ForcedTorque's 3E5 has Arrived!!!!!
- Thread starter ForcedTorque
- Start date
toy fanatic78;1255270 said:
That is correct! Ricky used some sort of thread locker on them, and so far I only have 2 of them out. I have tried cheater bars, 2 different impacts, steel flat bars, and rope to hold the motor still. I just bought my 3rd 12 point socket for this project alone. Yes, that's more sockets than I have bolts removed!
I finally got a chance to get back under the car tonight. Here's the score as it stands now.
2 - Bolts already out
2 - weeks have almost gone by
2 - more bolts out tonight with a craftsman 12 point socket
2 - bolts to go
Those last two bolts are going to be a bitch!!!!!!!!!!! They are too rounded off for the new socket to do any good. I bought a new air chisel today, and tried the trick that guy at sears swore by. I was able to cut a groove in the worst bolt, but it still would not turn the bolt.
I talked to Jay yesterday, and he reminded me that he was the one who put Blue Locktite on the bolts, and handed them to Ricky under the car. I do remember that happening now. But, what is coming out with the bolts is white or very light blue.
So does anybody have any other tips on how to get these bolts out????? I tried to get a pipe wrench on them tonight. With them down in a recessed part of the flywheel, they would grab, but quickly twist off.
2 - Bolts already out
2 - weeks have almost gone by
2 - more bolts out tonight with a craftsman 12 point socket
2 - bolts to go
Those last two bolts are going to be a bitch!!!!!!!!!!! They are too rounded off for the new socket to do any good. I bought a new air chisel today, and tried the trick that guy at sears swore by. I was able to cut a groove in the worst bolt, but it still would not turn the bolt.
I talked to Jay yesterday, and he reminded me that he was the one who put Blue Locktite on the bolts, and handed them to Ricky under the car. I do remember that happening now. But, what is coming out with the bolts is white or very light blue.
So does anybody have any other tips on how to get these bolts out????? I tried to get a pipe wrench on them tonight. With them down in a recessed part of the flywheel, they would grab, but quickly twist off.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
As a last resort, grind off the heads, remove flywheel. Hopefully then you can get the pipe wrench on what's left of the bolt.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
No doubt.
I would soak it with pb for a day or two. Heat it so the pb burns off so the wrench won't slip. Use a newish, sharp, tiny pipe wrench and maybe a tap on that with a hammer once you know it's grabbing.
I would soak it with pb for a day or two. Heat it so the pb burns off so the wrench won't slip. Use a newish, sharp, tiny pipe wrench and maybe a tap on that with a hammer once you know it's grabbing.
Dave, this has actually been my thinking, as well as heating. But, after I couldn't get anything out of the chisel, I tried to get it to bend up the flared part of the bolt, and it wouldn't bend a bit. I was gonna try another blade the next time I can work on it. I am doing inventory tomorrow night, and thru the weekend until it is through. Hopefully I get back at it Saturday afternoon.
What will he harder, the ARP's or the flywheel itself? I don't have to have this one after it comes off.
What will he harder, the ARP's or the flywheel itself? I don't have to have this one after it comes off.
buckshotglass
I love all your sounds.
You need a 4" grinder or smaller. A cut off wheel would work. I think the bolt will be harder than the flywheel, but it will grind quickly.
Soak it like Dave said and find a screw extractor socket, craftsman has nice sets that may go that big. They have reverse screw threads insine and grip into what's left of the head. I use one for rotted out/rusted out o2 sensor nuts.
Well I'm coming up on a month since my clutch swap, and I still can't get those last two bolts out of the flywheel. Can anyone local do any welding, and have access to a portable welder? I want to weld something onto the bolts similar to an allen wrench. Then I can get a breaker bar on it.
I have a health update while I am here. I have just completed 3 weeks of therapy for my neck/shoulders. On my second visit, I already knew that the shoulder problems were a symptom of the cervical problems that I had. I took a total of 3 of my muscle relaxers over my 3 weeks of therapy. I now feel much better every day without medicine than I did before with high doses of Zanaflex. I spent a couple hours under the car tonight, and my only pain was muscle pain from all of the attempting to get those bolts out, and a very slight pain in my neck. The therapist has taught me some neck stretches that take the pain away fairly quickly. So, I found a way out of the pain, and the medicine, without using surgery. That makes me very happy.
