Everyone else was doing it, so I got my own BHG and made a thread about it!

[Rennat]

i dont know about you but from what i have read old school motors are supposed to use old school oil. because newer motors run higher oil psi so they have no need for thicker oil. old school motors run lower oil psi so 10w40 is better especiallly if it has high mileage. 0w30 and 5w30 is like water too damn thin. except for the german castrol full syn.but i think its just too expensive for a oil change myself.

never been in a v8 have ya? my girlfriends jeep that has a v8 swap, her oil pressure gauge is at 80ish psi on a cold start up... so uhh... its not like there 'low pressure'...

german castrol is pretty cheap compared to redline, and its been on a special sale here lately for the past 2 months...

psi (pressure) = resistance

and why is your 0w30 like water? are you chaning your oil when its 35 degrees outside? cause mine looks like regular oil...

 

[Rennat]

i don't know about you guys, but with my first sup i put 5w30 into it listening to what some people say is better. long story short i got rod knock about couple months later of owning my first supra. then i decide i would call up toyota and have them look up what the motor came with. it came with 20w50 in 1989 and i'm sure thats what it ran on for a majority of its life without issues. until i come in and fuck it up. the car had 170k on it. i assume if it made it almost 20 years on 20w50 just like most other high milage supras why the fuck would you change what toyota designed it to run on. i know i might get burn for this one, but ever since then i run 20w50 gtx and haven't had one problem. i don't baby my car either. just though i would put it out there.

your trying to say that your supra would have been fine with 170k miles on it if you would have kept the same oil in it... im sorry, but your in fantasy land. the fact your supra made it to 170k miles is awesome.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=LU&P=4

they have 3 weights of oil on that chart, 5w30, 10w30, and 10w40... your 20w50 isnt doing the supra any good. and it never came with that stock... toyota was lying to you...

 

[sneakypete]

screw doing the head, if you got milkshake you better replace those bearings! i would hate to see it again... heres the process..

drive
overheat
get bhg
keep driving on bhg and over heat a few more times
get super low on coolant
drive some more
blow the HG so its now leaking into the oil
fix bhg
get rod knock....

its the sad reality... do it right the first time and save yourself the head ache...
and if its been overheated, and i know what you mean by 3/4's of the way up... the head will most likely be warped. even if you did take it off per the TSRM procedure...

exactly!!!
i had made that mistake in my earlier years with my supra..... changed the hg. thought it was fixed. blew a bearing. some bearing fragments past threw my turbo and blew the seals. got another turbo and new motor. it was a big mess
save some money and do it right.
at least check the bearings

 

[bluedragon17]

screw doing the head, if you got milkshake you better replace those bearings! i would hate to see it again... heres the process..

drive
overheat
get bhg
keep driving on bhg and over heat a few more times
get super low on coolant
drive some more
blow the HG so its now leaking into the oil
fix bhg
get rod knock....

its the sad reality... do it right the first time and save yourself the head ache...
and if its been overheated, and i know what you mean by 3/4's of the way up... the head will most likely be warped. even if you did take it off per the TSRM procedure...

This is true. Oh so very true. I blew the headgasket and shut the car off immediately and called a tow truck. Got home did a block test and yep there goes the headgasket!! I checked clearances after everything was done and said and yep those needed replacing. So 10 months later and 15k i have a built NA-T swap with way to much custom work into it. Worth it?? every god damn cent was worth it when I drive her!!!!!!!!!:evil2:

 

[Supraboy89]

all i am sayin is that if you have mileage on your motor. a heavier weight oil wont hurt. plus it will give extra cushioning to the worn berrings.

psi (pressure)= resistance. yeah on the oil pump not the bearings

 

[Rennat]

this is the tech section, not the argue section... run whatever oil you want in your car. i'll stick to whats been proven to do the best job.

(ever think that maybe your motor had other problems? like the oil pump??)

 

[Facime]

We have one of the best oil tech sections of any forum around, you guys should read it sometime instead of speculating on what caused your 170k RK.

Good advice has been given to the OP by several people. It remains to be seen if he takes it. I'll give anyone 2:1 odds he doesnt and ends up with RK within 6mo.

 

[Rennat]

We have one of the best oil tech sections of any forum around, you guys should read it sometime instead of speculating on what caused your 170k RK.

Good advice has been given to the OP by several people. It remains to be seen if he takes it. I'll give anyone 2:1 odds he doesnt and ends up with RK within 6mo.

6 months? damn... i give it like 2 weeks. he drove on that bhg until he got the milkshake of death. and we all know how fast that milkshake goes through the engine... reading the oil thread is one of the best things i ever did.

 

[subjug4tor]

Thanks for all the input guys, looks like Ill be doing the bottom end as well, even if it means i wont be able to drive the car as soon as i wanted. ill call a few shops around here today and get some estimates i guess... i dont want to be doing all this again lol

 

[Facime]

6 months? damn... i give it like 2 weeks. he drove on that bhg until he got the milkshake of death. and we all know how fast that milkshake goes through the engine... reading the oil thread is one of the best things i ever did.

lol, I was hedging my bets and being kind

Thanks for all the input guys, looks like Ill be doing the bottom end as well, even if it means i wont be able to drive the car as soon as i wanted. ill call a few shops around here today and get some estimates i guess... i dont want to be doing all this again lol

Thats one of the smartest things Ive heard on SM in a while. You dont need to go crazy on it, a good stock rebuild, done the right way with good parts should serve you well. If you do the bulk of the heavy labor and have a machine shop do the technical stuff it doesnt have to cost a fortune either.

 

[4U2QUIK]

6 months? damn... i give it like 2 weeks. he drove on that bhg until he got the milkshake of death. and we all know how fast that milkshake goes through the engine... reading the oil thread is one of the best things i ever did.

I'm suprised how many people haven't read the oil thread and then talk like they know what's up. it should be required reading before posting is allowed. lol

 

[subjug4tor]

Okay, heres the pics of what i have so far, as promised:

The car: '87 sexy blue

right after i started

pile of parts on the floor

so THERES my vacuum/boost leak

The engine disassembly so far

The old stock turbo's nasty turbine, putting a 57 trim from driftmotion in when it all goes back together

 

[4U2QUIK]

looks like you have the same pos steering wheel cover on it as I do.

 

[Rennat]

and if your going to pull the block, your gonna want the car on the ground... but it depends on how high your hoist goes.

and you may be right 4u2quik... it does look the same.

 

[Supraboy89]

wow that turbo looks like shit. you might want to invest in a rebuilt or upgraded one

 

[Rennat]

wow that turbo looks like shit. you might want to invest in a rebuilt or upgraded one

he stated right above the pic hes gonna go with a rebuilt 57 trim from DM most likely...

 

[subjug4tor]

i already have the 57 trim in a box in the corner of my room waiting to go in. and thanks for the tip about pulling the block, its up on jackstands now, but ill drop it back down to pull it out.

 

[black89t]

rennat the funny thing about my car is that the temp ranges that 20w50 covers is well below the the coldest temp i'll ever see. and i don't think the dealership was lying to me. there are multiple grades to choose from, so each to his own.

subjub4tor here is a pic of the last time i pulled my motor to give you a idea of a good approach if you cherrypicker doesn't go that high.

 

[subjug4tor]

Well i need some help getting he head off, it seems to be stuck. Ive taken off everything that I need to according to other guides ive seen, and removed all the headbolts, but it still wont lift off the block. it will rock back and forth a little if i grab one side and lift up and down though, so it seems to be loose, it just wont lift up. any ideas?

 

[Rennat]

my guess is you missed a bolt. but... did you take the cams out and everything? or is just like you pulled it out?