slidebabyslide;910102 said:
I should have the car back later this week or early next week. This shop moves fast. This is only the bay and inside stuff i.e. jams, hatch etc. Not sure how long it will take to finish it once I bring it back.
Finally Decided on Color - *PICS FROM PAINT BOOTH ADDED 02/08*
- Thread starter csnow
- Start date
I should have the car back later this week or early next week. This shop moves fast. This is only the bay and inside stuff i.e. jams, hatch etc. Not sure how long it will take to finish it once I bring it back.
looks very similar to the color i painted my engine bay and am painting the rest of my car. Graphite Grey Pearl is the name and 1C6 is the paint code. check out my build thread i've got pics of the painted engine bay, if you wanna get a sneak peak of what your will look like.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60927
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=60927
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Without a doubt, too many opinions, that's why you need to go with what turns you on!csnow;909620 said:
Well the bay is done. There is a little touch-up needed on the inside of the shock tower where some white is showing. The lighting is bad and the pictures don't do the color justice. The shock towers will have pretty coilovers in there real soon. I will also paint around the steering column black.
What she looked like when I started
What she looked like when I started
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looks even better in person
from the pics.. 99% sure they took the rings off.. you're good.. you talking about the inside part of the shock hole for the white? We'll get the is350 touchup paint for that, no worries
from the pics.. 99% sure they took the rings off.. you're good.. you talking about the inside part of the shock hole for the white? We'll get the is350 touchup paint for that, no worries
I like it, it looks similar to the factory dark gray color....forget what it's officially called, don't see too many of them.
lemme tell you what i think about that color.
yes.
ooh yes.
that's cus i've planned to paint my car that color aswell. thats just right on.
yes.
ooh yes.
that's cus i've planned to paint my car that color aswell. thats just right on.
<<<member of the "I Hate Csnow Coalition" lol
j/k man. That looks great. I thought about getting my car painted that color, but after I read your thread about the prices, I'm keeping that batch white.lol
j/k man. That looks great. I thought about getting my car painted that color, but after I read your thread about the prices, I'm keeping that batch white.lol
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Looks nice.
Your painter was/is not very detail oriented. (Just to let you know.)
He missed under the battery tray, and there is no "easy touch up" with a two stage metallic. (He will have to completely do the engine bay again to get good adheasion with the clear coat, so your done now, as it is. With color missing in areas.) If this color is a pearl/3 stage, it's even less possible to do anything easy where the color is involved. It looks like a base/clear however, but I have not taken the time to look it up, and will not.
I would ask for a discount.
I'm not trying to be an ass either. I do this for a living.
My problem is I don't call average work awesome, and it pisses people off. (Actually, with the lack of full hiding in places, it's not even average...)
Anyone can paint what's in front of them.
A true master paints everything, not just what you see at first glance. (They know us Assholes will be looking in the hard to reach areas.... LOL)
It's nice. It's a million times nicer than it was. But I would not pay 4000.00 for that. Sorry. (Ask your painter if he used to work at Maaco? Or perhaps he should?)
What he did was use a large production HVLP gun when he should have cut in with a detail, or even an airbrush all the hard to reach areas FIRST. Applying a mica metallic gray like this is not rocket science.
Here is how it should have gone.
1) Prep the engine bay, remove all bolted on items, and drop the stuts down, perhaps even drop the engine cradle, and remove the steering etc.
2) Skuff up the entire engine bay, and make sure there is no oil, dirt or other debris left in any of the corners, or tight spots.
3) Use a etching build primer/sealer that is tinted dark gray to help hide the white. (He should use this on the exterior of the car as well.)
4) Inside the flash time on the primer, apply the color untill he achieves full hiding. Start by cutting in around the tight areas with a small detail gun, or air brush, then move up to a larger production size HVLP gun for the final coats of color.
5) I would start cutting in again with a small detail gun for the clear coat. (Again, I want a nice smooth, glossy clear over everything, even under the battery tray for example.) I would then move up to the larger HVLP, and apply 4 or 5 full coats of clear. (Thicker is good under the hood where your likely to scratch it, and it might just be able to buff out any small scratches with this extra clear on there.) 3 coats is normal. More than 5, and your getting too thick with the paint possibly unless your going to color sand and buff the engine bay... Not likely.
That my friend, is the start of a 4000.00 paint job in my opinion. (And I've been involved in painting vehicles since 1985, so I've seen a few jobs done right, and wrong, and everywhere inbetween.
Good luck, but I'd ask for a discount, at least on the engine bay.
If he says "This is not a show car" you can respond with "If I wanted just an OK job, I'd have gone to Maaco and spent 1/2 of what your charging me.. " Besides.. Who is going to tell everyone how your work either sucks, or shines?
