Oh, come on guys, that's not hard - you put the flywheel on, start it, then pull it back off again! 
Flywheel bolts keep backing off...
- Thread starter Zazzn
- Start date
Zazzn;1304472 said:yeah I know IJ, but honestly, I don't feel like lifting the engine just yet.
I'm giving this a go. I canked her to 90 FTLB, (or what ever the gun did) haha
Since i don't have a runout gauge, I just used the hand to feel the smoothness. I have a feeling it will vibrate loose again but we'll see maybe my chizzling, careful sanding, and the machine work on the flywheel will give me a good enough seating which isn't fully true, but good enough.
Why does the stupid shit always become such a large problem?
Stupid shit happens from doing things half assed................
GrimJack;1304977 said:Oh, come on guys, that's not hard - you put the flywheel on, start it, then pull it back off again!
Well it's NOT like his bolts are doing anything
(start it and let in run 5 minutes and the flywheel should fall off on it's own)
that's mean.....but funny
Call up time-sert and see what they say, bet they'll work fine in your application (their sparkplug repair is fantastic, and they use em on top fuel dragsters so I'd think they'd work fine, but they'll tell you if they'd take the forces).
But even then, you have to take care of that uneven surface...
Call up time-sert and see what they say, bet they'll work fine in your application (their sparkplug repair is fantastic, and they use em on top fuel dragsters so I'd think they'd work fine, but they'll tell you if they'd take the forces).
But even then, you have to take care of that uneven surface...
I agree with everyone, that yes it's not the best, but no, I don't beleve there is going to be a catastrophic, melt down. I machined the flywheel mating surface to give a good mating surface, the Crank it's self is fairly true (as good as it's going to get with out machine work. Since
#1 i was able to lightly chizzle off the fused metal since it didn't mate to the Crankshaft since it's much harder steel then the flywheel steel.
#2 There is no more high spots that i can feel.
#3 if it does manage to vibrate loose again, I'll know right away.
This is the 4 time it did it, but first 3 times I actually didn't take off the flywheel to inspect just replace the bolts. Now I know why I'll know if it happens again.
#1 i was able to lightly chizzle off the fused metal since it didn't mate to the Crankshaft since it's much harder steel then the flywheel steel.
#2 There is no more high spots that i can feel.
#3 if it does manage to vibrate loose again, I'll know right away.
This is the 4 time it did it, but first 3 times I actually didn't take off the flywheel to inspect just replace the bolts. Now I know why I'll know if it happens again.
IJ.;1304909 said:How do you start it with no flywheel?
wow.
I'll just stop visiting the site when hungover...
IJ.;1305287 said:Friends don't let friends drink and post
it sounded like such a good solution at the time...oh well, good thing I don't show up for work that way.
IJ.;1305292 said:Couldn't help but sit here and laugh/wonder when I read it
i guess I forgot about mentioning the pull-start mod.:sarcasm:
LoL everything is bolted up, didn't start it, don't think anyone really likes a 4" barely muffled 4" 2jz at 4:00 AM
Now, I need a favor form the community. Pray... PRAY for me I don't want to do this job it's Fing annoying... I know it so well, that it takes me about 3 HR to do the R&R lol.
Now, I need a favor form the community. Pray... PRAY for me I don't want to do this job it's Fing annoying... I know it so well, that it takes me about 3 HR to do the R&R lol.
I feel your pain. Ran into a similar situation with a Mk2 clutch that wouldn't disengage. Pulled the tranny off 4 times before I figured out what was causing it - a spring from the disc had snapped, the pieces fell out of the disc and jammed the whole thing together.Zazzn;1305302 said:LoL everything is bolted up, didn't start it, don't think anyone really likes a 4" barely muffled 4" 2jz at 4:00 AM
Now, I need a favor form the community. Pray... PRAY for me I don't want to do this job it's Fing annoying... I know it so well, that it takes me about 3 HR to do the R&R lol.
By the end of it, I could R&R the tranny on the Mk2 in record time.
Tranny R&R is a piece of cake with a tranny jack
Took longer to get the car jacked up high enough and on the jackstands than it did to pull the tranny, replace clutch, and put the tranny back on...
Took longer to get the car jacked up high enough and on the jackstands than it did to pull the tranny, replace clutch, and put the tranny back on...
haha I don't even include the 2 upper bolts in the bell housing anymore, because I know i'll be in there replacing the clutch (if the straps explode again) the bell housing if the straps blow up the bell housing, the clutch disc after the fermaic welds to the PP, OR if the fly wheel bolts back out.
As for the ARP bolts. I used the 4AG-GE bolts and they worked and i spun the engine around a few times and nothing is touching so I think they are all good.
As for the ARP bolts. I used the 4AG-GE bolts and they worked and i spun the engine around a few times and nothing is touching so I think they are all good.
If im not mistaken the upper 2 bolts bear a lot of the load out of all of them and leaving those out is a bad idea.
