Flywheel bolts keep backing off...
- Thread starter Zazzn
- Start date
thanks raven, i'm using OEM...2 sets now... I've been torquing to factory specs then i tried a little more but it felt like the bolts where stretching so I didn't go anymore...
I don't have time to wait for the plate... since when did that plate come on the flywheels? it wasn't on my 1jz?
how does it help hold the bolts in place please explain?
I don't have time to wait for the plate... since when did that plate come on the flywheels? it wasn't on my 1jz?
how does it help hold the bolts in place please explain?
Zazzn;1292249 said:
The plate is aftermarket, once you torque the bolts, you bend the tabs against the bolt, making it physically impossible to turn. Its a locking plate.
Also, do you run solid motor mounts? Solid trans mount? I agree, something seems fishy for this to happen over and over..
I have a flywheel bolt related question which fits in here without a hijack. Just bought replacement bolts for mine ('88 7M auto) to bolt it to the tc. They're all the same size and appear to be the exact same thread pattern, but 1 is sold seperately from the other five and appears to be oxide coated or something, in any case it's black rather than standard zinc or whatever.
Any reason for this, and does that one bolt fit in a particular place on the flywheel? Couldn't find any notes on it in the TSRM, but I might have missed it. Thanks...
Any reason for this, and does that one bolt fit in a particular place on the flywheel? Couldn't find any notes on it in the TSRM, but I might have missed it. Thanks...
Each time those bolts back out i would imagine the flywheel wobbling is just making the matters worse, it is probably opening up the threads in your crank as the bolts are jerked back anf forth in there. I have a crank that had the crank pulley bolt come loose and the pulley bolt when screwed in halfway can be wiggled back and forth a huge amount just because it was wobbled on there so much it ruined the hole/threads. You need to make sure the threads are still tight because if they are not no amount of loctite is going to hold them in.
Cy i was thinking the same thing, I park the car as soon as I notice it's loose
I'm using stock 87 mounts... Infact on my 1jz on the first set of bolts, i had no problems and they where solid mounts!
I'm using stock 87 mounts... Infact on my 1jz on the first set of bolts, i had no problems and they where solid mounts!
has to be the threads.
i mean were talking about tightening down a flywheel here. from what i have seen Zazzn has had plenty of fast cars so i would say the problem can't be the way they are being torqued or the amount of locktite being used. this doesn't just happen.
i mean were talking about tightening down a flywheel here. from what i have seen Zazzn has had plenty of fast cars so i would say the problem can't be the way they are being torqued or the amount of locktite being used. this doesn't just happen.
Im not sure how it works with the forged crank, can you re-tap the crank? If you can you can just have the old threads drilled out and go for a slightly bigger hole/threads and use oversize bolts. Of course that required pulling the engine apart. Maybe you can get some inserts such as timeserts and thread them into the current holes with some sort of permanent high bonding substance (dont know if that exists?) and then use a smaller bolt to screw into the insert. Of course this is all just patching the real problem which would require a new crankshaft (assuming it really is the bolt holes that are messed up).
The only thing that really has me worried is the last set of bolts that titian sent where not what I got when I had the 1jz they where the Auto flexplate style bolts but I figured what the hell they must work..
I'm going to give Arp's a try and I'm going to order the plate form drift motion that was mentioned above. Whatever the hell it is I'm SICK and TIRED of going in there... pulling the engine is not an option this year... I'll drive the car like Fred Flintstone if I have to... I'm tired of working on that bloody car.
I'm going to give Arp's a try and I'm going to order the plate form drift motion that was mentioned above. Whatever the hell it is I'm SICK and TIRED of going in there... pulling the engine is not an option this year... I'll drive the car like Fred Flintstone if I have to... I'm tired of working on that bloody car.
lol......
ARPs 12pt bolts + lock plate + loctite Primer/T62 + 70 ft-lbs Torque.
Make sure to clean the threads with Break cleaner and let the Loctite cured for a few hrs or more. Verify crank shaft (shank) is snug tight to the fly wheel.
ARPs 12pt bolts + lock plate + loctite Primer/T62 + 70 ft-lbs Torque.
Make sure to clean the threads with Break cleaner and let the Loctite cured for a few hrs or more. Verify crank shaft (shank) is snug tight to the fly wheel.
Zazzn,
I'm still using stock flywheel bolts, and I have been through several motors, clutches and trannys. I just use Red permatex and torque down to 60 ftlbs and never have a problem. I think that it's the 35 ftlbs and all your HP that is making this happen and the bolts backing out. Just have to think how much more power are making than stock and then compare that with the stock torque rating on things like flywheel bolts and head bolts. I've reused my stock flywheel bolts probably 6 times in the last 2 years and at least 50 drag passes and they have never backed out.
I'm still using stock flywheel bolts, and I have been through several motors, clutches and trannys. I just use Red permatex and torque down to 60 ftlbs and never have a problem. I think that it's the 35 ftlbs and all your HP that is making this happen and the bolts backing out. Just have to think how much more power are making than stock and then compare that with the stock torque rating on things like flywheel bolts and head bolts. I've reused my stock flywheel bolts probably 6 times in the last 2 years and at least 50 drag passes and they have never backed out.
forntierguy, agreed, I've reused bolts on my 7m, 1jz with out problems.. Never EVER EVER had this problem before!
I was scared to torque the flywheel bolts that I got form toyota down because they are auto flexplate bolts and not the correct flywheel bolts that came with my 1jz.
I'm tired of going under, so I'm getting some ARP's that plate, and i've been using red permatex stuff as usual... I'm going to give it the 75ft lb like the 7m and ignore the 35ftlb and 90 degree crap the tsrm is saying. If it' backs out again someone come pick up my car and please tow it into the lake.
I was scared to torque the flywheel bolts that I got form toyota down because they are auto flexplate bolts and not the correct flywheel bolts that came with my 1jz.
I'm tired of going under, so I'm getting some ARP's that plate, and i've been using red permatex stuff as usual... I'm going to give it the 75ft lb like the 7m and ignore the 35ftlb and 90 degree crap the tsrm is saying. If it' backs out again someone come pick up my car and please tow it into the lake.
eric if you need help let me know. Not with the towing of course, a beauty like that should be driving lol.
Zazzn;1294083 said:
For what its worth, the torque angle method of tightening bolts generally yields a more precise bolt preload than the use of a torque wrench by itself, it isn't just some BS toyota put in the repair manual for kicks.
oh whats up tom, yeah man could use the help!!
adam, i agree with you but it's failed so many times it's pissing me off the 35/90 has caused me to wonder because every time I was doing that on the bolts it felt like I was going to break them right off in the crank.
adam, i agree with you but it's failed so many times it's pissing me off the 35/90 has caused me to wonder because every time I was doing that on the bolts it felt like I was going to break them right off in the crank.
