EM's 1JZGTE MK3 BUILD HELP ME B4 SIV!!!!

#04

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Sep 7, 2009
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Finallyb00sted;2020998 said:
Ok, so the 2 lines going to the firewall from the condenser can be removed? Which line goes to the firewall for the heater?

hell if your real ambitious you can take the condenser out of the dash and re seal the HVAC assembly....
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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#04;2021007 said:
hell if your real ambitious you can take the condenser out of the dash and re seal the HVAC assembly....

Most likely will haha. That stuff takes up the entire dash!

jdmfreak;2021025 said:
For the heater it's the 2 rubber hoses coming from back of head to the firewall

Ok I'll have to double check that. I only saw one hole in the firewall.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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Getting ready to buy all parts needed and put it back together. I have everything off of the motor except the head, valve covers, oil pan. So how do I plug the A/C lines that go to the bottom of the firewall? Also, can somebody explain the fuel lines to me please? Which is feed? Where does it go? Which is return? Where does it go? I am buying an Aeromotive FPR. Idk where all these fuel lines go. I was told I do not need the fuel dampener since I'll have an FPR?
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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So all the power steering lines are cut from the pump and the ones are the vehicle are missing. So, how do I connect all the Power Steering lines? I can't find a diagram or anything. I purchased the Driftmotion line, but I don't know how to run all of them, pump, reservoir, and rack.
 
Last edited:

miekedmr

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Jul 12, 2005
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You need a high pressure line which is probably what you got from DM. That will go from the PS pump to the rack.
For the return you need either a stock line (which it doesn't sound like you have,) or a 17mmx1.5mm (or something like that, don't assume I'm right there,) adapter to -6AN, which DM also sells. You can then attach an -6AN to 3/8" push lock hose end, run that hose back up to the reservoir. I believe the reservoir fitting is the right size for the 3/8" hose, but again, I'm not 100% certain. Then I think the supply hose from reservoir back to the pump is something big like 7/8".

Key thing there is you have to come up with something that will screw into that oddball 17mm threaded hole in the rack to get a line back to your PS reservoir. If you want to run a cooler (you probably do,) that's the line you'd run it on.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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miekedmr;2022589 said:
You need a high pressure line which is probably what you got from DM. That will go from the PS pump to the rack.
For the return you need either a stock line (which it doesn't sound like you have,) or a 17mmx1.5mm (or something like that, don't assume I'm right there,) adapter to -6AN, which DM also sells. You can then attach an -6AN to 3/8" push lock hose end, run that hose back up to the reservoir. I believe the reservoir fitting is the right size for the 3/8" hose, but again, I'm not 100% certain. Then I think the supply hose from reservoir back to the pump is something big like 7/8".

Key thing there is you have to come up with something that will screw into that oddball 17mm threaded hole in the rack to get a line back to your PS reservoir. If you want to run a cooler (you probably do,) that's the line you'd run it on.

Thank you for the help!
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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I have not touched the car in a week. I still need a few necessary parts. I am going to try and budget out suspension and rims by the end of the year. I'm going to clean up the engine and put it all back together soon. I will then clean up the engine bay and the rest of the car. The transmission is currently on the car, should I remove it and drop the motor in that way? Is it possible to drop it in with just the motor, and bolt the trans to it once it's in? I'm worried about lining it up and the bolts for the bell housing to the trans. Pics soon!

I will not be able to make SIV as intended. I'm very sad about that haha The car will be done by December, which was my original goal. I look forward to meeting everybody next year with my Supra!
 

seoul4korea

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Nov 6, 2008
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Since you didn't get to make it to SIV I would recommend taking your time on cleaning up the engine by and getting things sorted with what ever happenes to be rusted up. Also with that since you have so much taken apart already I would do a search here to see how some people have gone about "tucking" certain items from the engine bay to give it a much cleaner look (Fuse block and random stuff like that).

Also I would pull the tranny and do an inspect and flush, then mount to the motor and drop it in other wise it might be a pain in the ass to line up the engine to the tranny.
 

Finallyb00sted

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seoul4korea;2024712 said:
Since you didn't get to make it to SIV I would recommend taking your time on cleaning up the engine by and getting things sorted with what ever happenes to be rusted up. Also with that since you have so much taken apart already I would do a search here to see how some people have gone about "tucking" certain items from the engine bay to give it a much cleaner look (Fuse block and random stuff like that).

Also I would pull the tranny and do an inspect and flush, then mount to the motor and drop it in other wise it might be a pain in the ass to line up the engine to the tranny.

Thanks man! Good advice! I was thinking about that. I will definitely remove the tranny when I get there. I think I might change my build now haha. i can't make up my mind. I think I may go single to get rid of the stock twins and allllll those lines and crap out of the way.
 

seoul4korea

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Finallyb00sted;2024866 said:
Thanks man! Good advice! I was thinking about that. I will definitely remove the tranny when I get there. I think I might change my build now haha. i can't make up my mind. I think I may go single to get rid of the stock twins and allllll those lines and crap out of the way.

Might as well lol, so here's another thing..... while the motor is out it might be a good time to change your valve stem seals, I can't tell you how easy it would have been with the motor out of the car. That and your back will thank you later.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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seoul4korea;2024874 said:
Might as well lol, so here's another thing..... while the motor is out it might be a good time to change your valve stem seals, I can't tell you how easy it would have been with the motor out of the car. That and your back will thank you later.

I should change the seals?
 

seoul4korea

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Finallyb00sted;2024928 said:
I should change the seals?

The big thing is I think most people change them around 60k miles, when they get old and hard they may not seal right which allows oil to leak past into the cylinders. That's why you might see supra's rolling around with bluish exhaust (then again that could also be from a number of things). I'm just saying your back will thank you later if you go ahead and change them. Having to lean over my car for so long sucked balls. NOW IF you really wanted too you could throw in some cheap power. Just get some usdm turbo cams and have the necks grind down and throw them in. Check shims and your good. I just did that swap myself and it really opens up the top end.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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seoul4korea;2024941 said:
The big thing is I think most people change them around 60k miles, when they get old and hard they may not seal right which allows oil to leak past into the cylinders. That's why you might see supra's rolling around with bluish exhaust (then again that could also be from a number of things). I'm just saying your back will thank you later if you go ahead and change them. Having to lean over my car for so long sucked balls. NOW IF you really wanted too you could throw in some cheap power. Just get some usdm turbo cams and have the necks grind down and throw them in. Check shims and your good. I just did that swap myself and it really opens up the top end.

Ok thanks for the suggestions!
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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Update: I am getting plugs and exhaust manifold studs next week, then the motor goes back together, and the wiring harness back on.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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No not yet. Money set me back. I'll be back on track after taxes. I have tons of pics to post. I just need clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, and misc hose clamps and fuel line and fuel pump. That's pretty much all I need to drop it in. I have to wire the battery cable to the alt once it's dropped in. Sorry I haven't been working on it since money was tight. Goal is a couple months tops from now.
 

Finallyb00sted

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Apr 7, 2014
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status update: still here, had a lot going on haha but I will definitely try to complete this asap. i can't find all my tuning information I had saved :\ I read that with stock twins, blitz sbc id and apexi neo are a good combo. Totally lost that info so I'm hoping that my memory is correct haha. Anyways, making more money at work now, so should be moving along soon. OEM TT with Blitz sbcID, APexi NEO, and Blitz tuned ECU; are the electronics. to be continued.