FFIM or MAFT Pro?

Orion ZyGarian

Orion ZyGarian

Jeff Lange wannabe
Apr 2, 2005
1,490
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Sarasota, FLorida
www.suprastore.com
Let me start out by saying an AEM UEGO is on the way and I ALREADY HAVE THE ORIGINAL MAF-T and love it. Basically over summer I'll only have enough for one. I've been leaning much more towards FFIM/FMIC combo because I can worry so much less about all the little places that can leak, spool quicker, more power, etc. etc. Only recently did I get the idea to go MAFT-Pro instead, but looking at my budget, I highly doubt I could get both done.

Note that this also will be done to make the car a DD. As such, the MAFT-Pro is smarter in that theres less of a huge change and places for stuff to go wrong due to install. Also, I would recirculate my BOV (currently venting) if I were to go FFIM, which would be additional plumbing, though I bet I could just dump it in a reservoir of sorts instead of going back into the intake manifold. I dont know, I cant brain right now because its 6 am and I need to get sleep. I just wanted to make this thread before I fall asleep. Either way, I'm going to get rid of the POS HKS filter because its a piece of crap...pieces falling apart as I washed it...and if I stay regular MAF-T I'm going to extend the harness and put the box inside. BTW can I get a deal on a MAFT-Pro for having an original MAF-T? lolz.

Whats neat is that I have some hardcore hardpipes that are flexible so chances are I wouldnt need any additional piping. Here's a pic of my engine bay so you have an idea of this miracle mysterious hardpiping that I have.

p998180_1.jpg

p998180_2.jpg

p998180_3.jpg


Discuss.
 
S

selfinfliction

New Member
Dec 11, 2007
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there's 500hp on stock intake manifold and tb, but i went with an ffim by sethron just because it cuts down the piping and gives me more options down the road
 
Rennat

Rennat

5psi...? haha
Dec 6, 2005
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Tracy, CA
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i think if its a daily driver, then i would go for the FFIM now, and the maft stuff when you have some time to get it all installed and NOT rush the job. wiring takes time.

but i would go FFIM first. and THEN maft.
 
H

HommerSimpson

New Member
Dec 31, 2007
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New Smyrna Beach Florida
FFIM = bolt on and drive... maft pro = wire up.. and play with till its right...
for DD intake would be wiser and quicker to be back on road... maft pro you can play with while a DD...
I want a FFIM but ofcourse i want something diferant.. so im going to go with a TPI off a chevy and make plates for the sides and have it welded from underneath as far as the inlet... :}
 
Justin727

Justin727

T-virus infected
Mar 31, 2005
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GPT/BILOXI, Ms.
www.crescentcitysupras.com
honestly I think theres a little less work with the maft pro as to the FFIM

Although the FFIM is a bolt on affair think about rerouting the IC piping and fabbin up the pipes?? most people don't have the time nor access to the equipment to do it.


but if you're good at fabin or have the tools and skills by all means do FFIM 1st
 
sneakypete

sneakypete

Regular Member
Jul 18, 2007
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Central NJ
maft pro does not take too much time if you know what your doing. you dont have to master the settings to drive your car... as long as you have the base settings dialed in, youll be fine. if you plan on getting the full kit with Wideband tracking, speed density and boost control, then maftpro is a much better choice and youll not only see results but youve removed major restrictions in the intake system.
FFIM requires custom piping (or hoses Orion) and relocation of alt. and ac (depending on whose manifold you buy). not only that, if your not pushing serious power yet, you dont really "need" a FFIM... although they are very nice.
just my .02
-pete
 
starscream5000

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
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Hot and Humid, KY
HommerSimpson;998660 said:
FFIM = bolt on and drive... maft pro = wire up.. and play with till its right...
for DD intake would be wiser and quicker to be back on road... maft pro you can play with while a DD...
I want a FFIM but ofcourse i want something diferant.. so im going to go with a TPI off a chevy and make plates for the sides and have it welded from underneath as far as the inlet... :}
Click to expand...

Where are you putting the TPI at?
 
Orion ZyGarian

Orion ZyGarian

Jeff Lange wannabe
Apr 2, 2005
1,490
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Sarasota, FLorida
www.suprastore.com
First off let me say that I'll be making more than enough power...I'm pretty sure I'm at the point where the stock fuel system is supposed to not be usable. Before I took the EBC off, it was a consistent 18 psi through a T4..I've never heard it ping and its so rich that I know it hasnt..

Anyways I'll be dialing the boost back to around 8-10, maybe a bit more. I'll be moving back up from my pathetic Miata to 3x the power roughly; I have no intention of putting any more mods till AFTER college, when I'll both have the money for it and know how to do everything the best way I can, etc. (mechanical engineering, theres a graduate level ICE class, which is the REASON I'm in college)

A/C is necessary and I planned on moving the battery regardless. I just need more cable, plus I have an emergency battery disconnect with thick cable that I plan on using as well for safety and just because.

My posts are always long..sorry guys.

The main emphasis I'm focused on is DD here. The Supra is the only car I havent had to have towed (Miata 3x) and only left me on the side of the road when the throttle set screw made it idle at 3k...turn the screw and idle is back to normal.

I plan on getting a catch can, intake filter (again, I have HKS right now, wtf) from Driftmotion as well as recharging the A/C (where are the recharge/pressure ports on MkIIIs? A quick inspection didnt lead me anywhere), etc.

I had planned on FFIM to get rid of the piping and the annoying PCV hoses on the top of the cam covers instead of replacing them with more crappy ones. However like I said, I had the idea that perhaps I should go MAFT-Pro for TUNING reasons more than power. Mostly so that I dont use up as much gas, not so much engine safety as I know its always ridiculously pig rich anyways.

Also, I already have the piping for a new intercooler as you can see, which is why I included pics. I'm pretty sure I'd be able to use that still, as its quite thick. You can see how it swallows my compressor outlet.

AT ANY RATE: I have a custom DP that you cant see there, but I was wondering if I could put the WBO2 a few inches behind the turbo, where I have the O2 port already which is in the elbow portion. I plan on running it with narrowband simulation into the ECU, but I'm not sure if thats too close for a wideband sensor. If it is, then I'm going to have to find a bung to weld in to my DP.
 
starscream5000

starscream5000

Senior VIP Member
Aug 23, 2006
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Hot and Humid, KY
Orion ZyGarian;999321 said:
AT ANY RATE: I have a custom DP that you cant see there, but I was wondering if I could put the WBO2 a few inches behind the turbo, where I have the O2 port already which is in the elbow portion. I plan on running it with narrowband simulation into the ECU, but I'm not sure if thats too close for a wideband sensor. If it is, then I'm going to have to find a bung to weld in to my DP.
Click to expand...

Most wideband manufacture's specifically call for the bung for the sensor to be welded xx"'s away from the turbo, this usually being around 2 feet away. Keeping the wideband sensor that close to the turbo will most likely shorten it's life span.
 
sethron71

sethron71

Authorized Vendor
Jul 19, 2005
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www.SethIngham.com
Well I would actually say save up and do both. Wait the little bit longer and get them both. Even though I build FFIM's I am seeing the benefits in the MAFT-Pro system so I do not have a biased opinion here. You are going to spend about the same either way, a bit more on the FFIM w/ hard pipes and FMIC as well it will be a bit more work but you can't been the response. I personally would wait till you were upgrading the entire fuel system to go with the MAFT-Pro but thats just me!

PM for more info!

Thanks,
Seth
 
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