If he is not embarassed, and offers to fix the problem, I'd find another painter. Just because this shop does the work for the Lexus deal does not mean shit. Not one little log of it. Production shops for dealerships are often some of the worst detail oriented shops in the area. large production shops tend to rotate painters and tech's through them like a meat grinder. Ask your painter how long he's worked at this shop. Or where he's worked before, and then ask them about him. If somone has been in either location for 5 years or more, they likely are a good painter, or the shop had low standards... LOL
Again, sorry for being so blunt, but I'm very picky about paint, and have spent many years of my life learning everything I can about it, and how to determine what is nice/good, awesome and show quality. There is a term called "industry standard" and it's pretty much everything the shop can get away with, without having to re-work the job. (Spray and pray they call it.) Yours is an industry standard paint job. Everyone on here says "ooh, ahh.. nice!" but they either don't know shit, or they are just being polite... (more of the later than the former I'd guess. LOL)
One more thing. Asking the painter to solve this problem now on your engine bay, or give you a discount will make him much more likely to get the exterior paint right, so it's in your intrest to do this NOW. Don't wait untill your job is done, and then find errors with the work when you put the car back together, or are waxing it 6 months from now.
Your painter was/is not very detail oriented. (Just to let you know.)
He missed under the battery tray, and there is no "easy touch up" with a two stage metallic. (He will have to completely do the engine bay again to get good adheasion with the clear coat, so your done now, as it is. With color missing in areas.) If this color is a pearl/3 stage, it's even less possible to do anything easy where the color is involved. It looks like a base/clear however, but I have not taken the time to look it up, and will not.
I would ask for a discount.
I'm not trying to be an ass either. I do this for a living.
My problem is I don't call average work awesome, and it pisses people off. (Actually, with the lack of full hiding in places, it's not even average...)
Anyone can paint what's in front of them.
A true master paints everything, not just what you see at first glance. (They know us Assholes will be looking in the hard to reach areas.... LOL)
It's nice. It's a million times nicer than it was. But I would not pay 4000.00 for that. Sorry. (Ask your painter if he used to work at Maaco? Or perhaps he should?)
What he did was use a large production HVLP gun when he should have cut in with a detail, or even an airbrush all the hard to reach areas FIRST. Applying a mica metallic gray like this is not rocket science.
Here is how it should have gone.
1) Prep the engine bay, remove all bolted on items, and drop the stuts down, perhaps even drop the engine cradle, and remove the steering etc.
2) Skuff up the entire engine bay, and make sure there is no oil, dirt or other debris left in any of the corners, or tight spots.
3) Use a etching build primer/sealer that is tinted dark gray to help hide the white. (He should use this on the exterior of the car as well.)
4) Inside the flash time on the primer, apply the color untill he achieves full hiding. Start by cutting in around the tight areas with a small detail gun, or air brush, then move up to a larger production size HVLP gun for the final coats of color.
5) I would start cutting in again with a small detail gun for the clear coat. (Again, I want a nice smooth, glossy clear over everything, even under the battery tray for example.) I would then move up to the larger HVLP, and apply 4 or 5 full coats of clear. (Thicker is good under the hood where your likely to scratch it, and it might just be able to buff out any small scratches with this extra clear on there.) 3 coats is normal. More than 5, and your getting too thick with the paint possibly unless your going to color sand and buff the engine bay... Not likely.
That my friend, is the start of a 4000.00 paint job in my opinion. (And I've been involved in painting vehicles since 1985, so I've seen a few jobs done right, and wrong, and everywhere inbetween.
Good luck, but I'd ask for a discount, at least on the engine bay.
If he says "This is not a show car" you can respond with "If I wanted just an OK job, I'd have gone to Maaco and spent 1/2 of what your charging me.. " Besides.. Who is going to tell everyone how your work either sucks, or shines?
If he is not embarassed, and offers to fix the problem, I'd find another painter. Just because this shop does the work for the Lexus deal does not mean shit. Not one little log of it.
Production shops for dealerships are often some of the worst detail oriented shops in the area. large production shops tend to rotate painters and tech's through them like a meat grinder. Ask your painter how long he's worked at this shop. Or where he's worked before, and then ask them about him. If somone has been in either location for 5 years or more, they likely are a good painter, or the shop had low standards... LOLAgain, sorry for being so blunt, but I'm very picky about paint, and have spent many years of my life learning everything I can about it, and how to determine what is nice/good, awesome and show quality. There is a term called "industry standard" and it's pretty much everything the shop can get away with, without having to re-work the job. (Spray and pray they call it.) Yours is an industry standard paint job. Everyone on here says "ooh, ahh.. nice!" but they either don't know shit, or they are just being polite...
(more of the later than the former I'd guess. LOL)One more thing. Asking the painter to solve this problem now on your engine bay, or give you a discount will make him much more likely to get the exterior paint right, so it's in your intrest to do this NOW. Don't wait untill your job is done, and then find errors with the work when you put the car back together, or are waxing it 6 months from now.