Electric fan question...

89supra7mgte

New Member
Sep 20, 2009
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colorado
Yeah true on that i have bumped the fan switch down now though so that it comes on at 195 cycles off at 190. gauge stays below 210 now. I would like to keep it as cool as possible and was told in another thread the optimal temp for these cars (what the ecu likes) is between 185 and 200 is that correct, or does it matter? I know you dont want it too cool due to efficiency and not too hot cause well duh....
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
4,238
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Atlanta
boostcraver;1594197 said:
Not really sure if I am "overheating" but according to supraguy's response I am getting to at least 210 degrees for the IIRC to activate the fans. IDK what is the "normal" range for the engine to operate in?

Lol. 'IIRC' is not an abbreviation for a cooling system part- It means "if I recall correctly"- as in, If I recall correctly, the AC fans come on at 210+.
Problem is- I'm not sure if I am recalling correctly. And as JetJock is pointing out- IF you have a good fanclutch, and IF your MHG is sealing properly, and if your T-stat is good, and your block's coolant passages are clear, then the only possible reason that you might be overheating, is that your radiator is clogged up. Many people will tell you that the stock rad is good for plenty of power, and I would agree, assuming a perfect condition stock rad. However, I do think that a large core aftermarket radiator is great insurance for a little more 'headroom' on cooling.
 

boostcraver

Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Louisville, KY
supraguy@aol;1594672 said:
Lol. 'IIRC' is not an abbreviation for a cooling system part- It means "if I recall correctly"- as in, If I recall correctly, the AC fans come on at 210+.
Problem is- I'm not sure if I am recalling correctly. And as JetJock is pointing out- IF you have a good fanclutch, and IF your MHG is sealing properly, and if your T-stat is good, and your block's coolant passages are clear, then the only possible reason that you might be overheating, is that your radiator is clogged up. Many people will tell you that the stock rad is good for plenty of power, and I would agree, assuming a perfect condition stock rad. However, I do think that a large core aftermarket radiator is great insurance for a little more 'headroom' on cooling.

LOL! I'm glad you ccleared that up! Again, I'm not sure I'm overheating. I'm not getting any boilover from the rad overflow tank. The guage is not showing any thing over half way between the c and h indicators and I'm not losing coolant to anywhere visible or invisible. I am just hearing the condensor fans come on from time to time, mostly when creeping through traffic.

---------- Post added at 01:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:29 AM ----------

Bmettie;1594633 said:
^^ Thats what I got and I love it. I also added an extra switched power source going into the ac signal so I could switch them on when I want.

Thanks for the second on the Davies controller. It's between that and the Dakota Digital controller.
 

supraguy@aol

Well-Known Member
Dec 30, 2005
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Atlanta
I say get an aluminum radiator that accepts the OEM fan shroud. It will solve any cooling issues you may have.
If for some reason you're not satisfied, Then go with electric fans and all the wiring, sensors and relays.
: )
 

boostcraver

Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Louisville, KY
supraguy@aol;1596921 said:
I say get an aluminum radiator that accepts the OEM fan shroud. It will solve any cooling issues you may have.
If for some reason you're not satisfied, Then go with electric fans and all the wiring, sensors and relays.
: )

Thanks for the suggestion. Don't have the money for a Koyo rad. so I'm looking at the Mishimoto.
 

boostcraver

Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Louisville, KY
Well, I thought I would update and let everyone know what I did.Thanks to all for the responses and suggestions. I have decided to keep the stock setup and am on my way out the door in a few minutes to pick up my Toyota new radiator, shroud, ac condensor fans (one of the pair on the car has a broken blade), and fan clutch. We'll see if that solves my problem so I can drive my car again.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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www.ebay.com
boostcraver;1602285 said:
Well, I thought I would update and let everyone know what I did.Thanks to all for the responses and suggestions. I have decided to keep the stock setup and am on my way out the door in a few minutes to pick up my Toyota new radiator, shroud, ac condensor fans (one of the pair on the car has a broken blade), and fan clutch. We'll see if that solves my problem so I can drive my car again.

Provided you don't have a mechanical problem from the engine causing excessive heat, you will be fine.

boostcraver;1596861 said:
LOL! I'm glad you ccleared that up! Again, I'm not sure I'm overheating. I'm not getting any boilover from the rad overflow tank. The guage is not showing any thing over half way between the c and h indicators and I'm not losing coolant to anywhere visible or invisible. I am just hearing the condensor fans come on from time to time, mostly when creeping through traffic.


It is supposed to work that way. They are auxillary fans. Your stock radiator could be in sad shape interally, and you need a lot of heat to show it. If you have a new stock radiator, fan clutch, coolant and theromstat, you can't over heat, unless you have a drastic engine problem.
 

boostcraver

Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Louisville, KY
Nick M;1602327 said:
Provided you don't have a mechanical problem from the engine causing excessive heat, you will be fine.



It is supposed to work that way. They are auxillary fans. Your stock radiator could be in sad shape interally, and you need a lot of heat to show it. If you have a new stock radiator, fan clutch, coolant and theromstat, you can't over heat, unless you have a drastic engine problem.

I also bought an Autometer water temp guage so I could have a real temp reading instead of the inexact reading on the stock one. I will update in a few days after I have had some wheel time to see how it acts.
 

IBoughtASupra

New Member
Mar 10, 2009
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Before I sold my Supra, check my signature, I had a Aluminum Radiator, New Fan Clutch, 180 Degree Thermostat, Fan Shroud and Silione Hoses for the upper and lower radiator ports and all silicone heater hoses from Mishimoto.

The heat gauge read below 180*, since it was in increments of two, it read bout 177-178 on hot 95*+ degree days after hard pulls. I am not a fan of electric fans. OEM stuff was designed to run for 24 hours, that is why I don't believe, "Dude electric fans give you a million more horsepower."
 

boostcraver

Member
Mar 13, 2010
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Louisville, KY
IBoughtASupra;1603090 said:
Before I sold my Supra, check my signature, I had a Aluminum Radiator, New Fan Clutch, 180 Degree Thermostat, Fan Shroud and Silione Hoses for the upper and lower radiator ports and all silicone heater hoses from Mishimoto.

The heat gauge read below 180*, since it was in increments of two, it read bout 177-178 on hot 95*+ degree days after hard pulls. I am not a fan of electric fans. OEM stuff was designed to run for 24 hours, that is why I don't believe, "Dude electric fans give you a million more horsepower."

Yeah, the new parts seem to be doing their job quite well as the temp guage is reading a rock solid 190* since they were installed. I was mainly looking to clean up the engine bay and make the engine itself more visible instead of hiding it behind everything hanging off the rad. I know the fans are worth a few horse power but i would rather spend the money on a good DDP:)
 

tekdeus

Pronounced Tek-DAY-us
Jan 23, 2006
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I have a brand new Koyo rad and Flex-a-lite fans that came with my car when I bought it. On hot days with the AC on, it is barely sufficient and the temp does rise. Driving to Las Vegas through the desert at 90mph up a long gradual incline made it overheat. If I was starting over, I'd run the stock fan.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
8,897
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48
U.S.
www.ebay.com
Over the last few days it has been in the upper 90's with the heat index of 110. I bought refridgerant from ebay and fixed my A/C. I have a new OEM radiator, new fan clutch (as in very low miles) OEM working thermostat, and new hoses. With 40 degree discharge temps and driving like an idiot my car never came close to over heat, or rose about that 8 o'clock position like it can when pushed hard. The stock system works very well.