Is there any such thing as a fan delete for our cars? My friend just got one for his M3. It's suppose to add about 5hp, but the main reason is I want that big thing out of the way. I know I've seen MK3's without the fan. The kits usually come with a new thermostat and sometimes pulley.
Fan Delete
- Thread starter Apostle
- Start date
Mount some e-fans if you want to get away from the stock clutch fan. You can't just delete the fan though. You need something to move air through the radiator.
If you never need to drive in hot weather - or drive up a hill - or get stuck in traffic - or run your AC - then you can go electric. You don't even want to know what will happen if you are driving in hot weather with your AC on up a hill while stuck in traffic.
There are FAR better ways to get that 5hp though than replacing a fan that will likely save your engine.
There are FAR better ways to get that 5hp though than replacing a fan that will likely save your engine.
KeithH;1181624 said:
thats not entirely true... im running electric fans with no problems. the stock mech fan flowed a lot more, but ive got a big alum radiator and two thermostat control efans. never overheats or comes close
KeithH;1181624 said:
Not true.. ive ran twin EF in the hot summer driving daily to and from work, even pushing the car at 24 psi and never a problem..
KeithH;1181624 said:
That is very true.
There are twin elecrtic fan kits out there for around $225. They come with two 12in electric fans and a nice shroud. Ive heard that they work like a champ. I bought a low amp 16in fan and made my own mount out of some alum C-channel. It flows plenty up hill or down, traffic or not. If your windows work and you have A/C, take it out and drive faster with the windows down.:icon_razz. The stock pullie will work just fine with the right size bolts without the fan on it. Might need a 1 or 2mm shim, maybe.
just paint your stock fan clear!:sarcasm:
there is actually a lot of debate over whether or not going e-fan actually gives you any horsepower anyway.
if you have the money, get a nice one, or two.. but dont cheap out on going electric because as others have said youll fry stuff quick if you arent moving enough air.
there is actually a lot of debate over whether or not going e-fan actually gives you any horsepower anyway.
if you have the money, get a nice one, or two.. but dont cheap out on going electric because as others have said youll fry stuff quick if you arent moving enough air.
i believe Keith was talking about just taking the fan out and NOT putin an electric fan in. thats what i got from it anyway
I'm with Keith on this one, folks. I've seen a lot of problems with e-fans. I've seen very few with stock belt driven fans. I know which one is staying on MY car.
I saw a sale thread some where that was selling a Tacoma fan clutch as a replacement for the one on a 7M is there any info on that is it true ? Are there better options for swapping it for some thing newer and stronger? It would seem to make sense that one from a tundra would be plenty powerful to move lotsa air.
Pointless waste of money IMHO...
There is no such thing as free power. In the dyno tests I've seen, you'll get MAYBE 5HP out of it, and you have to remember two things:
- 5HP is within the deviation of the dyno
- that was with the e-fans OFF, on it's a different story
There is no such thing as free power. In the dyno tests I've seen, you'll get MAYBE 5HP out of it, and you have to remember two things:
- 5HP is within the deviation of the dyno
- that was with the e-fans OFF, on it's a different story
Ok i miss read the OP.
DO NOT TAKE THE CLUTCH FAN OFF, AND NOT REPLACE IT WITH GOOD EF... THATS POINTLESS.
And dont look at it as in hp gain... because thats bullshit. youl get an oh so 1-2 hp out of it lol wich is worthless.
DO NOT TAKE THE CLUTCH FAN OFF, AND NOT REPLACE IT WITH GOOD EF... THATS POINTLESS.
And dont look at it as in hp gain... because thats bullshit. youl get an oh so 1-2 hp out of it lol wich is worthless.
plus its like $200+ for a good set of twin fans.... you can spend about that or a little bit more for a better mod and get the same HP if not better
EDIT: i mean they also have it really figured out... the faster you go (rpm wise) the faster that thing spins and the more air you get. simple yet efficient.
EDIT: i mean they also have it really figured out... the faster you go (rpm wise) the faster that thing spins and the more air you get. simple yet efficient.
Matt - The turbo fan clutch is plenty...a Tundra clutch to pull more air is not a good idea and it just might be the same as the stock turbo clutch anyway. If you want to keep temps from spiking, the solution is to increase coolant capacity...i.e an bigger radiator.
The problem I see with the parts stores (AutoZone, etc) is they give you a NA clutch. It's made for the 7 blade NA fan...put a 10 blade turbo fan on it and it doesn't pull air like it should. The shroud needs to be in good shape too or you'll just pull air in from the side instead of through the radiator.
BTW - using HP gain as the logic for installing e-fans is just plain dumb.
The problem I see with the parts stores (AutoZone, etc) is they give you a NA clutch. It's made for the 7 blade NA fan...put a 10 blade turbo fan on it and it doesn't pull air like it should. The shroud needs to be in good shape too or you'll just pull air in from the side instead of through the radiator.
BTW - using HP gain as the logic for installing e-fans is just plain dumb.
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
I have run E fans for years with no problem I now have a ford Taurus fan which cost 50.00 and it is suppose to pull 4500cfms, and I never ever have a cooling issue. I have used Ford Contour fans with out issues, and I prefer them over the Taurus fan becasue they pull less current.
If you get either of these fans, and wire them correctly you will never have a problem with cooling until they fail. They flow more air than stock at idle for sure also.
If you get either of these fans, and wire them correctly you will never have a problem with cooling until they fail. They flow more air than stock at idle for sure also.
most people with issue run the craptacular Flex-A-Lites
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html
they used to call them the 220 series.
A buddy up here did the bigger suckers
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/x-treme.html
more expensive but pull a hell of alot more air.
If you really want to do some air movement. As Quikstrike mentioned, the OEM fans from a same displacement or bigger displacement engine OR
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html
yes there is enough room in the rails for that big a beast..... cost is pretty high and we know what the typical par on course is for prices on parts.
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/low-profile-electric.html
they used to call them the 220 series.
A buddy up here did the bigger suckers
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/x-treme.html
more expensive but pull a hell of alot more air.
If you really want to do some air movement. As Quikstrike mentioned, the OEM fans from a same displacement or bigger displacement engine OR
http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/27inch-electric.html
yes there is enough room in the rails for that big a beast..... cost is pretty high and we know what the typical par on course is for prices on parts.
WhtMa71;1182305 said:
Of course, as was mentioned NOTHING to include electrical fans is free.
Because now, instead of the load being a mechanical load, you are making it an electrical load which means a bigger mechanical load on the Alternator. Being genrous and giving the alternator a 90% efficency at converting the rotation to energy, you are looking at around 3-4hp LOSS from the increased alt load due to inductance.