

[Mk3runner]

Freeze plugs..... Hahaha, the second engine in my ride blew the middle freeze plug doing over 120 per say the first owner.. When I got the pistons out which damn near impossible due to two of them melting and seizing. It was a mess. Your damn lucky like jdub said..

 

[Doward]

LOL, JDub, I don't mind - gives me a good chance to clean the engine bay again, and check things over (like say... inspecting bearings)

 

[Mk3runner]

Pull motor.

On another note I used red lock tite in the past doing plugs they been holding fine for a good while. Is this a good method? I've also seen clear silicon used.... Idk about that either.

 

[jdub]

RTV is useful to lube the press fit...I imagine Red Loctite would work too. Clear silicone, maybe...RTV would be better because of the heat rating.

 

[Mk3runner]

I learned the red loctite method from this local engine shop.

So rtv it sounds is best. There's a local 7m getting built soon so this is a good thread.. I should call him and get him posting.

 

[bfr1992t]

You trying to tell me that you can swing a sledge hammer between the side of the engine bay and the block with enough force to drive the plug in? Have you ever replaced a plug with the motor in this car?

I have...several times. I'll tell what won't work...the hammer and socket technique with the motor in the car. To do it this way will require the engine to be lifted high enough to get at it.

The Snap-On tool will work, but you have to make a short driver for the air hammer out of a chisel to get the air hammer 90 deg to the block. I didn't remove the exhaust manifold or turbo either...the front/rear plugs are low enough on the block and below the coolant pipe to permit access. The middle plugs would be a different story.

Yes, several times, and it's possible with the right sledge hammer without lifting the motor. That includes both the intake and exhaust sides. Geeze. :biglaugh: If you're careful enough you won't hit any thing else. I'm the one who found, long long ago back in the SOGI list days, that Dorman freeze plugs are not "close enough" and have advocated the use of Toyota freeze plugs only since. Funny how that info got around, eh?

Off to tune a built '92 Typhoon...

 

[JPsToyota]

I must be crazy - I just pull the motor. :dunno:

I definitely would also. If you have the right equipment to pull the motor, it sounds much easier than what most of you guys are suggesting.

I would be cussing and bleeding up a storm any other way. :biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

Yes, several times, and it's possible with the right sledge hammer without lifting the motor. That includes both the intake and exhaust sides. Geeze. :biglaugh: If you're careful enough you won't hit any thing else. I'm the one who found, long long ago back in the SOGI list days, that Dorman freeze plugs are not "close enough" and have advocated the use of Toyota freeze plugs only since. Funny how that info got around, eh?

Off to tune a built '92 Typhoon...

Then you're a better man than me with a BFH...I tried and couldn't do it with the turbo and manifold on the engine. The air hammer and disk on the other hand worked well....with a lot less "exercise"

I've been telling guys about Dorman plugs myself for a long time. It's one of those details that most machine shops overlook.

 

[Crypton2006]

I have had three pop out. I finaly pulled the motor to replace them all with Toyota plugs. I also had the rear one one the exaust side pop out twice.. lol