Free play on the crank pulley?

[6o4turbo]

Got some pics of the pulley and keyway here...

Again, the 'play' I speak of is without the crank pulley bolt on, or the timing belt holding it in place..

Hopefully you guys can give me some insight as to whether it is too worn, or if it is still useable.

I measured the amount of space in the keyway, I can fit a .2 mm thickness guage in it, no larger... Is that acceptable?

Pics of the inside of the crank pulley...

Thanks in advance...

- Kev

 

[Figit090]

is it hard to hit that torque with just arm muscle? i cant imagine how you'd do it, but i know its close to impossible to LOOSEN the bolt...

i need to check this because i hear funny noises from my engine area... i feared rod knock but sometimes my engine runs smooth as butter....literally. it revs really smooth...but other times it feels a bit rough and I'm worried maybe my pulley is loose. maybe my timing is off...i forgot to check that.

 

[6o4turbo]

Anyone have any input? I need to get this thing back together or start sourcing a new crank out...

 

[bigaaron]

I would order new keys from Toyota, get another pulley and timing belt drive gear. Torque it to specs and you should be ok. I think you caught it in time.

 

[Halsupramk3]

there can not be any movement of the pulley when on the crank even before the bolt is tightened down. no slack at all. the bolt will not keep it in place if the key way is moving. also there is rubber in the pulley which is why it is a harmonic dampener. the rubber can break and the outer pulley can move around the inner pulley thus throwing off the tiiming mark.

that amount of gap at the key will allow the pulley to move around and the gap will get bigger. how long this takes will depend some on how tight the bolt is but it will get looser and move and tear up the crank even more.

i had a bolt come out the the snout of the crank had to be rebuilt. the tip end of the snout can even get beat down so the balancer wobles front to back.

get another crank and install it in the engine. i had to do this as my bolt got loose. your shop will need to know what size bearings you have installed and then with the old crank and new one he can determine how much to polish off the new crank to match the bearings to bring it into your desired spec.

its a matter of time when it gets bad. you may be able to have this keyway rebuilt and the snout put back to spec. the pulley should have some resistence when installed onto the crank. may as well have the crank balanced while they have it and have added metal to it.

 

[Figit090]

there can not be any movement of the pulley when on the crank even before the bolt is tightened down. no slack at all. the bolt will not keep it in place if the key way is moving. also there is rubber in the pulley which is why it is a harmonic dampener. the rubber can break and the outer pulley can move around the inner pulley thus throwing off the tiiming mark.

if that happens, can is cause roughness and/or a thumping sound on startup? say....5 thumps and then just normal engine sounds?

 

[Poodles]

I'll agree with aaron here, doesn't look too bad, looks more like the key is worn...

 

[6o4turbo]

I would order new keys from Toyota, get another pulley and timing belt drive gear. Torque it to specs and you should be ok. I think you caught it in time.

I think I'm going to go this route...

Any other input?

 

[p5150]

If it is still loose after you get the replacement parts you could run a small bead of weld with a wire feed between the crank pulley and bolt once it is torqued. Dont weld the whole thing; just a small section on opposite sides of the bolt head/pulley to hold it in place and to stay somewhat balanced.

Or, you could torque it, untorque, and put some weld in the crank keyway with the pulley still installed. If you are fucked and have to pull the crankshaft out anyway then why would it matter? Plus it would just be one little section that you can drill/grind out. Dont weld it too much. Just make sure that the damper is set in the right spot before you do it too. Also, be sure to grind it down smooth before you reinstall and retorque the main crank bolt.

 

[90T04]

Mine was way worse than that. I put it back together and have been running it for 3 years with no problems. I got a new bolt, used blue permatex on it and cranked it down to 200+ ft/lbs.

 

[bmoss85]

Mine was way worse than that. I put it back together and have been running it for 3 years with no problems. I got a new bolt, used blue permatex on it and cranked it down to 200+ ft/lbs.

i fixed my the same way and have had no problems either

 

[6o4turbo]

Mine was way worse than that. I put it back together and have been running it for 3 years with no problems. I got a new bolt, used blue permatex on it and cranked it down to 200+ ft/lbs.

i fixed my the same way and have had no problems either

Are either of you guys putting down serious power by any chance?

 

[Halsupramk3]

if that happens, can is cause roughness and/or a thumping sound on startup? say....5 thumps and then just normal engine sounds?

yea at idle and just at low rpm i had a real low down thump. it was regular but disappeared as rpms went up. the balancer was wobbling around on the crank snout just lightly.

 

[90T04]

Are either of you guys putting down serious power by any chance?

Never had the car dyno'ed but I would hope 400-450HP at the wheels? Its nowhere near stock if thats what you mean.

 

[90T04]

Oh also, I made this tool to help achieve the torque needed on the bolt:

 

[6o4turbo]

Oh also, I made this tool to help achieve the torque needed on the bolt:

Want to send that to me? :icon_bigg

 

[bmoss85]

i used an impact wrench

 

[Figit090]

yea at idle and just at low rpm i had a real low down thump. it was regular but disappeared as rpms went up. the balancer was wobbling around on the crank snout just lightly.

i might be pm'ing you about this in a bit.

i have that i think...and i need to get a video of my crank pulley and watch it again because i dont think its running true....theres a bit of wobble...but its hard to explain.

 

[90T04]

Want to send that to me?

If you really need it, I can send it to you no problem. I can easily make another one.

 

[Poodles]

put it in third, yank the e-brake as hard as you can, and have someone literally stand ont he brakes and then torque...

make sure everything is out of the way and go from fender to fender as you'll take up the slack in the drivetrain and then you start actually torquing it down...

never had an issue doing it that way tightening/loosening (use different gears if you have to, you'll find one that works)