no i didn't i just did the TSRM specs but I was going to go more then 90 but it felt like I was going to take the top off the bolts so I stoped before it got to that point.
Flywheel bolts keep backing off...
- Thread starter Zazzn
- Start date
Just my 2 cents, but it sounds like the flywheel is not fully seating. A small burr, or debris on the seating surfaces could cause this, and also be hard to see. Never had the slightest problem with any of the 7m's I've done.
mirage83;1292326 said:
I have a set of new flexplate bolts from toyota, and I received the same thing. 5 brass colored bolts with a green coating, and one bolt that was black.
i had 5 silver 1 black when i got it form toyota.
No worried I called DM ordered some ARPS, and trying to get that blocking plate thing.
No worried I called DM ordered some ARPS, and trying to get that blocking plate thing.
Ok Some pics.
Now it looks like the crank took a little of a friction metal fuse form the Flywheel.
flywheel looks pretty nasty, do you think it will be ok to bolt back on or should I try to get it turned? I'm worried it may not sit flat on the mating surface, and I'm not sure how to clean up the crank?
I got ARP's in and the plate that stops them form moving.
I'm just unsure what I should do there are some pretty nasty pits, if I have it turned... Do I'm assuming I need to rebalance it as well?
If not maybe I can a place that turns break rotors to give her a spin to take out the pits, but how can i get the crank nice and flat again short of pulling it out.
Now it looks like the crank took a little of a friction metal fuse form the Flywheel.
flywheel looks pretty nasty, do you think it will be ok to bolt back on or should I try to get it turned? I'm worried it may not sit flat on the mating surface, and I'm not sure how to clean up the crank?
I got ARP's in and the plate that stops them form moving.
I'm just unsure what I should do there are some pretty nasty pits, if I have it turned... Do I'm assuming I need to rebalance it as well?
If not maybe I can a place that turns break rotors to give her a spin to take out the pits, but how can i get the crank nice and flat again short of pulling it out.
If you put the flywheel back on the crank in the same spot it came off, does it sit flat? If so that is probably your best bet, doesn't look too great!
How did you get that chip outa your pilot bearing. I would def. change that. And use a better driver to install it, distribute force on outside race.
A big flat file will level some of that damage. Check run out after install
with dial indicator. Perhaps it looks worse than it really is. :icon_bigg Muzy
A big flat file will level some of that damage. Check run out after install
with dial indicator. Perhaps it looks worse than it really is. :icon_bigg Muzy
holy fretting damage!
You are going to be hard pressed to get those parts to seat correctly for any length of time now. The fretting damage will prevent the solid engagement between the flywheel and crank surfaces, allowing movement when everything is bolted up (no matter the clamping force). If you install the bolts with the retaining plate, there is a good chance they will snap off one by one due to fatigue. To prevent this, you are going to have to machine both surfaces.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
You are going to be hard pressed to get those parts to seat correctly for any length of time now. The fretting damage will prevent the solid engagement between the flywheel and crank surfaces, allowing movement when everything is bolted up (no matter the clamping force). If you install the bolts with the retaining plate, there is a good chance they will snap off one by one due to fatigue. To prevent this, you are going to have to machine both surfaces.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
yep this explains why it kept backing off. i machined the fly wheel took off 750 thou not much i could do with the crank. i chizzled the high spots hoping the fused metal would come off 85% did but i tried a file and it want really doing shit because of lack of space i used some 100 grit to smoothen it out. going to try one last time if not i guess its time for a lightened flywheel and to pull the crank /engine fix all them oil leaks anyways. gulp... not lookin g forward to this
yeah I know IJ, but honestly, I don't feel like lifting the engine just yet.
I'm giving this a go. I canked her to 90 FTLB, (or what ever the gun did) haha
red permtex. We'll see if she goes, cus honestly, I really REALLY am getting tired of fixing the mk3 since it's a 6HR drive just to get home to work on it for the weekend. I really need 1 week of me and her time to work out everything that needs fixing on her.. nothing big just many little things.
Since i don't have a runout gauge, I just used the hand to feel the smoothness. I have a feeling it will vibrate loose again but we'll see maybe my chizzling, careful sanding, and the machine work on the flywheel will give me a good enough seating which isn't fully true, but good enough.
Why does the stupid shit always become such a large problem?
I'm giving this a go. I canked her to 90 FTLB, (or what ever the gun did) haha
red permtex. We'll see if she goes, cus honestly, I really REALLY am getting tired of fixing the mk3 since it's a 6HR drive just to get home to work on it for the weekend. I really need 1 week of me and her time to work out everything that needs fixing on her.. nothing big just many little things.Since i don't have a runout gauge, I just used the hand to feel the smoothness. I have a feeling it will vibrate loose again but we'll see maybe my chizzling, careful sanding, and the machine work on the flywheel will give me a good enough seating which isn't fully true, but good enough.
Why does the stupid shit always become such a large problem?
Hey Zazzn, the ARP flywheel bolts are too long and they do interfere with the torque spec. A buddy of mine just went through this and found the bolts were actually hitting the last main bearing cap. Though he found his out while installing the Tilton triple before the engine went into the car...hth..
Don.
Don.
You are going to have another failure in the near future, and there is a good chance you are going to damage something else with the flywheel not sitting true to the crank. With the flywheel wobbling, you'll be putting some funky forces on the transmission input shaft as well as the #7 main bearing (if you haven't already). Like IJ said, have the crank machined.
Another less-safe last resort solution (which I do NOT recommend) is to install the engine without the transmission, let the engine run, and "machine" the face of the crankshaft. It is pretty unlikely that you'll get a flat surface this way though, but you won't have any wobbling. Would I do this? Absolutely not, i'm just mentioning this as a last resort.
Another less-safe last resort solution (which I do NOT recommend) is to install the engine without the transmission, let the engine run, and "machine" the face of the crankshaft. It is pretty unlikely that you'll get a flat surface this way though, but you won't have any wobbling. Would I do this? Absolutely not, i'm just mentioning this as a last resort.
Did you use the stock damper (pulley) on the front of the crankshaft, or possibly an aftermarket type? DO NOT USE AND UNDERDRIVE PULLEY WITHOUT A RUBBER TORSIONAL DAMPER AND SEISMIC MASS (the pulley itself with the stock part. Torsional vibrations set up in the crankshaft can and do destructive things. Please PM me about this.
BernieK
BernieK