Electric Fan Install...Help

Suprastic

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
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Manitoba
I just bought an electric fan from a 89+ supra from JonoTurbo. Ive done a search on the installs, but cant find a detailed enough wiring diagram. I know I need a rely (what size?), and a few other things. Can someone please point me in the right direction. I wiring diagram would be most helpfull. Its a stock fan to replace my clutch fan on my NA. My rad is also stock, so I think it will work perfectly. Thanks in advance
 

DaSuprawolf

Im SICK of N/A
Dec 29, 2005
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ChicagoLand
I put an aftermarket elec. fan on my 88 N/A and I just wired it to run all the time when the key is on, for most fans its not a problem to run all the time, its only been a couple months but so far so good, as far as hooking it back up to stock, sorry, not sure, but hope this gives you more options.
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
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Van
you need a relay to switch the fan and you need a thermo switch for the desired tempature. IT MUST be above the thermostat tempature to avoid the fans and thermostat fighting. Once you find the desired temp you want the fans to kick in at you buy the thermo switch at that temp. It needs to thread into the thermostat housing and remove one of the pointless sensors already there.

If you need a wire diagram for this such setup i think there is already some available or i can draw one.

essentially the relay switches the +12v to the fan(s) and the thermo switch switches +12v to the relay coil which in turn activates the +12v to the fans. at the desired fixed tempature.
 

CPT Furious

Now MAJ FURY!
Mar 30, 2005
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KDOV
Would you mount the thermo switch pre or post thermostat? When I called Flex-a-lite, they were pretty adamant about mounting it post thermostat, but I was wondering what other people's opinions on the topic are.

It seems to make sense because the thermostat will initially control the temp by cycling open and closed as required and then the fans would only kick in if the thermostat was fully open and the temperature was still rising.
 

jmcboost

New Member
Mar 31, 2005
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Missouri
I hooked one up with the relay triger tapped into the accessory wire. However, the fan is on all the time the car is on. Is this a bad idea, or does it just take longer for the car to heat up?
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
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Van
it would probably take longer to heat up.

And i agree with mounting the thermoswitch after the thermostat IE: on the thermostat housing where there are 3 other thermo sensors
 

Suprastic

New Member
Apr 8, 2005
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would some one be able to supply me with a pic from the TSRM and a drawing of the wiring diagram on it indicating the relays and switches. Thanks for all the help guys
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
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Van
you will be installing a new automotive relay capable of at least 15 amp. as for wiring it up im not able to help now... maybe later
 

bwest

Drafting, not tailgating
May 18, 2005
502
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HippieTown, CA
First off, when setting the temp switch for the fans, do it before the thermo outlet. all water post thermo has heat from the turbo cooling lines, therefor is not a very accurate representation of what actual h2o temp is.

second, get a true fan controller. I got one made by SPAL (see the cooling review for a quick overview, see http://www.spa-usal.com for the real thing). its called the fan-pwm. I have some pics of my install and the user giude @ http://www.gotdiceracing.com/blog

The point of doing things the way i did was two fold:
1. minimize the hit on the electrical system when the fans kicked on. big cooling fans will draw 20-30 amps, no problem. with you lights and heater on, sitting in traffic at idle, having an extra 20-30 amps in overhead in your electrical system doesn't sound realistic.

2. more stable temps. as temp increases, so does the speed of the fan. this is nice to keep things from getting too hot (or too cold) too fast. Keeps the computer from making large tuning adjustments and helps fuel econ.

best part, this can work with their sender or the stock efi temp switch (you'll need some type of temp gauge if you want to mess with the turn-on/ off temps)

Some may disagree and that's ok, but since i installed this fan controller, its a rare day for my fans to ever come on full blast (minimizing wear on the electrical components). My temps run between 180-190 pending what type of driving i do (i have a 195 ford thermostat. PM me for more info on that:sonic: ) with a stock replacement rad.
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
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Van
Bwest, what year contour did you get your fan assy from?

how was fitment? taller / wider than rad or just right or slightly smaller?
 