I have a health update while I am here. I have just completed 3 weeks of therapy for my neck/shoulders. On my second visit, I already knew that the shoulder problems were a symptom of the cervical problems that I had. I took a total of 3 of my muscle relaxers over my 3 weeks of therapy. I now feel much better every day without medicine than I did before with high doses of Zanaflex. I spent a couple hours under the car tonight, and my only pain was muscle pain from all of the attempting to get those bolts out, and a very slight pain in my neck. The therapist has taught me some neck stretches that take the pain away fairly quickly. So, I found a way out of the pain, and the medicine, without using surgery. That makes me very happy.
Sorry no portable welder here, and i dont think any of my friends do, BUT ill ask. Good to hear your feeling better and even moreso doing it without spending money on drug$.
As a side note do you have a stock afm you wanna sell, i want to test something out.
As a side note do you have a stock afm you wanna sell, i want to test something out.
I have now located a welder and a welding machine to get something welded to my bolts. I don't know a timing on when I can get either one, but hopefully it won't take too long.
It think I would have pulled the engine by now. Extracters won't work because you would have to drill holes in the ARP metal. I would try grinding 2 sides that you could grip with vice-grips. If I were to heat anything, I would heat the flywheel as heating the bolts will expand the bolts in the flywheel. If 2 sides don't work try grinding a hex pattern as best you can, then get a hand impact and socket, the kind you hit with a hammer, and hit it with the largest hammer you can handle under the car while twisting on the impact. If that fails, grind the heads off and try the vice-grips on the studs.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Since you're putting so much heat in that area, would it be a good idea to get a new rear main seal, you know, just in case it gets damaged, or melted? They are cheap and easy to replace.
pracefan;1270063 said:
This post follows my thinking a good bit! I haven't thought of the hand impact yet, but I do have one of those. Thanks for the suggestion.
gtsfirefighter;1270103 said:
This is also something I wondered if I should do. Now will be my only chance to be sure it is good, that's for sure.
gtsfirefighter
SM Expert on White trash
Dang it Jay! I was going to use DT's Lube comment in my sig too. I was just too lazy to add it when I first read it! You snooze you lose!:biglaugh:
suprahero;1270466 said:
I appreciate the offer Jay. But, if it is not new, I already have 1 or two around here. I will be using a new one while I have the chance. If it is new, i will take it. I'll look up the number on it in a bit.
Another chapter in the clutch swap. It's now about 6 weeks in.OMG!!!! On Friday, I finally got my boss to bring his welder, and my buddy to come over at lunch and weld some large nuts onto the bolts. This did not work either, as the welding machine was a wire feed, and didn't have the power to do anything with the ARP's. They stuck on, but just like a wrench, they came loose when I really torqued on them. The welder says he can probably get a better machine over here sometime this week, and shouldn't have any problem.
Since I found out this swap was not going to go as planned, I have decided to do several things while I can't work on the clutch. Just the other day, I found my exhaust leak. I thought the flex in my DP was torn, but it was fine. I found the leak was that the nuts on my elbow were getting quite loose. I have also replaced my metal vacuum pipes on both sides of the 3000 pipe with JDub Coated ones I bought recently. Today, I installed my new Prosport Digital Boost Gauge. In the bos from that, I also found a chromed J-Tube Block-Off plate that I bought at about the same time as I bought the gauge. I also hope to get my fog lights installed, and try to mount my exhaust up a little better while it is still up on the jacks. Hopefully later this week I can tell you all that I am back to work on the clutch job from hell.
Since I found out this swap was not going to go as planned, I have decided to do several things while I can't work on the clutch. Just the other day, I found my exhaust leak. I thought the flex in my DP was torn, but it was fine. I found the leak was that the nuts on my elbow were getting quite loose. I have also replaced my metal vacuum pipes on both sides of the 3000 pipe with JDub Coated ones I bought recently. Today, I installed my new Prosport Digital Boost Gauge. In the bos from that, I also found a chromed J-Tube Block-Off plate that I bought at about the same time as I bought the gauge. I also hope to get my fog lights installed, and try to mount my exhaust up a little better while it is still up on the jacks. Hopefully later this week I can tell you all that I am back to work on the clutch job from hell.