IHI-RHC7

"The Boss"
Apr 1, 2005
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Oregon
You know, Toyota has an electric fan on every supra, and it has a thermostatic switch for those electric fans. In every supra.
Also, it's mounted post thermostat... in every supra. Just a thought here...
Why not use that switch, which was designed to control electric fans, to control an electric fan?
 

bwest

Drafting, not tailgating
May 18, 2005
502
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0
HippieTown, CA
the efans come from 93-97 (iirc) v6 models. the SVT and SE V6 use the same fan set-up. To make it fit, i needed to cut a little above the lower outlet so the shroud would sit flush. I also drilled two holes in the shroud for mounting to the rad. nothing a dremel and a little time couldn't handle. The fitment is real close, overall maybe an inch narrower. I'll see if i have any pics of the mounts that i used.

IHI- your right there is a switch and it is mounted post thermostat. under no load, it comes on at 215 (i verified with a digital h20 temp gauge set in the stock sender location. there is a good chance this cooler than what that sender was reading). as a safety margin, don't you think it would be a good idea to have an auxillary temp switch (big emphasis on auxillary) taking temp from the are where the h20 is hotest? think of it as anticipating coolant temp (that the ecu sensor or even the motor for that matter) has not seen yet?

secondly, 215 is a little late IMO to start turning on your PRIMARY fans. the temp will continue to rise when the fans first kick on. if your comfortable with that, more power to you, but i'm not.

thirdly, at least when using the fan controller i did, you minimize electrical load changes and temp fluctuations....which is more or less the same thing that the clutch fan does.

one other thing, what was the stock temp for the clutch fan to engage? the times i checked it was always between 200-205, earlier than the stock efan switch - hence (one of) the reason(s) i don't feel that is good advice.

eFan systems can work real well when thought through. Most oe efan systems use multi-speed controllers for all the same reasons i stated above. again, YMMV.
 

boltz

New Member
Jun 17, 2005
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Van
the fan switch for the A/C fan which you are speaking of is similar to what many people use to controll their fans... except for one thing... that thermo switch is trigger too high of a temp. it triggers 100Celcius or 215 or something Ferinheight (not an exact numer i can't remember at the moment what the F rating was)

so just get a switch for like 190 Ferinheight if your thermostat is 180... but check what you have and get the appropriate thermal switch and relay.
 
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SURUKO

making the supra better..
Jan 8, 2007
610
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The tropical island....
did anyone please have a wiring diagram ? im going to use two electric fans 14" two relays and an on off switch the problem is that im used it keep burning fuses im already try 30 amp and 40 amp fuses did anyone please have a wiring diagram that i can use and really work fine ? suggestions
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
9,439
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Old thread but if one goes by flow direction the EFI and gage sensors are pre-thermostat because for proper EFI operation coolant temp must be sensed with the T stat closed. Fwiw a "normal" temperature indication on the dash doesn't mean the T stat is open either. All the 7Ms I've checked will run at idle for a long time with the T stat closed while showing a normal gage indication.
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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www.ebay.com
jetjock said:
Old thread but if one goes by flow direction the EFI sensor is pre-thermostat because for proper EFI operation coolant temp must be sensed with the T stat closed. Fwiw a "normal" temperature indication on the dash doesn't mean the T stat is open. All the 7Ms I've checked will run at idle for a long time with the T stat closed while showing a normal gage indication.

JJ, I read your write up about the radiator testing you did. And I read on Reg Reimers site about radiators that looked good but were clogged and didn't flow worth a damn. Makes me think that a new stock Toyota radiator and cooling system will hold and dissipate much more heat than it is given credit for. I was going to get a new high dollar aftermarket unit, but after reading your test and Reg's findings on old units, I might just get a high dollar factory unit.